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puss was left along with a trifle for its milk…money； and with her；
as we subsequently learned； it continued in peace and comfort till
one morning it sprang suddenly from the hearth into the air； gave a
mew； and died。 So much for the ecclesiastical cat！
The morning of Tuesday was rather fine； and Mr Ebenezer E…； who had
heard of our intended departure； came to invite us to spend the
evening at the Vicarage。 His father had left Llangollen the day
before for Chester； where he expected to be detained some days。 I
told him we should be most happy to come。 He then asked me to take
a walk。 I agreed with pleasure； and we set out； intending to go to
Llansilio at the western end of the valley and look at the church。
The church was an ancient building。 It had no spire； but had the
little erection on its roof； so usual to Welsh churches； for
holding a bell。
In the churchyard is a tomb in which an old squire of the name of
Jones was buried about the middle of the last century。 There is a
tradition about this squire and tomb to the following effect。
After the squire's death there was a lawsuit about his property； in
consequence of no will having been found。 It was said that his
will had been buried with him in the tomb； which after some time
was opened； but with what success the tradition sayeth not。
In the evening we went to the Vicarage。 Besides the family and
ourselves there was Mr R… and one or two more。 We had a very
pleasant party； and as most of those present wished to hear
something connected with Spain； I talked much about that country；
sang songs of Germania； and related in an abridged form Lope de
Vega's ghost story； which is decidedly the best ghost story in the
world。
In the afternoon of Wednesday I went and took leave of certain
friends in the town； amongst others of old Mr Jones。 On my telling
him that I was about to leave Llangollen； he expressed considerable
regret； but said that it was natural for me to wish to return to my
native country。 I told him that before returning to England I
intended to make a pedestrian tour in South Wales。 He said that he
should die without seeing the south； that he had had several
opportunities of visiting it when he was young； which he had
neglected； and that he was now too old to wander far from home。 He
then asked me which road I intended to take。 I told him that I
intended to strike across the Berwyn to Llan Rhyadr； then visit
Sycharth； once the seat of Owain Glendower； lying to the east of
Llan Rhyadr； then return to that place； and after seeing the
celebrated cataract across the mountains to Bala … whence I should
proceed due south。 I then asked him whether he had ever seen
Sycharth and the Rhyadr； he told me that he had never visited
Sycharth； but had seen the Rhyadr more than once。 He then smiled
and said that there was a ludicrous anecdote connected with the
Rhyadr； which he would relate to me。 〃A traveller once went to see
the Rhyadr； and whilst gazing at it a calf which had fallen into
the stream above； whilst grazing upon the rocks； came tumbling down
the cataract。 'Wonderful！' said the traveller； and going away
reported that it was not only a fall of water； but of calves； and
was very much disappointed； on visiting the waterfall on another
occasion； to see no calf come tumbling down。〃 I took leave of the
kind old gentleman with regret； never expecting to see him again；
as he was in his eighty…fourth year … he was a truly excellent
character； and might be ranked amongst the venerable ornaments of
his native place。
About half…past eight o'clock at night John Jones came to bid me
farewell。 I bade him sit down； and sent for a pint of ale to
regale him with。 Notwithstanding the ale； he was very melancholy
at the thought that I was about to leave Llangollen； probably never
to return。 To enliven him I gave him an account of my late
expedition to Wrexham； which made him smile more than once。 When I
had concluded he asked me whether I knew the meaning of the word
Wrexham： I told him I believed I did； and gave him the derivation
which the reader will find in an early chapter of this work。 He
told me that with all due submission； he thought he could give me a
better； which he had heard from a very clever man； gwr deallus
iawn； who lived about two miles from Llangollen on the Corwen road。
In the old time a man of the name of Sam kept a gwestfa； or inn； at
the place where Wrexham flow stands； when he died he left it to his
wife； who kept it after him； on which account the house was first
called Ty wraig Sam； the house of Sam's wife； and then for
shortness Wraig Sam； and a town arising about it by degrees； the
town too was called Wraig Sam； which the Saxons corrupted into
Wrexham。
I was much diverted with this Welsh derivation of Wrexham； which I
did not attempt to controvert。 After we had had some further
discourse John Jones got up； shook me by the hand； gave a sigh；
wished me a 〃taith hyfryd；〃 and departed。 Thus terminated my last
day at Llangollen。
CHAPTER LXIV
Departure for South Wales … Tregeiriog … Pleasing Scene … Trying to
Read … Garmon and Lupus … The Cracked Voice … Effect of a
Compliment … Llan Rhyadr。
THE morning of the 21st of October was fine and cold； there was a
rime frost on the ground。 At about eleven o'clock I started on my
journey for South Wales； intending that my first stage should be
Llan Rhyadr。 My wife and daughter accompanied me as far as Plas
Newydd。 As we passed through the town I shook hands with honest A…
； whom I saw standing at the door of a shop； with a kind of Spanish
hat on his head； and also with my venerable friend old Mr Jones；
whom I encountered close beside his own domicile。 At the Plas
Newydd I took an affectionate farewell of my two loved ones； and
proceeded to ascend the Berwyn。 Near the top I turned round to
take a final look at the spot where I had lately passed many a
happy hour。 There lay Llangollen far below me； with its chimneys
placidly smoking； its pretty church rising in its centre； its blue
river dividing it into two nearly equal parts； and the mighty hill
of Brennus overhanging it from the north。
I sighed； and repeating Einion Du's verse
〃Tangnefedd i Llangollen！〃
turned away。
I went over the top of the hill and then began to descend its
southern side； obtaining a distant view of the plains of Shropshire
on the east。 I soon reached the bottom of the hill； passed through
Llansanfraid； and threading the vale of the Ceiriog at length found
myself at Pont y Meibion in front of the house of Huw Morris； or
rather of that which is built on the site of the dwelling of the
poet。 I stopped and remained before the house thinking of the
mighty Huw； till the door opened； and out came the dark…featured
man； the poet's descendant； whom I saw when visiting the place in
company with honest John Jones … he had now a spade in his hand and
was doubtless going to his labour。 As I knew him to be of a rather
sullen unsocial disposition； I said nothing to him； but proceeded
on