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terrace…garden into which he dropped。
IN THE VALLEY OF THE TARN
A NEW road leads from Pont de Montvert to Florac by the valley of
the Tarn； a smooth sandy ledge； it runs about half…way between the
summit of the cliffs and the river in the bottom of the valley； and
I went in and out； as I followed it； from bays of shadow into
promontories of afternoon sun。 This was a pass like that of
Killiecrankie； a deep turning gully in the hills； with the Tarn
making a wonderful hoarse uproar far below； and craggy summits
standing in the sunshine high above。 A thin fringe of ash…trees
ran about the hill…tops； like ivy on a ruin； but on the lower
slopes； and far up every glen； the Spanish chestnut…trees stood
each four…square to heaven under its tented foliage。 Some were
planted； each on its own terrace no larger than a bed； some；
trusting in their roots； found strength to grow and prosper and be
straight and large upon the rapid slopes of the valley； others；
where there was a margin to the river； stood marshalled in a line
and mighty like cedars of Lebanon。 Yet even where they grew most
thickly they were not to be thought of as a wood； but as a herd of
stalwart individuals； and the dome of each tree stood forth
separate and large； and as it were a little hill； from among the
domes of its companions。 They gave forth a faint sweet perfume
which pervaded the air of the afternoon； autumn had put tints of
gold and tarnish in the green； and the sun so shone through and
kindled the broad foliage； that each chestnut was relieved against
another； not in shadow； but in light。 A humble sketcher here laid
down his pencil in despair。
I wish I could convey a notion of the growth of these noble trees；
of how they strike out boughs like the oak； and trail sprays of
drooping foliage like the willow； of how they stand on upright
fluted columns like the pillars of a church； or like the olive；
from the most shattered bole can put out smooth and youthful
shoots； and begin a new life upon the ruins of the old。 Thus they
partake of the nature of many different trees； and even their
prickly top…knots； seen near at hand against the sky； have a
certain palm…like air that impresses the imagination。 But their
individuality； although compounded of so many elements； is but the
richer and the more original。 And to look down upon a level filled
with these knolls of foliage； or to see a clan of old unconquerable
chestnuts cluster 'like herded elephants' upon the spur of a
mountain； is to rise to higher thoughts of the powers that are in
Nature。
Between Modestine's laggard humour and the beauty of the scene； we
made little progress all that afternoon； and at last finding the
sun； although still far from setting； was already beginning to
desert the narrow valley of the Tarn； I began to cast about for a
place to camp in。 This was not easy to find； the terraces were too
narrow； and the ground； where it was unterraced； was usually too
steep for a man to lie upon。 I should have slipped all night； and
awakened towards morning with my feet or my head in the river。
After perhaps a mile； I saw； some sixty feet above the road； a
little plateau large enough to hold my sack； and securely parapeted
by the trunk of an aged and enormous chestnut。 Thither； with
infinite trouble； I goaded and kicked the reluctant Modestine； and
there I hastened to unload her。 There was only room for myself
upon the plateau； and I had to go nearly as high again before I
found so much as standing…room for the ass。 It was on a heap of
rolling stones； on an artificial terrace； certainly not five feet
square in all。 Here I tied her to a chestnut； and having given her
corn and bread and made a pile of chestnut…leaves； of which I found
her greedy； I descended once more to my own encampment。
The position was unpleasantly exposed。 One or two carts went by
upon the road； and as long as daylight lasted I concealed myself；
for all the world like a hunted Camisard； behind my fortification
of vast chestnut trunk； for I was passionately afraid of discovery
and the visit of jocular persons in the night。 Moreover； I saw
that I must be early awake； for these chestnut gardens had been the
scene of industry no further gone than on the day before。 The
slope was strewn with lopped branches； and here and there a great
package of leaves was propped against a trunk； for even the leaves
are serviceable； and the peasants use them in winter by way of
fodder for their animals。 I picked a meal in fear and trembling；
half lying down to hide myself from the road； and I daresay I was
as much concerned as if I had been a scout from Joani's band above
upon the Lozere； or from Salomon's across the Tarn； in the old
times of psalm…singing and blood。 Or； indeed； perhaps more； for
the Camisards had a remarkable confidence in God； and a tale comes
back into my memory of how the Count of Gevaudan； riding with a
party of dragoons and a notary at his saddlebow to enforce the oath
of fidelity in all the country hamlets； entered a valley in the
woods； and found Cavalier and his men at dinner； gaily seated on
the grass； and their hats crowned with box…tree garlands； while
fifteen women washed their linen in the stream。 Such was a field
festival in 1703； at that date Antony Watteau would be painting
similar subjects。
This was a very different camp from that of the night before in the
cool and silent pine…woods。 It was warm and even stifling in the
valley。 The shrill song of frogs； like the tremolo note of a
whistle with a pea in it； rang up from the river…side before the
sun was down。 In the growing dusk； faint rustlings began to run to
and fro among the fallen leaves； from time to time a faint chirping
or cheeping noise would fall upon my ear； and from time to time I
thought I could see the movement of something swift and indistinct
between the chestnuts。 A profusion of large ants swarmed upon the
ground； bats whisked by； and mosquitoes droned overhead。 The long
boughs with their bunches of leaves hung against the sky like
garlands； and those immediately above and around me had somewhat
the air of a trellis which should have been wrecked and half
overthrown in a gale of wind。
Sleep for a long time fled my eyelids； and just as I was beginning
to feel quiet stealing over my limbs； and settling densely on my
mind； a noise at my head startled me broad awake again； and； I will
frankly confess it； brought my heart into my mouth。
It was such a noise as a person would make scratching loudly with a
finger…nail； it came from under the knapsack which served me for a
pillow； and it was thrice repeated before I had time to sit up and
turn about。 Nothing was to be seen； nothing more was to be heard；
but a few of these mysterious rustlings far and near； and the
ceaseless accomp