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instant I had done so； without hesitation； it toppled and fell down
upon the other side。 Judge if I was hot！ And yet not a hand was
offered to assist me。 The man； indeed； told me I ought to have a
package of a different shape。 I suggested； if he knew nothing
better to the point in my predicament； he might hold his tongue。
And the good…natured dog agreed with me smilingly。 It was the most
despicable fix。 I must plainly content myself with the pack for
Modestine； and take the following items for my own share of the
portage： a cane； a quart…flask； a pilot…jacket heavily weighted in
the pockets； two pounds of black bread； and an open basket full of
meats and bottles。 I believe I may say I am not devoid of
greatness of soul； for I did not recoil from this infamous burden。
I disposed it； Heaven knows how； so as to be mildly portable； and
then proceeded to steer Modestine through the village。 She tried；
as was indeed her invariable habit； to enter every house and every
courtyard in the whole length； and； encumbered as I was； without a
hand to help myself； no words can render an idea of my
difficulties。 A priest； with six or seven others； was examining a
church in process of repair； and he and his acolytes laughed loudly
as they saw my plight。
I remembered having laughed myself when I had seen good men
struggling with adversity in the person of a jackass； and the
recollection filled me with penitence。 That was in my old light
days； before this trouble came upon me。 God knows at least that I
shall never laugh again； thought I。 But oh； what a cruel thing is
a farce to those engaged in it！
A little out of the village； Modestine； filled with the demon； set
her heart upon a by…road； and positively refused to leave it。 I
dropped all my bundles； and； I am ashamed to say； struck the poor
sinner twice across the face。 It was pitiful to see her lift her
head with shut eyes； as if waiting for another blow。 I came very
near crying； but I did a wiser thing than that； and sat squarely
down by the roadside to consider my situation under the cheerful
influence of tobacco and a nip of brandy。 Modestine； in the
meanwhile； munched some black bread with a contrite hypocritical
air。 It was plain that I must make a sacrifice to the gods of
shipwreck。 I threw away the empty bottle destined to carry milk； I
threw away my own white bread； and； disdaining to act by general
average； kept the black bread for Modestine； lastly； I threw away
the cold leg of mutton and the egg…whisk； although this last was
dear to my heart。 Thus I found room for everything in the basket；
and even stowed the boating…coat on the top。 By means of an end of
cord I slung it under one arm； and although the cord cut my
shoulder； and the jacket hung almost to the ground； it was with a
heart greatly lightened that I set forth again。
I had now an arm free to thrash Modestine； and cruelly I chastised
her。 If I were to reach the lakeside before dark； she must bestir
her little shanks to some tune。 Already the sun had gone down into
a windy…looking mist； and although there were still a few streaks
of gold far off to the east on the hills and the black fir…woods；
all was cold and grey about our onward path。 An infinity of little
country by…roads led hither and thither among the fields。 It was
the most pointless labyrinth。 I could see my destination overhead；
or rather the peak that dominates it； but choose as I pleased； the
roads always ended by turning away from it； and sneaking back
towards the valley； or northward along the margin of the hills。
The failing light； the waning colour； the naked； unhomely； stony
country through which I was travelling； threw me into some
despondency。 I promise you； the stick was not idle； I think every
decent step that Modestine took must have cost me at least two
emphatic blows。 There was not another sound in the neighbourhood
but that of my unwearying bastinado。
Suddenly； in the midst of my toils； the load once more bit the
dust； and； as by enchantment； all the cords were simultaneously
loosened； and the road scattered with my dear possessions。 The
packing was to begin again from the beginning； and as I had to
invent a new and better system； I do not doubt but I lost half an
hour。 It began to be dusk in earnest as I reached a wilderness of
turf and stones。 It had the air of being a road which should lead
everywhere at the same time； and I was falling into something not
unlike despair when I saw two figures stalking towards me over the
stones。 They walked one behind the other like tramps； but their
pace was remarkable。 The son led the way； a tall； ill…made；
sombre； Scottish…looking man； the mother followed； all in her
Sunday's best； with an elegantly embroidered ribbon to her cap； and
a new felt hat atop； and proffering； as she strode along with
kilted petticoats； a string of obscene and blasphemous oaths。
I hailed the son； and asked him my direction。 He pointed loosely
west and north…west； muttered an inaudible comment； and； without
slackening his pace for an instant； stalked on； as he was going；
right athwart my path。 The mother followed without so much as
raising her head。 I shouted and shouted after them； but they
continued to scale the hillside； and turned a deaf ear to my
outcries。 At last； leaving Modestine by herself； I was constrained
to run after them； hailing the while。 They stopped as I drew near；
the mother still cursing； and I could see she was a handsome；
motherly； respectable…looking woman。 The son once more answered me
roughly and inaudibly； and was for setting out again。 But this
time I simply collared the mother； who was nearest me； and；
apologising for my violence； declared that I could not let them go
until they had put me on my road。 They were neither of them
offended … rather mollified than otherwise； told me I had only to
follow them； and then the mother asked me what I wanted by the lake
at such an hour。 I replied； in the Scottish manner； by inquiring
if she had far to go herself。 She told me； with another oath； that
she had an hour and a half's road before her。 And then； without
salutation； the pair strode forward again up the hillside in the
gathering dusk。
I returned for Modestine； pushed her briskly forward； and； after a
sharp ascent of twenty minutes； reached the edge of a plateau。 The
view； looking back on my day's journey； was both wild and sad。
Mount Mezenc and the peaks beyond St。 Julien stood out in trenchant
gloom against a cold glitter in the east； and the intervening field
of hills had fallen together into one broad wash of shadow； except
here and there the outline of a wooded sugar…loaf in black； here
and there a white irregular patch to represent a cultivated farm；
and here and there a blot where the Loire； the Gazeille； or the
Laussonne wa