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but a few of these mysterious rustlings far and near； and the
ceaseless accompaniment of the river and the frogs。 I learned next
day that the chestnut gardens are infested by rats； rustling；
chirping； and scraping were probably all due to these； but the
puzzle； for the moment； was insoluble； and I had to compose myself
for sleep； as best I could； in wondering uncertainty about my
neighbours。
I was wakened in the grey of the morning （Monday； 30th September）
by the sound of foot…steps not far off upon the stones； and opening
my eyes； I beheld a peasant going by among the chestnuts by a
footpath that I had not hitherto observed。 He turned his head
neither to the right nor to the left； and disappeared in a few
strides among the foliage。 Here was an escape！ But it was plainly
more than time to be moving。 The peasantry were abroad； scarce
less terrible to me in my nondescript position than the soldiers of
Captain Poul to an undaunted Camisard。 I fed Modestine with what
haste I could； but as I was returning to my sack； I saw a man and a
boy come down the hillside in a direction crossing mine。 They
unintelligibly hailed me； and I replied with inarticulate but
cheerful sounds； and hurried forward to get into my gaiters。
The pair； who seemed to be father and son； came slowly up to the
plateau； and stood close beside me for some time in silence。 The
bed was open； and I saw with regret my revolver lying patently
disclosed on the blue wool。 At last； after they had looked me all
over； and the silence had grown laughably embarrassing； the man
demanded in what seemed unfriendly tones：
'You have slept here？'
'Yes；' said I。 'As you see。'
'Why？' he asked。
'My faith；' I answered lightly； 'I was tired。'
He next inquired where I was going and what I had had for dinner；
and then； without the least transition； 'C'EST BIEN；' he added；
'come along。' And he and his son； without another word； turned off
to the next chestnut…tree but one； which they set to pruning。 The
thing had passed of more simply than I hoped。 He was a grave；
respectable man； and his unfriendly voice did not imply that he
thought he was speaking to a criminal； but merely to an inferior。
I was soon on the road； nibbling a cake of chocolate and seriously
occupied with a case of conscience。 Was I to pay for my night's
lodging？ I had slept ill； the bed was full of fleas in the shape
of ants； there was no water in the room； the very dawn had
neglected to call me in the morning。 I might have missed a train；
had there been any in the neighbourhood to catch。 Clearly； I was
dissatisfied with my entertainment； and I decided I should not pay
unless I met a beggar。
The valley looked even lovelier by morning； and soon the road
descended to the level of the river。 Here； in a place where many
straight and prosperous chestnuts stood together； making an aisle
upon a swarded terrace； I made my morning toilette in the water of
the Tarn。 It was marvellously clear； thrillingly cool； the soap…
suds disappeared as if by magic in the swift current； and the white
boulders gave one a model for cleanliness。 To wash in one of God's
rivers in the open air seems to me a sort of cheerful solemnity or
semi…pagan act of worship。 To dabble among dishes in a bedroom may
perhaps make clean the body； but the imagination takes no share in
such a cleansing。 I went on with a light and peaceful heart； and
sang psalms to the spiritual ear as I advanced。
Suddenly up came an old woman； who point…blank demanded alms。
'Good；' thought I； 'here comes the waiter with the bill。'
And I paid for my night's lodging on the spot。 Take it how you
please； but this was the first and the last beggar that I met with
during all my tour。
A step or two farther I was overtaken by an old man in a brown
nightcap； clear…eyed； weather…beaten； with a faint excited smile。
A little girl followed him； driving two sheep and a goat； but she
kept in our wake； while the old man walked beside me and talked
about the morning and the valley。 It was not much past six； and
for healthy people who have slept enough； that is an hour of
expansion and of open and trustful talk。
'CONNAISSEZ…VOUS LE SEIGNEUR？' he said at length。
I asked him what Seigneur he meant； but he only repeated the
question with more emphasis and a look in his eyes denoting hope
and interest。
'Ah；' said I； pointing upwards； 'I understand you now。 Yes； I know
Him； He is the best of acquaintances。'
The old man said he was delighted。 'Hold；' he added； striking his
bosom； 'it makes me happy here。' There were a few who knew the
Lord in these valleys； he went on to tell me； not many； but a few。
'Many are called。' he quoted； 'and few chosen。'
'My father；' said I； 'it is not easy to say who know the Lord； and
it is none of our business。 Protestants and Catholics； and even
those who worship stones； may know Him and be known by Him； for He
has made all。'
I did not know I was so good a preacher。
The old man assured me he thought as I did； and repeated his
expressions of pleasure at meeting me。 'We are so few；' he said。
'They call us Moravians here； but down in the Department of Gard；
where there are also a good number； they are called Derbists； after
an English pastor。'
I began to understand that I was figuring； in questionable taste；
as a member of some sect to me unknown； but I was more pleased with
the pleasure of my companion than embarrassed by my own equivocal
position。 Indeed； I can see no dishonesty in not avowing a
difference； and especially in these high matters； where we have all
a sufficient assurance that； whoever may be in the wrong； we
ourselves are not completely in the right。 The truth is much
talked about； but this old man in a brown nightcap showed himself
so simple； sweet； and friendly； that I am not unwilling to profess
myself his convert。 He was； as a matter of fact； a Plymouth
Brother。 Of what that involves in the way of doctrine I have no
idea nor the time to inform myself； but I know right well that we
are all embarked upon a troublesome world； the children of one
Father； striving in many essential points to do and to become the
same。 And although it was somewhat in a mistake that he shook
hands with me so often and showed himself so ready to receive my
words； that was a mistake of the truth…finding sort。 For charity
begins blindfold； and only through a series of similar
misapprehensions rises at length into a settled principle of love
and patience； and a firm belief in all our fellow…men。 If I
deceived this good old man； in the like manner I would willingly go
on to deceive others。 And if ever at length； out of our separate
and sad ways； we should all come together into one common house； I
have a hope； to which I cling dearly； that my mountain P