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At length this gentle foothill slope broke over into rougher country。 Then； in the pass； we came upon many parallel beaten paths； wider and straighter than the game trails…native tracks。 That night we camped in a small； round valley under some glorious trees； with green grass around us； a refreshing contrast after the desert brown。 In the distance ahead stood a big hill； and at its base we could make out amid the tree…green； the straight slim smoke of many fires and the threads of many roads。
We began our next morning's march early； and we dropped over the hill into a wide； cultivated valley。 Fields of grain； mostly rape； were planted irregularly among big scattered trees。 The morning air； warming under the sun； was as yet still； and carried sound well。 The cooing； chattering and calling of thousands of birds mingled with shouts and the clapping together of pieces of wood。 As we came closer we saw that every so often scaffolds had been erected overlooking the grain； and on these scaffolds naked boys danced and yelled and worked clappers to scare the birds from the crops。 They seemed to put a great deal of rigour into the job； whether from natural enthusiasm or efficient direful supervision I could not say。 Certainly they must have worked in watches； however； no human being could keep up that row continuously for a single day； let alone the whole season of ripening grain。 As we passed they fell silent and stared their fill。
On the banks of a boggy little stream that we had to flounder across we came on a gentleman and lady travelling。 They were a tall； well formed pair； mahogany in colour； with the open； pleasant expression of most of these jungle peoples。 The man wore a string around his waist into which was thrust a small leafy branch； the woman had on a beautiful skirt made by halving a banana leaf； using the stem as belt； and letting the leaf part hang down as a skirt。 Shortly after meeting these people we turned sharp to the right on a well beaten road。
For nearly two weeks we were to follow this road； so it may be as well to get an idea of it。 Its course was a segment of about a sixth of the circle of Kenia's foothills。 With Kenia itself as a centre； this road swung among the lower elevations about the base of that great mountain。 Its course was mainly down and up hundreds of the canyons radiating from the main peak； and over the ridges between them。 No sooner were we down； than we had to climb up； and no sooner were we up； than once more down we had to plunge。 At times； however； we crossed considerable plateaus。 Most of this country was dense jungle； so dense that we could not see on either side more than fifteen or twenty feet。 Occasionally； atop the ridges； however； we would come upon small open parks。 In these jungles live millions of human beings。
At once； as soon as we had turned into the main road； we began to meet people。 In the grain fields of the valley we saw only the elevated boys； and a few men engaged in weaving a little house perched on stilts。 We came across some of these little houses all completed； with conical roofs。 They were evidently used for granaries。 As we mounted the slope on the other side； however； the trees closed in； and we found ourselves marching down the narrow aisle of the jungle itself。
It was a dense and beautiful jungle； with very tall trees and the deepest shade； and the impenetrable tangle to the edge of the track。 Among the trees were the broad leaves of bananas and palms； the fling of leafy vines。 Over the track these leaned； so that we rode through splashing and mottling shade。 Nothing could have seemed wilder than this apparently impenetrable and yet we had ridden but a short distance before we realized that we were in fact passing through cultivated land。 It was； again； only a difference in terms。 Native cultivation in this district rarely consists of clearing land and planting crops in due order； but in leaving the forest proper as it is； and in planting foodstuffs haphazard wherever a tiny space can be made for even three hills of corn or a single banana。 Thus they add to rather than subtract from the typical density of the jungle。 At first； we found； it took some practice to tell a farm when we saw it。
》From the track narrow little paths wound immediately out of sight。 Sometimes we saw a wisp of smoke rising above the undergrowth and eddying in the tops of the trees。 Long vine ropes swung from point to point； hung at intervals with such matters as feathers； bones； miniature shields； carved sticks； shells and clappers： either as magic or to keep off the birds。 From either side the track we were conscious always of bright black eyes watching us。 Sometimes we caught a glimpse of their owners crouched in the bush； concealed behind banana leaves； motionless and straight against a tree trunk。 When they saw themselves observed they vanished without a sound。
The upper air was musical with birds； and bright with the flutter of their wings。 Rarely did we see them long enough to catch a fair idea of their size and shape。 They flashed from shade to shade； leaving only an impression of brilliant colour。 There were some exceptions： as the widower…bird； dressed all in black； with long trailing wing…plumes of which he seemed very proud； and the various sorts of green pigeons and parrots。 There were many flowering shrubs and trees； and the air was laden with perfume。 Strange； too； it seemed to see tall trees with leaves three or four feet long and half as many wide。
We were riding a mile or so ahead of the safari。 At first we were accompanied only by our gunbearers and syces。 Before long； however； we began to accumulate a following。
This consisted at first of a very wonderful young man； probably a chief's son。 He carried a long bright spear； wore a short sword thrust through a girdle； had his hair done in three wrapped queues； one over each temple and one behind； and was generally brought to a high state of polish by means of red earth and oil。 About his knee he wore a little bell that jingled pleasingly at every step。 From one shoulder hung a goat…skin cloak embroidered with steel beads。 A small package neatly done up in leaves probably contained his lunch。 He teetered along with a mincing up and down step； every movement； and the expression of his face displaying a fatuous self…satisfaction。 When we looked back again this youth had magically become two。 Then appeared two women and a white goat。 All except the goat were dressed for visiting； with long chains of beads； bracelets and anklets； and heavy ornaments in the distended ear lobes。 The manner people sprang apparently out of the ground was very disconcerting。 It was a good deal like those fairy…story moving pictures where a wave of the wand produces beautiful ladies。 By half an hour we had acquired a long retinue…young warriors； old men； women and innumerable children。 After we had passed； the new recruits stepped quietly from the shadow of the jungle and fell in。 Every one with nothing much to do evidently made up his mind he might as well go to Meru now as any other time。
Also we met a great number of people going in the other direction。 Women were bearing loads of yams。 Chiefs' sons minced along； their spe