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moory hillocks were all about me of a wretched russet colour； on my
left； on the very crest of the hill up which I had so long been
toiling； stood a black pyramid of turf； a pole on the top of it。
The road now wore nearly due west down a steep descent。 Arran was
slightly to the north of me。 I； however； soon lost sight of it； as
I went down the farther side of the hill； which lies over against
it to the south…east。 The sun； now descending； began to shine out。
The pass down which I was now going was yet wilder than the one up
which I had lately come。 Close on my right was the steep hill's
side out of which the road or path had been cut； which was here and
there overhung by crags of wondrous forms； on my left was a very
deep glen； beyond which was a black； precipitous； rocky wall； from
a chasm near the top of which tumbled with a rushing sound a
slender brook； seemingly the commencement of a mountain stream；
which hurried into a valley far below towards the west。 When
nearly at the bottom of the descent I stood still to look around
me。 Grand and wild was the scenery。 On my left were noble green
hills； the tops of which were beautifully gilded by the rays of the
setting sun。 On my right a black； gloomy； narrow valley or glen
showed itself； two enormous craggy hills of immense altitude； one
to the west and the other to the east of the entrance； that to the
east terminating in a peak。 The background to the north was a wall
of rocks forming a semicircle； something like a bent bow with the
head downward； behind this bow； just in the middle； rose the black
loaf of Arran。 A torrent tumbled from the lower part of the
semicircle； and after running for some distance to the south turned
to the west； the way I was going。
Observing a house a little way within the gloomy vale I went
towards it； in the hope of finding somebody in it who could give me
information respecting this wild locality。 As I drew near the door
two tall men came forth； one about sixty； and the other about half
that age。 The elder had a sharp； keen look； the younger a lumpy
and a stupid one。 They were dressed like farmers。 On my saluting
them in English the elder returned my salutation in that tongue；
but in rather a gruff tone。 The younger turned away his head and
said nothing。
〃What is the name of this house？〃 said I； pointing to the building。
〃The name of it；〃 said the old man； 〃is Ty Mawr。〃
〃Do you live in it？〃 said I。
〃Yes； I live in it。〃
〃What waterfall is that？〃 said I； pointing to the torrent tumbling
down the crag at the farther end of the gloomy vale。
〃The fountain of the Royal Dyfi。〃
〃Why do you call the Dyfy royal？〃 said I。
〃Because it is the king of the rivers in these parts。〃
〃Does the fountain come out of a rock？〃
〃It does not； it comes out of a lake； a llyn。〃
〃Where is the llyn？〃
〃Over that crag at the foot of Aran Vawr。〃
〃Is it a large lake？〃
〃It is not； it is small。〃
〃Deep？〃
〃Very。〃
〃Strange things in it？〃
〃I believe there are strange things in it。〃 His English now became
broken。
〃Crocodiles？〃
〃I do not know what cracadailes be。〃
〃Efync？〃
〃Ah！ No； I do not tink there be efync dere。 Hu Gadarn in de old
time kill de efync dere and in all de lakes in Wales。 He draw them
out of the water with his ychain banog his humpty oxen； and when he
get dem out he burn deir bodies on de fire； he good man for dat。〃
〃What do you call this allt？〃 said I； looking up to the high
pinnacled hill on my right。
〃I call that Tap Nyth yr Eryri。〃
〃Is not that the top nest of the eagles？〃
〃I believe it is。 Ha！ I see you understand Welsh。〃
〃A little；〃 said I。 〃Are there eagles there now？〃
〃No； no eagle now。〃
〃Gone like avanc？〃
〃Yes； gone like avanc； but not so long。 My father see eagle on Tap
Nyth； but my father never see avanc in de llyn。〃
〃How far to Dinas？〃
〃About three mile。〃
〃Any thieves about？〃
〃No； no thieves here； but what come from England；〃 and he looked at
me with a strange； grim smile。
〃What is become of the red…haired robbers of Mawddwy？〃
〃Ah；〃 said the old man； staring at me； 〃I see you are a Cumro。 The
red…haired thieves of Mawddwy！ I see you are from these parts。〃
〃What's become of them？〃
〃Oh； dead； hung。 Lived long time ago； long before eagle left Tap
Nyth。〃
He spoke true。 The red…haired banditti of Mawddwy were
exterminated long before the conclusion of the sixteenth century；
after having long been the terror not only of these wild regions
but of the greater part of North Wales。 They were called the red…
haired banditti because certain leading individuals amongst them
had red foxy hair。
〃Is that young man your son？〃 said I； after a little pause。
〃Yes； he my son。〃
〃Has he any English？〃
〃No； he no English； but he plenty of Welsh … that is if he see
reason。〃
I spoke to the young man in Welsh； asking him if he had ever been
up to the Tap Nyth； but he made no answer。
〃He no care for your question；〃 said the old man； 〃ask him price of
pig。〃 I asked the young fellow the price of hogs； whereupon his
face brightened up； and he not only answered my question； but told
me that he had fat hog to sell。 〃Ha； ha；〃 said the old man； 〃he
plenty of Welsh now； for he see reason。 To other question he no
Welsh at all； no more than English； for he see no reason。 What
business he on Tap Nyth with eagle？ His business down below in sty
with pig。 Ah； he look lump； but he no fool； know more about pig
than you or I； or any one 'twixt here and Mahuncleth。〃
He now asked me where I came from； and on my telling him from Bala；
his heart appeared to warm towards me； and saying that I must be
tired； he asked me to step in and drink buttermilk； but I declined
his offer with thanks； and bidding the two adieu； returned to the
road。
I hurried along and soon reached a valley which abounded with trees
and grass； I crossed a bridge over a brook； not what the old man
had called the Dyfi； but the stream whose source I had seen high up
the bwlch； and presently came to a place where the two waters
joined。 Just below the confluence on a fallen tree was seated a
man decently dressed； his eyes were fixed on the rushing stream。 I
stopped and spoke to him。
He had no English； but I found him a very sensible man。 I talked
to him about the source of the Dyfi。 He said it was a disputed
point which was the source。 He himself was inclined to believe
that it was the Pistyll up the bwlch。 I asked him of what religion
he was。 He said he was of the Church of England； which was the
Church of his father and his grandfather； and which he believed to
be the only true Church。 I inquired if it flourished。 He said it
did； but that it was dreadfully persecuted by all classes of
dissenters； who； though they were continually quarrelling with one
another； agreed in one thing； namely； to persecute the Church。 I
asked him if he ever read。 He said he read a great deal；
especially the works of Huw Morris； and that reading them had given
him a love for the sights of nature。 He added that his greatest