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is separated from the weir by a stone wall on the left； or south…
west side。 This pond has two floodgates； the one already
mentioned； which opens into the canal； and another； on the other
side of the stone mound； opening to the lower part of the weir。
Whenever； as a man told me who was standing near； it is necessary
to lay the bed of the canal dry； in the immediate neighbourhood for
the purpose of making repairs； the floodgate to the canal is
closed； and the one to the lower part of the weir is opened； and
then the water from the pond flows into the Dee； whilst a sluice；
near the first lock； lets out the water of the canal into the
river。 The head of the canal is situated in a very beautiful spot。
To the left or south is a lofty hill covered with wood。 To the
right is a beautiful slope or lawn on the top of which is a pretty
villa； to which you can get by a little wooden bridge over the
floodgate of the canal； and indeed forming part of it。 Few things
are so beautiful in their origin as this canal； which； be it known；
with its locks and its aqueducts； the grandest of which last is the
stupendous erection near Stockport； which by…the…bye filled my mind
when a boy with wonder； constitutes the grand work of England； and
yields to nothing in the world of the kind； with the exception of
the great canal of China。
Retracing my steps some way I got upon the river's bank and then
again proceeded in the direction of the west。 I soon came to a
cottage nearly opposite a bridge； which led over the river； not the
bridge which I have already mentioned； but one much smaller； and
considerably higher up the valley。 The cottage had several dusky
outbuildings attached to it； and a paling before it。 Leaning over
the paling in his shirt…sleeves was a dark…faced； short； thickset
man； who saluted me in English。 I returned his salutation；
stopped； and was soon in conversation with him。 I praised the
beauty of the river and its banks： he said that both were
beautiful and delightful in summer； but not at all in winter； for
then the trees and bushes on the banks were stripped of their
leaves； and the river was a frightful torrent。 He asked me if I
had been to see the place called the Robber's Leap； as strangers
generally went to see it。 I inquired where it was。
〃Yonder；〃 said he； pointing to some distance down the river。
〃Why is it called the Robber's Leap？〃 said I。
〃It is called the Robber's Leap； or Llam y Lleidyr；〃 said he；
〃because a thief pursued by justice once leaped across the river
there and escaped。 It was an awful leap； and he well deserved to
escape after taking it。〃 I told him that I should go and look at
it on some future opportunity； and then asked if there were many
fish in the river。 He said there were plenty of salmon and trout；
and that owing to the river being tolerably high； a good many had
been caught during the last few days。 I asked him who enjoyed the
right of fishing in the river。 He said that in these parts the
fishing belonged to two or three proprietors； who either preserved
the fishing for themselves； as they best could by means of keepers；
or let it out to other people； and that many individuals came not
only from England； but from France and Germany and even Russia for
the purpose of fishing； and that the keepers of the proprietors
from whom they purchased permission to fish； went with them； to
show them the best places； and to teach them how to fish。 He added
that there was a report that the river would shortly be rhydd or
free and open to any one。 I said that it would be a bad thing to
fling the river open； as in that event the fish would be killed at
all times and seasons； and eventually all destroyed。 He replied
that he questioned whether more fish would be taken then than now；
and that I must not imagine that the fish were much protected by
what was called preserving； that the people to whom the lands in
the neighbourhood belonged； and those who paid for fishing did not
catch a hundredth part of the fish which were caught in the river：
that the proprietors went with their keepers； and perhaps caught
two or three stone of fish； or that strangers went with the
keepers； whom they paid for teaching them how to fish； and perhaps
caught half…a…dozen fish； and that shortly after the keepers would
return and catch on their own account sixty stone of fish from the
very spot where the proprietors or strangers had great difficulty
in catching two or three stone or the half…dozen fish； or the
poachers would go and catch a yet greater quantity。 He added that
gentry did not understand how to catch fish； and that to attempt to
preserve was nonsense。 I told him that if the river was flung open
everybody would fish； he said that I was much mistaken； that
hundreds who were now poachers； would then keep at home； mind their
proper trades； and never use line or spear； that folks always
longed to do what they were forbidden； and that Shimei would never
have crossed the brook provided he had not been told he should be
hanged if he did。 That he himself had permission to fish in the
river whenever he pleased； but never availed himself of it； though
in his young time； when he had no leave； he had been an arrant
poacher。
The manners and way of speaking of this old personage put me very
much in mind of those of Morgan； described by Smollett in his
immortal novel of 〃Roderick Random。〃 I had more discourse with
him： I asked him in what line of business he was； he told me that
he sold coals。 From his complexion； and the hue of his shirt； I
had already concluded that he was in some grimy trade。 I then
inquired of what religion he was； and received for answer that he
was a Baptist。 I thought that both himself and part of his apparel
would look all the better for a good immersion。 We talked of the
war then raging … he said it was between the false prophet and the
Dragon。 I asked him who the Dragon was … he said the Turk。 I told
him that the Pope was far worse than either the Turk or the
Russian； that his religion was the vilest idolatry； and that he
would let no one alone。 That it was the Pope who drove his fellow
religionists the Anabaptists out of the Netherlands。 He asked me
how long ago that was。 Between two and three hundred years I
replied。 He asked me the meaning of the word Anabaptist； I told
him； whereupon he expressed great admiration for my understanding；
and said that he hoped he should see me again。
I inquired of him to what place the bridge led； he told me that if
I passed over it； and ascended a high bank beyond； I should find
myself on the road from Llangollen to Corwen and that if I wanted
to go to Llangollen I must turn to the left。 I thanked him； and
passing over the bridge； and ascending the bank； found myself upon
a broad road。 I turned to the left； and walking briskly in about
half an hour reached our cottage in the northern suburb； where I
found my family and dinner awaiting me。
CHAPTER IX
The Dinner … English Foibles … Pengwern … The Yew…Tree … Carn…
Lleidyr …