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ning； the long blade of his spear； bound around with a red strip to signify his office； slanting across his shoulder； his buffalo hide shield slung from it over his back； the letter he was bearing stuck in a cleft stick and carried proudly before him as a priest carries a cross to the heathen…in the pictures。 He was swinging along at a brisk pace； but on seeing us drew up and gave us a smart military salute。
At one point where the path went level and straight for some distance； we were riding in an absolute solitude。 Suddenly from the jungle on either side and about fifty yards ahead of us leaped a dozen women。 They were dressed in grass skirts； and carried long narrow wooden shields painted white and brown。 These they clashed together； shrieked shrilly； and charged down on us at full speed。 When within a few yards of our horses noses they came to a sudden halt； once more clashed their shields； shrieked； turned and scuttled away as fast as their legs could carry them。 At a hundred yards they repeated the performance； and charged back at us again。 Thus advancing and retreating； shrieking high； hitting the wooden shields with resounding crash； they preceded our slow advance for a half mile or so。 Then at some signal unperceived by us they vanished abruptly into the jungle。 Once more we rode forward in silence and in solitude。 Why they did it I could not say。
Of this tissue were our days made。 At noon our boys plucked us each two or three banana leaves which they spread down for us to lie on。 Then we dozed through the hot hours in great comfort； occasionally waking to blue sky through green trees； or to peer idly into the tangled jungle。 At two o'clock or a little later we would arouse ourselves reluctantly and move on。 The safari we had dimly heard passing us an hour before。 In this country of the direct track we did not attempt to accompany our men。
The end of the day's march found us in a little clearing where we could pitch camp。 Generally this was atop a ridge； so that the boys had some distance to carry water； but that disadvantage was outweighed by the cleared space。 Sometimes we found ourselves hemmed in by a wall of jungle。 Again we enjoyed a broad outlook。 One such in especial took in the magnificent； splintered； snow…capped peak of Kenia on the right； a tremendous gorge and rolling forested mountains straight ahead； and a great drop to a plain with other and distant mountains to the left。 It was as fine a panoramic view as one could imagine。
Our tents pitched； and ourselves washed and refreshed； we gave audience to the resident chief； who had probably been waiting。 With this potentate we conversed affably； after the usual expectoratorial ceremonies。 Billy； being a mere woman； did not always come in for this； but nevertheless she maintained what she called her 〃quarantine gloves；〃 and kept them very handy。 We had standing orders with our boys for basins of hot water to be waiting always behind our tents。 After the usual polite exchanges we informed the chief of our needs…firewood； perhaps； milk； a sheep or the like。 These he furnished。 When we left we made him a present of a few beads； a knife； a blanket or such according to the value of his contribution。
To me these encounters were some of the most interesting of our many experiences； for each man differed radically from every other in his conceptions of ceremony； in his ideas； and in his methods。 Our coming was a good deal of an event； always； and each chief； according to his temperament and training； tried to do things up properly。 And in that attempt certain basic traits of human nature showed in the very strongest relief。 Thus there are three points of view to take in running any spectacle： that of the star performer； the stage manager； or the truly artistic。 We encountered well…marked specimens of each。 I will tell you about them。
The star performer knew his stagecraft thoroughly； and in the exposition of his knowledge he showed incidentally how truly basic are the principles of stagecraft anywhere。
We were seated under a tree near the banks of a stream eating our lunch。 Before us appeared two tall and slender youths； wreathed in smiles； engaging； and most attentive to the small niceties of courtesy。 We returned their greeting from our recumbent positions； whereupon they made preparation to squat down beside us。
〃Are you sultans？〃 we demanded sternly； 〃that you attempt to sit in Our Presence；〃 and we lazily kicked the nearest。
Not at all abashed； but favourably impressed with our transcendent importance…as we intended…they leaned gracefully on their spears and entered into conversation。 After a few trifles of airy persiflage they got down to business。
〃This；〃 said they； indicating the tiny flat； 〃is the most beautiful place to camp in all the mountains。〃
We doubted it。
〃Here is excellent water。〃
We agreed to that。
〃And there is no more water for a journey。〃
〃You are liars；〃 we observed politely。
〃And near is the village of our chief； who is a great warrior； and will bring you many presents； the greatest man in these parts。〃
〃Now you're getting to it；〃 we observed in English； 〃you want trade。〃 Then in Swahili； 〃We shall march two hours longer。〃
After a few polite phrases they went away。 We finished lunch； remounted； and rode up the trail。 At the edge of the canyon we came to a wide clearing； at the farther side of which was evidently the village in question。 But the merry villagers； down to the last toro； were drawn up at the edge of the track in a double line through which we rode。 They were very wealthy savages； and wore it all。 Bright neck； arm； and leg ornaments； yards and yards of cowry shells in strings； blue beads of all sizes （blue beads were evidently 〃in〃）； odd scraps and shapes of embroidered skins； clean shaves and a beautiful polish characterized this holiday gathering。 We made our royal progress between the serried ranks。 About eight or ten seconds after we had passed the last villager…just the proper dramatic pause； you observe…the bushes parted and a splendid； straight； springy young man came into view and stepped smilingly across the space that separated us。 And about eight or ten seconds after his emergence…again just the right dramatic pause…the bushes parted again to give entrance to four of the quaintest little dolls of wives。 These advanced all abreast； parted； and took up positions two either side the smiling chief。 This youth was evidently in the height of fashion； his hair braided in a tight queue bound with skin； his ears dangling with ornaments； heavy necklaces around his neck； and armlets etc。； ad lib。 His robe was of fine monkey skin embroidered with rosettes of beads； and his spear was very long； bright and keen。 He was tall and finely built carried himself with a free； lithe swing。 As the quintette came to halt； the villagers fell silent and our shauri began。
We drew up and dismounted。 We all expectorated as gentlemen。
〃These；〃 said he proudly； 〃are my beebees。〃
We replied that they seemed like excellent beebees and politely inquired the price of wives thereabout； and also the market for totos。 He gave us to understand that such superior wives as these brought three cows and t