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exceeds them all in altitude and beauty； though it is inferior to
several of them in the volume of its flood。 I never saw water
falling so gracefully； so much like thin beautiful threads； as
here。 Yet even this cataract has its blemish。 What beautiful
object has not something which more or less mars its loveliness？
There is an ugly black bridge or semi…circle of rock； about two
feet in diameter and about twenty feet high； which rises some
little way below it； and under which the water； after reaching the
bottom； passes； which intercepts the sight； and prevents it from
taking in the whole fall at once。 This unsightly object has stood
where it now stands since the day of creation； and will probably
remain there to the day of judgment。 It would be a desecration of
nature to remove it by art； but no one could regret if nature in
one of her floods were to sweep it away。
As I was standing on the planks a woman plainly but neatly dressed
came from the house。 She addressed me in very imperfect English；
saying that she was the mistress of the house and should be happy
to show me about。 I thanked her for her offer； and told her that
she might speak Welsh； whereupon she looked glad； and said in that
tongue that she could speak Welsh much better than Saesneg。 She
took me by a winding path up a steep bank on the southern side of
the fall to a small plateau； and told me that was the best place to
see the Pistyll from。 I did not think so； for we were now so near
that we were almost blinded by the spray； though； it is true； the
semicircle of rock no longer impeded the sight； this object we now
saw nearly laterally rising up like a spectral arch； spray and foam
above it； and water rushing below。 〃That is a bridge rather for
ysprydoedd （9） to pass over than men；〃 said I。
〃It is；〃 said the woman； 〃but I once saw a man pass over it。〃
〃How did he get up？〃 said I。 〃The sides are quite steep and
slippery。〃
〃He wriggled to the sides like a llysowen； （10） till he got to the
top； when he stood upright for a minute； and then slid down on the
other side。〃
〃Was he any one from these parts？〃 said I。
〃He was not。 He was a dyn dieithr； a Russian； one of those with
whom we are now at war。〃
〃Was there as much water tumbling then as now？〃
〃More； for there had fallen more rain。〃
〃I suppose the torrent is sometimes very dreadful？〃 said I。
〃It is indeed； especially in winter； for it is then like a sea； and
roars like thunder or a mad bull。〃
After I had seen all I wished of the cataract； the woman asked me
to come to the house and take some refreshment。 I followed her to
a neat little room where she made me sit down and handed me a bowl
of butter…milk。 On the table was a book in which she told me it
was customary for individuals who visited the cataract to insert
their names。 I took up the book which contained a number of names
mingled here and there with pieces of poetry。 Amongst these
compositions was a Welsh englyn on the Rhyadr； which； though
incorrect in its prosody； I thought stirring and grand。 I copied
it； and subjoin it with a translation which I made on the spot。
〃Crychiawg； ewynawg anian … yw y Rhyadr
Yn rhuo mal taran；
Colofn o dwr； gloyw…dwr glan；
Gorwyllt； un lliw ag arian。〃
Foaming and frothing from mountainous height；
Roaring like thunder the Rhyadr falls；
Though its silvery splendour the eye may delight；
Its fury the heart of the bravest appals。
CHAPTER LXXI
Wild Moors … The Guide … Scientific Discourse … The Land of Arthur
… The Umbrella … Arrival at Bala。
WHEN I had rested myself and finished the buttermilk； I got up； and
making the good woman a small compensation for her civility；
inquired if I could get to Bala without returning to Llan Rhyadr。
〃Oh yes；〃 said she； 〃if you cross the hills for about five miles
you will find yourself upon a road which will take you straight to
Bala。〃
〃Is there anyone here；〃 said I； 〃who will guide me over the hills；
provided I pay him for his trouble？〃
〃Oh yes；〃 said she； 〃I know one who will be happy to guide you
whether you pay him or not。〃
She went out and presently returned with a man about thirty…five；
stout and well…looking； and dressed in a waggoner's frock。
〃There；〃 said she； 〃this is the man to show you over the hills； few
know the paths better。〃
I thanked her； and telling the man I was ready； bade him lead the
way。 We set out； the two dogs of which I have spoken attending us；
and seemingly very glad to go。 We ascended the side of the hog…
backed hill to the north of the Rhyadr。 We were about twenty
minutes in getting to the top； close to which stood a stone or
piece of rock； very much resembling a church altar； and about the
size of one。 We were now on an extensive moory elevation； having
the brook which forms the Rhyadr a little way on our left。 We went
nearly due west； following no path； for path there was none； but
keeping near the brook。 Sometimes we crossed water…courses which
emptied their tribute into the brook； and every now and then
ascended and descended hillocks covered with gorse and whin。 After
a little time I entered into conversation with my guide。 He had
not a word of English。
〃Are you married？〃 said I。
〃In truth I am； sir。〃
〃What family have you？〃
〃I have a daughter。〃
〃Where do you live？〃
〃At the house of the Rhyadr。〃
〃I suppose you live there as servant？〃
〃No； sir； I live there as master。〃
〃Is the good woman I saw there your wife？〃
〃In truth； sir； she is。〃
〃And the young girl I saw your daughter？〃
〃Yes； sir； she is my daughter。〃
〃And how came the good woman not to tell me you were her husband？〃
〃I suppose； sir； you did not ask who I was； and she thought you did
not care to know。〃
〃But can you be spared from home？〃
〃Oh yes； sir； I was not wanted at home。〃
〃What business are you？〃
〃I am a farmer； sir。〃
〃A sheep farmer？〃
〃Yes； sir。〃
〃Who is your landlord。〃
〃Sir Watkin。〃
〃Well； it was very kind of you to come with me。〃
〃Not at all； sir； I was glad to come with you； for we are very
lonesome at Rhyadr； except during a few weeks in the summer； when
the gentry come to see the Pistyll。 Moreover； I have sheep lying
about here which need to be looked at now and then； and by coming
hither with you I shall have an opportunity of seeing them。〃
We frequently passed sheep feeding together in small numbers。 In
two or three instances my guide singled out individuals； caught
them； and placing their heads between his knees examined the
insides of their eyelids； in order to learn by their colour whether
or not they were infected with the pwd or moor disorder。 We had
some discourse about that malady。 At last he asked me if there was
a remedy for it。
〃Oh yes；〃 said I； 〃a decoction of hoarhound。〃
〃What is hoarhound？〃 said he。
〃Llwyd y Cwn；〃 said I。 〃Pour some of that down the sheep's throat
twice a day； by means of a horn； and the sheep will recover； for
the bitterness； do you see； will destroy the worm （11） in the
liver； which learned men say is the cause of the disorde