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country on the evening of the day after his arrival； which was； as
I have said； on one of the last days of November 1890。 He had
taken an English saddle with him； and a couple of roomy and
strongly made saddle…bags。 In these he packed his money； his
nuggets； some tea； sugar； tobacco； salt； a flask of brandy；
matches； and as many ship's biscuits as he thought he was likely to
want； he took no meat； for he could supply himself from some
accommodation…house or sheep…station； when nearing the point after
which he would have to begin camping out。 He rolled his Erewhonian
dress and small toilette necessaries inside a warm red blanket； and
strapped the roll on to the front part of his saddle。 On to other
D's； with which his saddle was amply provided； he strapped his
Erewhonian boots； a tin pannikin； and a billy that would hold about
a quart。 I should； perhaps； explain to English readers that a
billy is a tin can； the name for which （doubtless of French
Canadian origin） is derived from the words 〃faire bouillir。〃 He
also took with him a pair of hobbles and a small hatchet。
He spent three whole days in riding across the plains； and was
struck with the very small signs of change that he could detect；
but the fall in wool； and the failure； so far； to establish a
frozen meat trade； had prevented any material development of the
resources of the country。 When he had got to the front ranges； he
followed up the river next to the north of the one that he had
explored years ago； and from the head waters of which he had been
led to discover the only practicable pass into Erewhon。 He did
this； partly to avoid the terribly dangerous descent on to the bed
of the more northern river； and partly to escape being seen by
shepherds or bullock…drivers who might remember him。
If he had attempted to get through the gorge of this river in 1870；
he would have found it impassable； but a few river…bed flats had
been discovered above the gorge； on which there was now a
shepherd's hut； and on the discovery of these flats a narrow horse
track had been made from one end of the gorge to the other。
He was hospitably entertained at the shepherd's hut just mentioned；
which he reached on Monday； December 1。 He told the shepherd in
charge of it that he had come to see if he could find traces of a
large wingless bird； whose existence had been reported as having
been discovered among the extreme head waters of the river。
〃Be careful； sir； said the shepherd； 〃the river is very dangerous；
several peopleone only about a year agohave left this hut； and
though their horses and their camps have been found； their bodies
have not。 When a great fresh comes down； it would carry a body out
to sea in twenty…four hours。〃
He evidently had no idea that there was a pass through the ranges
up the river； which might explain the disappearance of an explorer。
Next day my father began to ascend the river。 There was so much
tangled growth still unburnt wherever there was room for it to
grow； and so much swamp； that my father had to keep almost entirely
to the river…bedand here there was a good deal of quicksand。 The
stones also were often large for some distance together； and he had
to cross and recross streams of the river more than once； so that
though he travelled all day with the exception of a couple of hours
for dinner； he had not made more than some five and twenty miles
when he reached a suitable camping ground； where he unsaddled his
horse； hobbled him； and turned him out to feed。 The grass was
beginning to seed； so that though it was none too plentiful； what
there was of it made excellent feed。
He lit his fire； made himself some tea； ate his cold mutton and
biscuits； and lit his pipe； exactly as he had done twenty years
before。 There was the clear starlit sky； the rushing river； and
the stunted trees on the mountain…side； the woodhens cried； and the
〃more…pork〃 hooted out her two monotonous notes exactly as they had
done years since； one moment； and time had so flown backwards that
youth came bounding back to him with the return of his youth's
surroundings； the next； and the intervening twenty yearsmost of
them grim onesrose up mockingly before him； and the buoyancy of
hope yielded to the despondency of admitted failure。 By and by
buoyancy reasserted itself； and； soothed by the peace and beauty of
the night； he wrapped himself up in his blanket and dropped off
into a dreamless slumber。
Next morning； i。e。 December 3； he rose soon after dawn； bathed in a
backwater of the river； got his breakfast； found his horse on the
river…bed； and started as soon as he had duly packed and loaded。
He had now to cross streams of the river and recross them more
often than on the preceding day； and this； though his horse took
well to the water； required care； for he was anxious not to wet his
saddle…bags； and it was only by crossing at the wide； smooth； water
above a rapid； and by picking places where the river ran in two or
three streams； that he could find fords where his practised eye
told him that the water would not be above his horse's bellyfor
the river was of great volume。 Fortunately； there had been a late
fall of snow on the higher ranges； and the river was； for the
summer season； low。
Towards evening； having travelled； so far as he could guess； some
twenty or five and twenty miles （for he had made another mid day
halt）； he reached the place； which he easily recognised； as that
where he had camped before crossing to the pass that led into
Erewhon。 It was the last piece of ground that could be called a
flat （though it was in reality only the sloping delta of a stream
that descended from the pass） before reaching a large glacier that
had encroached on the river…bed； which it traversed at right angles
for a considerable distance。
Here he again camped； hobbled his horse； and turned him adrift；
hoping that he might again find him some two or three months hence；
for there was a good deal of sweet grass here and there； with sow…
thistle and anise； and the coarse tussock grass would be in full
seed shortly； which alone would keep him going for as long a time
as my father expected to be away。 Little did he think that he
should want him again so shortly。
Having attended to his horse； he got his supper； and while smoking
his pipe congratulated himself on the way in which something had
smoothed away all the obstacles that had so nearly baffled him on
his earlier journey。 Was he being lured on to his destruction by
some malicious fiend； or befriended by one who had compassion on
him and wished him well？ His naturally sanguine temperament
inclined him to adopt the friendly spirit theory； in the peace of
which he again laid himself down to rest； and slept soundly from
dark till dawn。
In the morning； though the water was somewhat icy； he again bathed；
and then put on his Erewhonian boots and dress。 He stowed his
European clothes； with some difficulty； into his saddle…bags。
Herein also he left his case full of English sovereigns； his spare
pipes； his purse； which contained two pounds in gold and seven or
eight shillings； part of his stock of tobacco； and what