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'It is a bad idea for a man；' said one； 'to go back from his
engagements。'
The villagers whom I saw seemed intelligent after a countrified
fashion； and were all plain and dignified in manner。 As a
Protestant myself； I was well looked upon； and my acquaintance with
history gained me further respect。 For we had something not unlike
a religious controversy at table； a gendarme and a merchant with
whom I dined being both strangers to the place； and Catholics。 The
young men of the house stood round and supported me； and the whole
discussion was tolerantly conducted； and surprised a man brought up
among the infinitesimal and contentious differences of Scotland。
The merchant； indeed； grew a little warm； and was far less pleased
than some others with my historical acquirements。 But the gendarme
was mighty easy over it all。
'It's a bad idea for a man to change；' said he； and the remark was
generally applauded。
That was not the opinion of the priest and soldier at Our Lady of
the Snows。 But this is a different race； and perhaps the same
great…heartedness that upheld them to resist； now enables them to
differ in a kind spirit。 For courage respects courage； but where a
faith has been trodden out； we may look for a mean and narrow
population。 The true work of Bruce and Wallace was the union of
the nations； not that they should stand apart a while longer；
skirmishing upon their borders； but that； when the time came； they
might unite with self…respect。
The merchant was much interested in my journey； and thought it
dangerous to sleep afield。
'There are the wolves；' said he； 'and then it is known you are an
Englishman。 The English have always long purses； and it might very
well enter into some one's head to deal you an ill blow some
night。'
I told him I was not much afraid of such accidents； and at any rate
judged it unwise to dwell upon alarms or consider small perils in
the arrangement of life。 Life itself； I submitted； was a far too
risky business as a whole to make each additional particular of
danger worth regard。 'Something；' said I； 'might burst in your
inside any day of the week； and there would be an end of you； if
you were locked into your room with three turns of the key。'
'CEPENDANT；' said he； 'COUCHER DEHORS！'
'God；' said I； 'is everywhere。'
'CEPENDANT； COUCHER DEHORS！' he repeated； and his voice was
eloquent of terror。
He was the only person； in all my voyage； who saw anything hardy in
so simple a proceeding； although many considered it superfluous。
Only one； on the other hand； professed much delight in the idea；
and that was my Plymouth Brother； who cried out； when I told him I
sometimes preferred sleeping under the stars to a close and noisy
ale…house； 'Now I see that you know the Lord！'
The merchant asked me for one of my cards as I was leaving； for he
said I should be something to talk of in the future； and desired me
to make a note of his request and reason； a desire with which I
have thus complied。
A little after two I struck across the Mimente； and took a rugged
path southward up a hillside covered with loose stones and tufts of
heather。 At the top； as is the habit of the country； the path
disappeared； and I left my she…ass munching heather； and went
forward alone to seek a road。
I was now on the separation of two vast water…sheds； behind me all
the streams were bound for the Garonne and the Western Ocean；
before me was the basin of the Rhone。 Hence； as from the Lozere；
you can see in clear weather the shining of the Gulf of Lyons； and
perhaps from here the soldiers of Salomon may have watched for the
topsails of Sir Cloudesley Shovel； and the long…promised aid from
England。 You may take this ridge as lying in the heart of the
country of the Camisards； four of the five legions camped all round
it and almost within view … Salomon and Joani to the north；
Castanet and Roland to the south； and when Julien had finished his
famous work； the devastation of the High Cevennes； which lasted all
through October and November 1703； and during which four hundred
and sixty villages and hamlets were； with fire and pickaxe； utterly
subverted； a man standing on this eminence would have looked forth
upon a silent； smokeless； and dispeopled land。 Time and man's
activity have now repaired these ruins； Cassagnas is once more
roofed and sending up domestic smoke； and in the chestnut gardens；
in low and leafy corners； many a prosperous farmer returns； when
the day's work is done； to his children and bright hearth。 And
still it was perhaps the wildest view of all my journey。 Peak upon
peak； chain upon chain of hills ran surging southward； channelled
and sculptured by the winter streams； feathered from head to foot
with chestnuts； and here and there breaking out into a coronal of
cliffs。 The sun； which was still far from setting； sent a drift of
misty gold across the hill…tops； but the valleys were already
plunged in a profound and quiet shadow。
A very old shepherd； hobbling on a pair of sticks； and wearing a
black cap of liberty； as if in honour of his nearness to the grave；
directed me to the road for St。 Germain de Calberte。 There was
something solemn in the isolation of this infirm and ancient
creature。 Where he dwelt； how he got upon this high ridge； or how
he proposed to get down again； were more than I could fancy。 Not
far off upon my right was the famous Plan de Font Morte； where Poul
with his Armenian sabre slashed down the Camisards of Seguier。
This； methought； might be some Rip van Winkle of the war； who had
lost his comrades； fleeing before Poul； and wandered ever since
upon the mountains。 It might be news to him that Cavalier had
surrendered； or Roland had fallen fighting with his back against an
olive。 And while I was thus working on my fancy； I heard him
hailing in broken tones； and saw him waving me to come back with
one of his two sticks。 I had already got some way past him； but；
leaving Modestine once more； retraced my steps。
Alas； it was a very commonplace affair。 The old gentleman had
forgot to ask the pedlar what he sold； and wished to remedy this
neglect。
I told him sternly； 'Nothing。'
'Nothing？' cried he。
I repeated 'Nothing；' and made off。
It's odd to think of； but perhaps I thus became as inexplicable to
the old man as he had been to me。
The road lay under chestnuts； and though I saw a hamlet or two
below me in the vale； and many lone houses of the chestnut farmers；
it was a very solitary march all afternoon； and the evening began
early underneath the trees。 But I heard the voice of a woman
singing some sad； old； endless ballad not far off。 It seemed to be
about love and a BEL AMOUREUX； her handsome sweetheart； and I
wished I could have taken up the strain and answered her； as I went
on