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goad。'
Blessed be the man who invented goads！ Blessed the innkeeper of
Bouchet St。 Nicolas； who introduced me to their use！ This plain
wand； with an eighth of an inch of pin； was indeed a sceptre when
he put it in my hands。 Thenceforward Modestine was my slave。 A
prick； and she passed the most inviting stable door。 A prick； and
she broke forth into a gallant little trotlet that devoured the
miles。 It was not a remarkable speed； when all was said； and we
took four hours to cover ten miles at the best of it。 But what a
heavenly change since yesterday！ No more wielding of the ugly
cudgel； no more flailing with an aching arm； no more broadsword
exercise； but a discreet and gentlemanly fence。 And what although
now and then a drop of blood should appear on Modestine's mouse…
coloured wedge…like rump？ I should have preferred it otherwise；
indeed； but yesterday's exploits had purged my heart of all
humanity。 The perverse little devil； since she would not be taken
with kindness； must even go with pricking。
It was bleak and bitter cold； and； except a cavalcade of stride…
legged ladies and a pair of post…runners； the road was dead
solitary all the way to Pradelles。 I scarce remember an incident
but one。 A handsome foal with a bell about his neck came charging
up to us upon a stretch of common； sniffed the air martially as one
about to do great deeds； and suddenly thinking otherwise in his
green young heart； put about and galloped off as he had come； the
bell tinkling in the wind。 For a long while afterwards I saw his
noble attitude as he drew up； and heard the note of his bell； and
when I struck the high…road； the song of the telegraph…wires seemed
to continue the same music。
Pradelles stands on a hillside； high above the Allier； surrounded
by rich meadows。 They were cutting aftermath on all sides； which
gave the neighbourhood； this gusty autumn morning； an untimely
smell of hay。 On the opposite bank of the Allier the land kept
mounting for miles to the horizon： a tanned and sallow autumn
landscape； with black blots of fir…wood and white roads wandering
through the hills。 Over all this the clouds shed a uniform and
purplish shadow； sad and somewhat menacing； exaggerating height and
distance； and throwing into still higher relief the twisted ribbons
of the highway。 It was a cheerless prospect； but one stimulating
to a traveller。 For I was now upon the limit of Velay； and all
that I beheld lay in another county … wild Gevaudan； mountainous；
uncultivated； and but recently disforested from terror of the
wolves。
Wolves； alas； like bandits； seem to flee the traveller's advance；
and you may trudge through all our comfortable Europe； and not meet
with an adventure worth the name。 But here； if anywhere； a man was
on the frontiers of hope。 For this was the land of the ever…
memorable BEAST； the Napoleon Bonaparte of wolves。 What a career
was his！ He lived ten months at free quarters in Gevaudan and
Vivarais； he ate women and children and 'shepherdesses celebrated
for their beauty'； he pursued armed horsemen； he has been seen at
broad noonday chasing a post…chaise and outrider along the king's
high…road； and chaise and outrider fleeing before him at the
gallop。 He was placarded like a political offender； and ten
thousand francs were offered for his head。 And yet； when he was
shot and sent to Versailles； behold！ a common wolf； and even small
for that。 'Though I could reach from pole to pole；' sang Alexander
Pope； the Little Corporal shook Europe； and if all wolves had been
as this wolf； they would have changed the history of man。 M。 Elie
Berthet has made him the hero of a novel； which I have read； and do
not wish to read again。
I hurried over my lunch； and was proof against the landlady's
desire that I should visit our Lady of Pradelles； 'who performed
many miracles； although she was of wood'； and before three…quarters
of an hour I was goading Modestine down the steep descent that
leads to Langogne on the Allier。 On both sides of the road； in big
dusty fields； farmers were preparing for next spring。 Every fifty
yards a yoke of great…necked stolid oxen were patiently haling at
the plough。 I saw one of these mild formidable servants of the
glebe； who took a sudden interest in Modestine and me。 The furrow
down which he was journeying lay at an angle to the road； and his
head was solidly fixed to the yoke like those of caryatides below a
ponderous cornice； but he screwed round his big honest eyes and
followed us with a ruminating look； until his master bade him turn
the plough and proceed to reascend the field。 From all these
furrowing ploughshares； from the feet of oxen； from a labourer here
and there who was breaking the dry clods with a hoe； the wind
carried away a thin dust like so much smoke。 It was a fine； busy；
breathing； rustic landscape； and as I continued to descend； the
highlands of Gevaudan kept mounting in front of me against the sky。
I had crossed the Loire the day before； now I was to cross the
Allier； so near are these two confluents in their youth。 Just at
the bridge of Langogne； as the long…promised rain was beginning to
fall； a lassie of some seven or eight addressed me in the
sacramental phrase； 'D'OU'ST…CE…QUE VOUS VENEZ？' She did it with
so high an air that she set me laughing； and this cut her to the
quick。 She was evidently one who reckoned on respect； and stood
looking after me in silent dudgeon； as I crossed the bridge and
entered the county of Gevaudan。
UPPER GEVAUDAN
The way also here was very wearisome through dirt and slabbiness；
nor was there on all this ground so much as one inn or victualling…
house wherein to refresh the feebler sort。
PILGRIM'S PROGRESS。
A CAMP IN THE DARK
THE next day （Tuesday； September 24th）； it was two o'clock in the
afternoon before I got my journal written up and my knapsack
repaired； for I was determined to carry my knapsack in the future
and have no more ado with baskets； and half an hour afterwards I
set out for Le Cheylard l'Eveque； a place on the borders of the
forest of Mercoire。 A man； I was told； should walk there in an
hour and a half； and I thought it scarce too ambitious to suppose
that a man encumbered with a donkey might cover the same distance
in four hours。
All the way up the long hill from Langogne it rained and hailed
alternately； the wind kept freshening steadily； although slowly；
plentiful hurrying clouds … some dragging veils of straight rain…
shower； others massed and luminous as though promising snow …
careered out of the north and followed me along my way。 I was soon
out of the cultivated basin of the Allier； and away from the
ploughing oxen； and such…like sights of the country。 Moor；
heathery marsh； tracts of rock and pines； woods of birch all