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itinerary of archibishop-第31章

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ganwy; seem to rear their lofty summits even to the clouds; when viewed from the opposite coast of Anglesey。  They are said to be of so great an extent; that according to an ancient proverb; 〃As Mona could supply corn for all the inhabitants of Wales; so could the Eryri mountains afford sufficient pasture for all the herds; if collected together。〃  Hence these lines of Virgil may be applied to them:…


〃Et quantum longis carpent armenta diebus; Exigua tautum gelidus ros nocte reponet。〃

〃And what is cropt by day the night renews; Shedding refreshful stores of cooling dews。〃


On the highest parts of these mountains are two lakes worthy of admiration。  The one has a floating island in it; which is often driven from one side to the other by the force of the winds; and the shepherds behold with astonishment their cattle; whilst feeding; carried to the distant parts of the lake。  A part of the bank naturally bound together by the roots of willows and other shrubs may have been broken off; and increased by the alluvion of the earth from the shore; and being continually agitated by the winds; which in so elevated a situation blow with great violence; it cannot reunite itself firmly with the banks。  The other lake is noted for a wonderful and singular miracle。  It contains three sorts of fish … eels; trout; and perch; all of which have only one eye; the left being wanting; but if the curious reader should demand of me the explanation of so extraordinary a circumstance; I cannot presume to satisfy him。  It is remarkable also; that in two places in Scotland; one near the eastern; the other near the western sea; the fish called mullets possess the same defect; having no left eye。 According to vulgar tradition; these mountains are frequented by an eagle who; perching on a fatal stone every fifth holiday; in order to satiate her hunger with the carcases of the slain; is said to expect war on that same day; and to have almost perforated the stone by cleaning and sharpening her beak。



CHAPTER X



Of the passage by Deganwy and Ruthlan; and the see of Lanelwy; and of Coleshulle


Having crossed the river Conwy; {173} or rather an arm of the sea; under Deganwy; leaving the Cistercian monastery of Conwy {174} on the western bank of the river to our right hand; we arrived at Ruthlan; a noble castle on the river Cloyd; belonging to David; the eldest son of Owen {175} where; at the earnest invitation of David himself; we were handsomely entertained that night。

There is a spring not far from Ruthlan; in the province of Tegengel; {176} which not only regularly ebbs and flows like the sea; twice in twenty…four hours; but at other times frequently rises and falls both by night and day。  Trogus Pompeius says; 〃that there is a town of the Garamantes; where there is a spring which is hot and cold alternately by day and night。〃 {177}

Many persons in the morning having been persuaded to dedicate themselves to the service of Christ; we proceeded from Ruthlan to the small cathedral church of Lanelwy; {178} from whence (the archbishop having celebrated mass) we continued our journey through a country rich in minerals of silver; where money is sought in the bowels of the earth; to the little cell of Basinwerk; {179} where we passed the night。  The following day we traversed a long quicksand; and not without some degree of apprehension; leaving the woody district of Coleshulle; {180} or hill of coal; on our right hand; where Henry II。; who in our time; actuated by youthful and indiscreet ardour; made a hostile irruption into Wales; and presuming to pass through that narrow and woody defile; experienced a signal defeat; and a very heavy loss of men。 {181}  The aforesaid king invaded Wales three times with an army; first; North Wales at the above…mentioned place; secondly; South Wales; by the sea…coast of Glamorgan and Goer; penetrating as far as Caermarddin and Pencadair; and returning by Ellennith and Melenith; and thirdly; the country of Powys; near Oswaldestree; but in all these expeditions the king was unsuccessful; because he placed no confidence in the prudent and well…informed chieftains of the country; but was principally advised by people remote from the marches; and ignorant of the manners and customs of the natives。  In every expedition; as the artificer is to be trusted in his trade; so the advice of those people should be consulted; who; by a long residence in the country; are become conversant with the manners and customs of the natives; and to whom it is of high importance that the power of the hostile nation; with whom; by a long and continued warfare; they have contracted an implacable enmity and hatred; should be weakened or destroyed; as we have set forth in our Vaticinal History。

In this wood of Coleshulle; a young Welshman was killed while passing through the king's army; the greyhound who accompanied him did not desert his master's corpse for eight days; though without food; but faithfully defended it from the attacks of dogs; wolves; and birds of prey; with a wonderful attachment。  What son to his father; what Nisus to Euryalus; what Polynices to Tydeus; what Orestes to Pylades; would have shewn such an affectionate regard? As a mark of favour to the dog; who was almost starved to death; the English; although bitter enemies to the Welsh; ordered the body; now nearly putrid; to be deposited in the ground with the accustomed offices of humanity。



CHAPTER XI



Of the passage of the River Dee; and of Chester


Having crossed the river Dee below Chester; (which the Welsh call Doverdwy); on the third day before Easter; or the day of absolution (holy Thursday); we reached Chester。  As the river Wye towards the south separates Wales from England; so the Dee near Chester forms the northern boundary。  The inhabitants of these parts assert; that the waters of this river change their fords every month; and; as it inclines more towards England or Wales; they can; with certainty; prognosticate which nation will be successful or unfortunate during the year。  This river derives its origin from the lake Penmelesmere; {182} and; although it abounds with salmon; yet none are found in the lake。  It is also remarkable; that this river is never swollen by rains; but often rises by the violence of the winds。

Chester boasts of being the burial…place of Henry; {183} a Roman emperor; who; after having imprisoned his carnal and spiritual father; pope Paschal; gave himself up to penitence; and; becoming a voluntary exile in this country; ended his days in solitary retirement。  It is also asserted; that the remains of Harold are here deposited。  He was the last of the Saxon kings in England; and as a punishment for his perjury; was defeated in the battle of Hastings; fought against the Normans。  Having received many wounds; and lost his left eye by an arrow in that engagement; he is said to have escaped to these parts; where; in holy conversation; leading the life of an anchorite; and being a constant attendant at one of the churches of this city; he is believed to have terminated his days happily。 {184}  The truth of these two circumstances was declared (and not before known) by the dying confession of each party。  We saw h
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