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presented something in the form of a cross。 I soon found the clerk
what his countenance represented him to be； a highly intelligent
person。 His answers to my questions were in general ready and
satisfactory。
〃This seems rather an ancient edifice；〃 said I； 〃when was it
built？〃
〃In the sixteenth century；〃 said the clerk； 〃in the days of Harry
Tudor。〃
〃Have any remarkable men been clergymen of this church？〃
〃Several； sir； amongst its vicars was Doctor William Morgan； the
great South Welshman； the author of the old Welsh version of the
Bible； who flourished in the time of Queen Elizabeth。 Then there
was Doctor Robert South； an eminent divine； who； though not a
Welshman； spoke and preached Welsh better than many of the native
clergy。 Then there was the last vicar； Walter D…； a great preacher
and writer； who styled himself in print Gwalter Mechain。〃
〃Are Morgan and South buried here？〃 said I。
〃They are not； sir；〃 said the clerk； 〃they had been transferred to
other benefices before they died。〃
I did not inquire whether Walter D… was buried there； for of him I
had never heard before； but demanded whether the church possessed
any ancient monuments。
〃This is the oldest which remains； sir；〃 said the clerk； and he
pointed with his finger to a tablet…stone over a little dark pew on
the right side of the oriel window。 There was an inscription upon
it； but owing to the darkness I could not make out a letter。 The
clerk； however； read as follows。
1694。 21 Octr。
Hic Sepultus Est
Sidneus Bynner。
〃Do you understand Latin？〃 said I to the clerk。
〃I do not； sir； I believe； however； that the stone is to the memory
of one Bynner。〃
〃That is not a Welsh name；〃 said I。
〃It is not； sir；〃 said the clerk。
〃It seems to be radically the same as Bonner；〃 said I； 〃the name of
the horrible Popish Bishop of London in Mary's time。 Do any people
of the name of Bynner reside in this neighbourhood at present？〃
〃None； sir；〃 said the clerk； 〃and if the Bynners are descendants of
Bonner； it is； perhaps； well that there are none。〃
I made the clerk； who appeared almost fit to be a clergyman； a
small present； and returned to the inn。 After paying my bill I
flung my satchel over my shoulder； took my umbrella by the middle
in my right hand； and set off for the Rhyadr。
I entered the narrow glen at the western extremity of the town and
proceeded briskly along。 The scenery was romantically beautiful；
on my left was the little brook； the waters of which run through
the town； beyond it a lofty hill； on my right was a hill covered
with wood from the top to the bottom。 I enjoyed the scene； and
should have enjoyed it more had there been a little sunshine to
gild it。
I passed through a small village； the name of which I think was
Cynmen； and presently overtook a man and boy。 The man saluted me
in English； and I entered into conversation with him in that
language。 He told me that he came from Llan Gedwin； and was going
to a place called Gwern something； in order to fetch home some
sheep。 After a time he asked me where I was going。
〃I am going to see the Pistyll Rhyadr；〃 said I
We had then just come to the top of a rising ground。
〃Yonder's the Pistyll！〃 said he； pointing to the west。
I looked in the direction of his finger； and saw something at a
great distance； which looked like a strip of grey linen hanging
over a crag。
〃That is the waterfall；〃 he continued； 〃which so many of the Saxons
come to see。 And now I must bid you good…bye； master； for my way
to the Gwern is on the right〃
Then followed by the boy he turned aside into a wild road at the
corner of a savage； precipitous rock。
CHAPTER LXX
Mountain Scenery … The Rhyadr … Wonderful Feat。
AFTER walking about a mile with the cataract always in sight； I
emerged from the glen into an oblong valley extending from south to
north； having lofty hills on all sides； especially on the west；
from which direction the cataract comes。 I advanced across the
vale till within a furlong of this object； when I was stopped by a
deep hollow or nether vale into which the waters of the cataract
tumble。 On the side of this hollow I sat down； and gazed down
before me and on either side。 The water comes spouting over a crag
of perhaps two hundred feet in altitude between two hills； one
south…east and the other nearly north。 The southern hill is wooded
from the top； nearly down to where the cataract bursts forth； and
so； but not so thickly； is the northern hill； which bears a
singular resemblance to a hog's back。 Groves of pine are on the
lower parts of both； in front of a grove low down on the northern
hill is a small white house of a picturesque appearance。 The water
of the cataract； after reaching the bottom of the precipice； rushes
in a narrow brook down the vale in the direction of Llan Rhyadr。
To the north…east； between the hog…backed hill and another strange…
looking mountain； is a wild glen； from which comes a brook to swell
the waters discharged by the Rhyadr。 The south…west side of the
vale is steep； and from a cleft of a hill in that quarter a slender
stream rushing impetuously joins the brook of the Rhyadr； like the
rill of the northern glen。 The principal object of the whole is of
course the Rhyadr。 What shall I liken it to？ I scarcely know；
unless to an immense skein of silk agitated and disturbed by
tempestuous blasts； or to the long tail of a grey courser at
furious speed。 Through the profusion of long silvery threads or
hairs； or what looked such； I could here and there see the black
sides of the crag down which the Rhyadr precipitated itself with
something between a boom and a roar。
After sitting on the verge of the hollow for a considerable time I
got up； and directed my course towards the house in front of the
grove。 I turned down the path which brought me to the brook which
runs from the northern glen into the waters discharged by the
Rhyadr； and crossing it by stepping…stones； found myself on the
lowest spur of the hog…backed hill。 A steep path led towards the
house。 As I drew near two handsome dogs came rushing to welcome
the stranger。 Coming to a door on the northern side of the house I
tapped； and a handsome girl of about thirteen making her
appearance； I inquired in English the nearest way the waterfall；
she smiled； and in her native language said that she had no Saxon。
On my telling her in Welsh that I was come to see the Pistyll she
smiled again； and said that I was welcome； then taking me round the
house； she pointed to a path and bade me follow it。 I followed the
path which led downward to a tiny bridge of planks； a little way
below the fall。 I advanced to the middle of the bridge； then
turning to the west； looked at the wonderful object before me。
There are many remarkable cataracts in Britain and the neighbouring
isles； even the little Celtic Isle of Man has its remarkable
waterfall； but this Rhyadr； the grand cataract of North Wales； far
exceeds them all in altitude and beauty； though it is inferior to
several of them in