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people to the supper。 After the sermon there was a gathering for
the poor。
As I returned to the inn I had a good deal of conversation with the
landlord on religious subjects。 He told me that the Church of
England； which for a long time had been a down…trodden Church in
Wales； had of late begun to raise its head； and chiefly owing to
the zeal and activity of its present ministers； that the former
ministers of the Church were good men； but had not energy enough to
suit the times in which they lived； that the present ministers
fought the Methodist preachers with their own weapons； namely；
extemporary preaching； and beat them； winning shoals from their
congregations。 He seemed to think that the time was not far
distant when the Anglican Church would be the popular as well as
the established Church of Wales。
Finding myself rather dull in the inn； I went out again；
notwithstanding that it rained。 I ascended the toman or mound
which I had visited on a former occasion。 Nothing could be more
desolate and dreary than the scene around。 The woods were stripped
of their verdure and the hills were half shrouded in mist。 How
unlike was this scene to the smiling； glorious prospect which had
greeted my eyes a few months before。 The rain coming down with
redoubled violence； I was soon glad to descend and regain the inn。
Shortly before dinner I was visited by the landlady； a fine tall
woman of about fifty； with considerable remains of beauty in her
countenance。 She came to ask me if I was comfortable。 I told her
that it was my own fault if I was not。 We were soon in very
friendly discourse。 I asked her her maiden name。
〃Owen；〃 said she； laughing； 〃which； after my present name of Jones；
is the most common name in Wales。〃
〃They were both one and the same originally；〃 said I； 〃Owen and
Jones both mean John。〃
She too was a staunch member of the Church of England； which she
said was the only true Church。 She spoke in terms of high respect
and admiration of her minister； and said that a new church was
being built； the old one not being large enough to accommodate the
numbers who thronged to hear him。
I had a noble goose for dinner； to which I did ample justice。
About four o'clock； the weather having cleared up； I took a stroll。
It was a beautiful evening； though rain clouds still hovered about。
I wandered to the northern end of Llyn Tegid； which I had passed in
the preceding evening。 The wind was blowing from the south； and
tiny waves were beating against the shore； which consisted of small
brown pebbles。 The lake has certainly not its name； which
signifies Lake of Beauty； for nothing。 It is a beautiful sheet of
water； and beautifully situated。 It is oblong and about six miles
in length。 On all sides； except to the north； it is bounded by
hills。 Those at the southern end are very lofty； the tallest of
which is Arran； which lifts its head to the clouds like a huge
loaf。 As I wandered on the strand I thought of a certain British
prince and poet； who in the very old time sought a refuge in the
vicinity of the lake from the rage of the Saxons。 His name was
Llewarch Hen； of whom I will now say a few words。
Llewarch Hen； or Llewarch the Aged； was born about the commencement
of the sixth and died about the middle of the seventh century；
having attained to the prodigious age of one hundred and forty or
fifty years； which is perhaps the lot of about forty individuals in
the course of a millennium。 If he was remarkable for his years he
was no less so for the number of his misfortunes。 He was one of
the princes of the Cumbrian Britons； but Cumbria was invaded by the
Saxons； and a scene of horrid war ensued。 Llewarch and his sons；
of whom he had twenty…four； put themselves at the head of their
forces； and in conjunction with the other Cumbrian princes made a
brave but fruitless opposition to the invaders。 Most of his sons
were slain； and he himself with the remainder sought shelter in
Powys； in the hall of Cynddylan； its prince。 But the Saxon bills
and bows found their way to Powys too。 Cynddylan was slain； and
with him the last of the sons of Llewarch； who； reft of his
protector； retired to a hut by the side of the lake of Bala； where
he lived the life of a recluse； and composed elegies on his sons
and slaughtered friends； and on his old age； all of which abound
with so much simplicity and pathos that the heart of him must be
hard indeed who can read them unmoved。 Whilst a prince he was
revered for his wisdom and equity； and he is said in one of the
historical triads to have been one of the three consulting warriors
of Arthur。
In the evening I attended service in the old church at Bala。 The
interior of the edifice was remarkably plain； no ornament of any
kind was distinguishable； the congregation was overflowing； amongst
whom I observed the innkeeper and his wife； the little freckled
maid and the boots。 The entire service was in Welsh。 Next to the
pew in which I sat was one filled with young singing women； all of
whom seemed to have voices of wonderful power。 The prayers were
read by a strapping young curate at least six feet high。 The
sermon was preached by the rector； and was a continuation of the
one which I had heard him preach in the morning。 It was a very
comforting discourse； as the preacher clearly proved that every
sinner will be pardoned who comes to Jesus。 I was particularly
struck with one part。 The preacher said that Jesus' arms being
stretched out upon the cross was emblematic of His surprising love
and His willingness to receive anybody。 The service concluded with
the noble anthem Teyrnasa Jesu Mawr； 〃May Mighty Jesus reign！〃
The service over I returned to the parlour of the inn。 There I sat
for a long…time； lone and solitary； staring at the fire in the
grate。 I was the only guest in the house； a great silence
prevailed both within and without； sometimes five minutes elapsed
without my hearing a sound； and then； perhaps； the silence would be
broken by a footstep at a distance in the street。 At length；
finding myself yawning； I determined to go to bed。 The freckled
maid as she lighted me to my room inquired how I liked the sermon。
〃Very much；〃 said I。 〃Ah；〃 said she； 〃did I not tell you that Mr
Pugh was a capital preacher？〃 She then asked me how I liked the
singing of the gals who sat in the next pew to mine。 I told her
that I liked it exceedingly。 〃Ah；〃 said she； 〃them gals have the
best voices in Bala。 They were once Methody gals； and sang in the
chapels； but were converted； and are now as good Church as myself。
Them gals have been the cause of a great many convarsions； for all
the young fellows of their acquaintance amongst the Methodists … 〃
〃Follow them to church；〃 said I； 〃and in time become converted。
That's a thing of course。 If the Church gets the girls she is
quite sure of the fellows。〃
CHAPTER LXXIV
Proceed on Journey … The Lad and Dog … Old Bala … The Pass …
Extensive View … The Two Men … The Tap Nyth … The Meeting of the
Waters … The Wild Valley