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You may be sure we had our arrangements； though they did not appear on the surface。 The askaris； or native soldiers； were posted here and there with their muskets； the gunbearers also kept our spare weapons by them。 The askaris could not hit a barn； but they could make a noise。 The gunbearers were fair shots。
Of course the chief and his prime minister came in。 They were evil…looking savages。 To them we paid not the slightest attention； but went about our usual business as though they did not exist。 At the end of an hour they of their own initiative greeted us。 We did not hear them。 Half an hour later they disappeared； to return after an interval； followed by a string of young men bearing firewood。 Evidently our bearing had impressed them； as we had intended。 We then unbent far enough to recognize them； carried on a formal conversation for a few moments； gave them adequate presents and dismissed them。 Then we ordered the askaris to clear camp and to keep it clear。 No women had appeared。 Even the gifts of firewood had been carried by men； a most unusual proceeding。
As soon as dark fell the drums began roaring in the forest all about our clearing； and the chanting to rise。 We instructed our men to shoot first and inquire afterward； if a shenzi so much as showed himself in the clearing。 This was not as bad as it sounded； the shenzi stood in no immediate danger。 Then we turned in to a sleep rather light and broken by uncertainty。 I do not think we were in any immediate danger of a considered attack； for these people were not openly hostile； but there was always a chance that the savages might by their drum pounding and dancing work themselves into a frenzy。 Then we might have to do a little rapid shooting。 Not for one instant the whole night long did those misguided savages cease their howling and dancing。 At any rate we cost them a night's sleep。
Next morning we took up our march through the deserted tracks once more。 Not a sign of human life did we encounter。 About ten o'clock we climbed down a tremendous gash of a box canyon with precipitous cliffs。 From below we looked back to see； perched high against the skyline； the motionless figures of many savages watching us from the crags。 So we had had company after all； and we had not known it。 This canyon proved to be the boundary line。 With the same abruptness we passed again into friendly country。
（d） OUT THE OTHER SIDE
We left the jungle finally when we turned on a long angle away from Kenia。 At first the open country of the foothills was closely cultivated with fields of rape and maize。 We saw some of the people breaking new soil by means of long pointed sticks。 The plowmen quite simply inserted the pointed end in the ground and pried。 It was very slow hard work。 In other fields the grain stood high and good。 From among the stalks； as from a miniature jungle； the little naked totos stared out； and the good…natured women smiled at us。 The magnificent peak of Kenia had now shaken itself free of the forests。 On its snow the sunrises and sunsets kindled their fires。 The flames of grass fires； too； could plainly be made out； incredible distances away； and at daytime； through the reek； were fascinating suggestions of distant rivers； plains； jungles； and hills。 You see； we were still practically on the wide slope of Kenia's base； though the peak was many days away； and so could look out over wide country。
The last half day of this we wandered literally in a rape field。 The stalks were quite above our heads； and we could see but a few yards in any direction。 In addition the track had become a footpath not over two feet wide。 We could occasionally look back to catch glimpses of a pack or so bobbing along on a porter's head。 From our own path hundreds of other paths branched； we were continually taking the wrong fork and moving back to set the safari right before it could do likewise。 This we did by drawing a deep double line in the earth across the wrong trail。 Then we hustled on ahead to pioneer the way a little farther； our difficulties were further complicated by the fact that we had sent our horses back to Nairobi for fear of the tsetse fly； so we could not see out above the corn。 All we knew was that we ought to go down hill。
At the ends of some of our false trails we came upon fascinating little settlements： groups of houses inside brush enclosures； with low wooden gateways beneath which we had to stoop to enter。 Within were groups of beehive houses with small naked children and perhaps an old woman or old man seated cross…legged under a sort of veranda。 From them we obtained new…and confusing… directions。
After three o'clock we came finally out on the edge of a cliff fifty or sixty feet high； below which lay uncultivated bottom lands like a great meadow and a little meandering stream。 We descended the cliff； and camped by the meandering stream。
By this time we were fairly tired from long walking in the heat； and so were content to sit down under our tent…fly before our little table； and let Mahomet bring us sparklets and lime juice。 Before us was the flat of a meadow below the cliffs and the cliffs themselves。 Just below the rise lay a single patch of standing rape not over two acres in extent； the only sign of human life。 It was as though this little bit had overflowed from the countless millions on the plateau above。 Beyond it arose a thin signal of smoke。
We sipped our lime juice and rested。 Soon our attention was attracted by the peculiar actions of a big flock of very white birds。 They rose suddenly from one side of the tiny rape field； wheeled and swirled like leaves in the wind； and dropped down suddenly on the other side the patch。 After a few moments they repeated the performance。 The sun caught the dazzling white of their plumage。 At first we speculated on what they might be； then on what they were doing； to behave in so peculiar a manner。 The lime juice and the armchair began to get in their recuperative work。 Somehow the distance across that flat did not seem quite as tremendous as at first。 Finally I picked up the shotgun and sauntered across to investigate。 The cause of action I soon determined。 The owner of that rape field turned out to be an emaciated； gray…haired but spry old savage。 He was armed with a spear； and at the moment his chief business in life seemed to be chasing a large flock of white birds off his grain。 Since he had no assistance； and since the birds held his spear in justifiable contempt as a fowling piece； he was getting much exercise and few results。 The birds gave way before his direct charge； flopped over to the other side； and continued their meal。 They had already occasioned considerable damage； the rape heads were bent and destroyed for a space of perhaps ten feet from the outer edge of the field。 As this grain probably constituted the old man's food supply for a season； I did not wonder at the vehemence with which he shook his spear at his enemies； nor the apparent flavour of his language； though I did marvel at his physical endurance。 As for the birds； they had become cynical and impudent； they barely fluttered out of the way。
I halted the old gentleman and hastened to explain that I was neither a pirate； a