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travels with a donkey in the cevennes-第29章

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desperate engagement; I sold her; saddle and all; for five…and…

thirty。  The pecuniary gain is not obvious; but I had bought 

freedom into the bargain。



St Jean du Gard is a large place; and largely Protestant。  The 

maire; a Protestant; asked me to help him in a small matter which 

is itself characteristic of the country。  The young women of the 

Cevennes profit by the common religion and the difference of the 

language to go largely as governesses into England; and here was 

one; a native of Mialet; struggling with English circulars from two 

different agencies in London。  I gave what help I could; and 

volunteered some advice; which struck me as being excellent。



One thing more I note。  The phylloxera has ravaged the vineyards in 

this neighbourhood; and in the early morning; under some chestnuts 

by the river; I found a party of men working with a cider…press。  I 

could not at first make out what they were after; and asked one 

fellow to explain。



'Making cider;' he said。  'OUI; C'EST COMME CA。  COMME DANS LE 

NORD!'



There was a ring of sarcasm in his voice:  the country was going to 

the devil。



It was not until I was fairly seated by the driver; and rattling 

through a rocky valley with dwarf olives; that I became aware of my 

bereavement。  I had lost Modestine。  Up to that moment I had 

thought I hated her; but now she was gone;





'And oh!

The difference to me!'





For twelve days we had been fast companions; we had travelled 

upwards of a hundred and twenty miles; crossed several respectable 

ridges; and jogged along with our six legs by many a rocky and many 

a boggy by…road。  After the first day; although sometimes I was 

hurt and distant in manner; I still kept my patience; and as for 

her; poor soul! she had come to regard me as a god。  She loved to 

eat out of my hand。  She was patient; elegant in form; the colour 

of an ideal mouse; and inimitably small。  Her faults were those of 

her race and sex; her virtues were her own。  Farewell; and if for 

ever …



Father Adam wept when he sold her to me; after I had sold her in my 

turn; I was tempted to follow his example; and being alone with a 

stage…driver and four or five agreeable young men; I did not 

hesitate to yield to my emotion。









End 
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