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ancient Gaul； who has been sergeant…major in the French line and
who is； I see； a great； big； muscular FAINEANT。 We left the tent
pitched and some stores in charge of a guide； and ran back to
Cagliari。
'Certainly； being at the head of things is pleasanter than being
subordinate。 We all agree very well； and I have made the testing
office into a kind of private room where I can come and write to
you undisturbed； surrounded by my dear； bright brass things which
all of them remind me of our nights at Birkenhead。 Then I can work
here； too； and try lots of experiments； you know how I like that！
and now and then I read … Shakespeare principally。 Thank you so
much for making me bring him： I think I must get a pocket edition
of Hamlet and Henry the Fifth； so as never to be without them。
'Cagliari： October 7。
'＇The town was full？＇ 。 。 。 of red…shirted English Garibaldini。 A
very fine looking set of fellows they are； too： the officers
rather raffish； but with medals Crimean and Indian； the men a very
sturdy set； with many lads of good birth I should say。 They still
wait their consort the Emperor and will； I fear； be too late to do
anything。 I meant to have called on them； but they are all gone
into barracks some way from the town； and I have been much too busy
to go far。
'The view from the ramparts was very strange and beautiful。
Cagliari rises on a very steep rock； at the mouth of a wide plain
circled by large hills and three…quarters filled with lagoons； it
looks； therefore； like an old island citadel。 Large heaps of salt
mark the border between the sea and the lagoons； thousands of
flamingoes whiten the centre of the huge shallow marsh； hawks hover
and scream among the trees under the high mouldering battlements。 …
A little lower down； the band played。 Men and ladies bowed and
pranced； the costumes posed； church bells tinkled； processions
processed； the sun set behind thick clouds capping the hills； I
pondered on you and enjoyed it all。
'Decidedly I prefer being master to being man： boats at all hours；
stewards flying for marmalade； captain enquiring when ship is to
sail； clerks to copy my writing； the boat to steer when we go out …
I have run her nose on several times； decidedly； I begin to feel
quite a little king。 Confound the cable； though！ I shall never be
able to repair it。
'Bona： October 14。
'We left Cagliari at 4。30 on the 9th and soon got to Spartivento。
I repeated some of my experiments； but found Thomson； who was to
have been my grand stand…by； would not work on that day in the
wretched little hut。 Even if the windows and door had been put in；
the wind which was very high made the lamp flicker about and blew
it out； so I sent on board and got old sails； and fairly wrapped
the hut up in them； and then we were as snug as could be； and I
left the hut in glorious condition with a nice little stove in it。
The tent which should have been forthcoming from the cure's for the
guards； had gone to Cagliari； but I found another； ＇a＇ green；
Turkish tent； in the ELBA and soon had him up。 The square tent
left on the last occasion was standing all right and tight in spite
of wind and rain。 We landed provisions； two beds； plates； knives；
forks； candles； cooking utensils； and were ready for a start at 6
P。M。； but the wind meanwhile had come on to blow at such a rate
that I thought better of it； and we stopped。 T… and S… slept
ashore； however； to see how they liked it； at least they tried to
sleep； for S… the ancient sergeant…major had a toothache； and T…
thought the tent was coming down every minute。 Next morning they
could only complain of sand and a leaky coffee…pot； so I leave them
with a good conscience。 The little encampment looked quite
picturesque： the green round tent； the square white tent and the
hut all wrapped up in sails； on a sand hill； looking on the sea and
masking those confounded marshes at the back。 One would have
thought the Cagliaritans were in a conspiracy to frighten the two
poor fellows； who （I believe） will be safe enough if they do not go
into the marshes after nightfall。 S… brought a little dog to amuse
them； such a jolly； ugly little cur without a tail； but full of
fun； he will be better than quinine。
'The wind drove a barque； which had anchored near us for shelter；
out to sea。 We started； however； at 2 P。M。； and had a quick
passage but a very rough one； getting to Bona by daylight ＇on the
11th＇。 Such a place as this is for getting anything done！ The
health boat went away from us at 7。30 with W… on board； and we
heard nothing of them till 9。30； when W… came back with two fat
Frenchmen who are to look on on the part of the Government。 They
are exactly alike： only one has four bands and the other three
round his cap； and so I know them。 Then I sent a boat round to
Fort Genois ＇Fort Genova of 1858＇； where the cable is landed； with
all sorts of things and directions； whilst I went ashore to see
about coals and a room at the fort。 We hunted people in the little
square in their shops and offices； but only found them in cafes。
One amiable gentleman wasn't up at 9。30； was out at 10； and as soon
as he came back the servant said he would go to bed and not get up
till 3： he came； however； to find us at a cafe； and said that； on
the contrary； two days in the week he did not do so！ Then my two
fat friends must have their breakfast after their 〃something〃 at a
cafe； and all the shops shut from 10 to 2； and the post does not
open till 12； and there was a road to Fort Genois； only a bridge
had been carried away； &c。 At last I got off； and we rowed round
to Fort Genois； where my men had put up a capital gipsy tent with
sails； and there was my big board and Thomson's number 5 in great
glory。 I soon came to the conclusion there was a break。 Two of my
faithful Cagliaritans slept all night in the little tent； to guard
it and my precious instruments； and the sea； which was rather
rough； silenced my Frenchmen。
'Next day I went on with my experiments； whilst a boat grappled for
the cable a little way from shore and buoyed it where the ELBA
could get hold。 I brought all back to the ELBA； tried my machinery
and was all ready for a start next morning。 But the wretched coal
had not come yet； Government permission from Algiers to be got；
lighters； men； baskets； and I know not what forms to be got or got
through … and everybody asleep！ Coals or no coals； I was
determined to start next morning； and start we did at four in the
morning； picked up the buoy with our deck engine； popped the cable
across a boat； tested the wires to make sure the fault was not
behind us； and started picking up at 11。 Everything worked
admirably； and about 2 P。M。； in came the fault。 There is no doubt
the cable was broken by coral fishers； twice they have had it up to
their