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would talk Welsh in that manner？ It's nearly as bad as your
English。〃
I asked him if he had ever been in South Wales。
〃Yes；〃 said he； 〃and a bad country I found it； just like the
people。〃
〃If you take me for a South Welshman；〃 said I； 〃you ought to speak
civilly both of the South Welsh and their country。〃
〃I am merely paying tit for tat；〃 said the old fellow。 〃When I was
in South Wales your people laughed at my folks and country； so when
I meet one of them here I serve him out as I was served out there。〃
I made no reply to him； but addressing myself to the landlord
inquired whether Huw Morris was not buried in Llan Silin
churchyard。 He replied in the affirmative。
〃I should like to see his tomb；〃 said I。
〃Well； sir；〃 said the landlord； 〃I shall be happy to show it to you
whenever you please。〃
Here again the old fellow put in his word。
〃You never had a prydydd like Huw Morris in South Wales；〃 said he；
〃nor Twm o'r Nant either。〃
〃South Wales has produced good poets；〃 said I。
〃No； it hasn't；〃 said the old fellow； 〃it never produced one。 If
it had； you wouldn't have needed to come here to see the grave of a
poet； you would have found one at home。〃
As he said these words he got up； took his stick； and seemed about
to depart。 Just then in burst a rabble rout of game…keepers and
river…watchers who had come from the petty sessions； and were in
high glee； the two poachers whom the landlord had mentioned having
been convicted and heavily fined。 Two or three of them were
particularly boisterous； running against some of the guests who
were sitting or standing in the kitchen； and pushing the landlord
about； crying at the same time that they would stand by Sir Watkin
to the last； and would never see him plundered。 One of them； a
fellow of about thirty； in a hairy cap； black coat； dirty yellow
breeches； and dirty white top…boots； who was the most obstreperous
of them all； at last came up to the old chap who disliked South
Welshmen and tried to knock off his hat； swearing that he would
stand by Sir Watkin； he； however； met a Tartar。 The enemy of the
South Welsh； like all crusty people； had lots of mettle； and with
the stick which he held in his hand forthwith aimed a blow at the
fellow's poll； which； had he not jumped back； would probably have
broken it。
〃I will not be insulted by you； you vagabond；〃 said the old chap；
〃nor by Sir Watkin either； go and tell him so。〃
The fellow looked sheepish； and turning away proceeded to take
liberties with other people less dangerous to meddle with than old
crabstick。 He； however； soon desisted； and sat down evidently
disconcerted。
〃Were you ever worse treated in South Wales by the people there
than you have been here by your own countrymen？〃 said I to the old
fellow。
〃My countrymen？〃 said he； 〃this scamp is no countryman of mine； nor
is one of the whole kit。 They are all from Wrexham； a mixture of
broken housekeepers and fellows too stupid to learn a trade； a set
of scamps fit for nothing in the world but to swear bodily against
honest men。 They say they will stand up for Sir Watkin； and so
they will； but only in a box in the Court to give false evidence。
They won't fight for him on the banks of the river。 Countrymen of
mine； indeed！ they are no countrymen of mine； they are from
Wrexham； where the people speak neither English nor Welsh； not even
South Welsh as you do。〃
Then giving a kind of flourish with his stick he departed。
CHAPTER LXVIII
Llan Silin Church … Tomb of Huw Morris … Barbara and Richard …
Welsh Country Clergyman … The Swearing Lad … Anglo…Saxon Devils。
HAVING discussed my ale I asked the landlord if he would show me
the grave of Huw Morris。 〃With pleasure； sir；〃 said he； 〃pray
follow me。〃 He led me to the churchyard； in which several enormous
yew trees were standing； probably of an antiquity which reached as
far back as the days of Henry the Eighth； when the yew bow was
still the favourite weapon of the men of Britain。 The church
fronts the south； the portico being in that direction。 The body of
the sacred edifice is ancient； but the steeple which bears a gilded
cock on its top is modern。 The innkeeper led me directly up to the
southern wall； then pointing to a broad discoloured slab； which lay
on the ground just outside the wall； about midway between the
portico and the oriel end； he said：
〃Underneath this stone lies Huw Morris； sir。〃 Forthwith taking off
my hat I went down on my knees and kissed the cold slab covering
the cold remains of the mighty Huw； and then； still on my knees；
proceeded to examine it attentively。 It is covered over with
letters three parts defaced。 All I could make out of the
inscription was the date of the poet's death； 1709。 〃A great
genius； a very great genius； sir；〃 said the inn…keeper； after I had
got on my feet and put on my hat。
〃He was indeed；〃 said I； 〃are you acquainted with his poetry？〃
〃Oh yes；〃 said the innkeeper； and then repeated the four lines
composed by the poet shortly before his death； which I had heard
the intoxicated stonemason repeat in the public…house of the Pandy；
the day I went to visit the poet's residence with John Jones。
〃Do you know any more of Huw's poetry？〃 said I。
〃No；〃 said the innkeeper。 〃Those lines； however； I have known ever
since I was a child and repeated them； more particularly of late
since age has come upon me and I have felt that I cannot last
long。〃
It is very odd how few of the verses of great poets are in people's
mouths。 Not more than a dozen of Shakespear's lines are in
people's mouths： of those of Pope not more than half that number。
Of Addison's poetry two or three lines may be in people's mouths；
though I never heard one quoted； the only line which I ever heard
quoted as Addison's not being his but Garth's：
〃'Tis best repenting in a coach and six。'
Whilst of the verses of Huw Morris I never knew any one but myself；
who am not a Welshman； who could repeat a line beyond the four
which I have twice had occasion to mention； and which seem to be
generally known in North if not in South Wales。
From the flagstone I proceeded to the portico and gazed upon it
intensely。 It presented nothing very remarkable； but it had the
greatest interest for me； for I remembered how many times Huw
Morris had walked out of that porch at the head of the
congregation； the clergyman yielding his own place to the inspired
bard。 I would fain have entered the church； but the landlord had
not the key； and told me that he imagined there would be some
difficulty in procuring it。 I was therefore obliged to content
myself with peeping through a window into the interior； which had a
solemn and venerable aspect。
〃Within there；〃 said I to myself； 〃Huw Morris； the greatest
songster of the seventeenth century； knelt every Sunday during the
latter thirty years of his life； after walking from Pont y Meibion
across the bleak and savage Berwyn。 Within there was married
Barbara Wynn； the Rose of Maelai； to Richard Middleton； the
handsome cavalier of Maelor；