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sullen unsocial disposition； I said nothing to him； but proceeded
on my way。 As I advanced the valley widened； the hills on the west
receding to some distance from the river。 Came to Tregeiriog a
small village； which takes its name from the brook； Tregeiriog
signifying the hamlet or village on the Ceiriog。 Seeing a bridge
which crossed the rivulet at a slight distance from the road； a
little beyond the village； I turned aside to look at it。 The
proper course of the Ceiriog is from south to north； where it is
crossed by the bridge； however； it runs from west to east；
returning to its usual course； a little way below the bridge。 The
bridge was small and presented nothing remarkable in itself： I
obtained； however； as I looked over its parapet towards the west a
view of a scene； not of wild grandeur； but of something which I
like better； which richly compensated me for the slight trouble I
had taken in stepping aside to visit the little bridge。 About a
hundred yards distant was a small water…mill； built over the
rivulet； the wheel going slowly； slowly round； large quantities of
pigs； the generality of them brindled； were either browsing on the
banks or lying close to the sides half immersed in the water； one
immense white hog； the monarch seemingly of the herd； was standing
in the middle of the current。 Such was the scene which I saw from
the bridge； a scene of quiet rural life well suited to the brushes
of two or three of the old Dutch painters； or to those of men
scarcely inferior to them in their own style； Gainsborough；
Moreland； and Crome。 My mind for the last half…hour had been in a
highly excited state； I had been repeating verses of old Huw
Morris； brought to my recollection by the sight of his dwelling…
place； they were ranting roaring verses； against the Roundheads。 I
admired the vigour but disliked the principles which they
displayed； and admiration on the one hand and disapproval on the
other； bred a commotion in my mind like that raised on the sea when
tide runs one way and wind blows another。 The quiet scene from the
bridge； however； produced a sedative effect on my mind； and when I
resumed my journey I had forgotten Huw； his verses； and all about
Roundheads and Cavaliers。
I reached Llanarmon； another small village； situated in a valley
through which the Ceiriog or a river very similar to it flows。 It
is half…way between Llangollen and Llan Rhyadr； being ten miles
from each。 I went to a small inn or public…house； sat down and
called for ale。 A waggoner was seated at a large table with a
newspaper before him on which he was intently staring。
〃What news？〃 said I in English。
〃I wish I could tell you；〃 said he in very broken English； 〃but I
cannot read。〃
〃Then why are you looking at the paper？〃 said I。
〃Because；〃 said he； 〃by looking at the letters I hope in time to
make them out。〃
〃You may look at them；〃 said I； 〃for fifty years without being able
to make out one。 You should go to an evening school。〃
〃I am too old；〃 said he； 〃to do so now； if I did the children would
laugh at me。〃
〃Never mind their laughing at you；〃 said I； 〃provided you learn to
read； let them laugh who win！〃
〃You give good advice； mester；〃 said he； 〃I think I shall follow
it。〃
〃Let me look at the paper；〃 said I。
He handed it to me。 It was a Welsh paper； and full of dismal
accounts from the seat of war。
〃What news； mester？〃 said the waggoner。
〃Nothing but bad；〃 said I； 〃the Russians are beating us and the
French too。〃
〃If the Rusiaid beat us；〃 said the waggoner； 〃it is because the
Francod are with us。 We should have gone alone。〃
〃Perhaps you are right；〃 said I； 〃at any rate we could not have
fared worse than we are faring now。〃
I presently paid for what I had had； inquired the way to Llan
Rhyadr； and departed。
The village of Llanarmon takes its name from its church； which is
dedicated to Garmon； an Armorican bishop； who with another called
Lupus came over into Britain in order to preach against the heresy
of Pelagius。 He and his colleague resided for some time in
Flintshire； and whilst there enabled in a remarkable manner the
Britons to achieve a victory over those mysterious people the
Picts； who were ravaging the country far and wide。 Hearing that
the enemy were advancing towards Mold； the two bishops gathered
together a number of the Britons； and placed them in ambush in a
dark valley through which it was necessary for the Picts to pass in
order to reach Mold； strictly enjoining them to remain quiet till
all their enemies should have entered the valley and then do
whatever they should see them； the two bishops； do。 The Picts
arrived； and when they were about half…way through the valley the
two bishops stepped forward from a thicket and began crying aloud；
〃Alleluia！〃 The Britons followed their example； and the wooded
valley resounded with cries of 〃Alleluia！ Alleluia！〃 The shouts
and the unexpected appearance of thousands of men caused such
terror to the Picts that they took to flight in the greatest
confusion； hundreds were trampled to death by their companions； and
not a few were drowned in the river Alan （8） which runs through the
valley。
There are several churches dedicated to Garmon in Wales； but
whether there are any dedicated to Lupus I am unable to say。 After
leaving Llanarmon I found myself amongst lumpy hills through which
the road led in the direction of the south。 Arriving where several
roads met I followed one and became bewildered amidst hills and
ravines。 At last I saw a small house close by a nant or dingle；
and turned towards it for the purpose of inquiring my way。 On my
knocking at the door a woman made her appearance； of whom I asked
in Welsh whether I was in the road to Llan Rhyadr。 She said that I
was out of it； but that if I went towards the south I should see a
path on my left which would bring me to it。 I asked her how far it
was to Llan Rhyadr。
〃Four long miles；〃 she replied。
〃And what is the name of the place where we are now？〃 said I。
〃Cae Hir〃 （the long inclosure）； said she。
〃Are you alone in the house？〃 said I。
〃Quite alone；〃 said she； 〃but my husband and people will soon be
home from the field； for it is getting dusk。〃
〃Have you any Saxon？〃 said I。
〃Not a word；〃 said she； 〃have I of the iaith dieithr； nor has my
husband； nor any one of my people。〃
I bade her farewell； and soon reached the road； which led south and
north。 As I was bound for the south I strode forward briskly in
that direction。 The road was between romantic hills； heard Welsh
songs proceeding from the hill fields on my right； and the murmur
of a brook rushing down a deep nant on my left。 I went on till I
came to a collection of houses which an old woman； with a cracked
voice and a small tin milk…pail； whom I assisted in getting over a
stile into the road； told me was called Pen Strit … probably the
head of the street。 She spoke English； and on my asking her how
she had learnt the English tongue； she told me that she had learnt
it of her mother who was an English woman