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mankind grossly overeat themselves； our meals serve not only for
support； but as a hearty and natural diversion from the labour of
life。 Yet； though excess may be hurtful； I should have thought
this Trappist regimen defective。 And I am astonished； as I look
back； at the freshness of face and cheerfulness of manner of all
whom I beheld。 A happier nor a healthier company I should scarce
suppose that I have ever seen。 As a matter of fact； on this bleak
upland； and with the incessant occupation of the monks； life is of
an uncertain tenure； and death no infrequent visitor； at Our Lady
of the Snows。 This； at least； was what was told me。 But if they
die easily； they must live healthily in the meantime； for they
seemed all firm of flesh and high in colour； and the only morbid
sign that I could observe； an unusual brilliancy of eye； was one
that served rather to increase the general impression of vivacity
and strength。
Those with whom I spoke were singularly sweet…tempered； with what I
can only call a holy cheerfulness in air and conversation。 There
is a note； in the direction to visitors； telling them not to be
offended at the curt speech of those who wait upon them； since it
is proper to monks to speak little。 The note might have been
spared； to a man the hospitallers were all brimming with innocent
talk； and； in my experience of the monastery； it was easier to
begin than to break off a conversation。 With the exception of
Father Michael； who was a man of the world； they showed themselves
full of kind and healthy interest in all sorts of subjects … in
politics； in voyages； in my sleeping…sack … and not without a
certain pleasure in the sound of their own voices。
As for those who are restricted to silence； I can only wonder how
they bear their solemn and cheerless isolation。 And yet； apart
from any view of mortification； I can see a certain policy； not
only in the exclusion of women； but in this vow of silence。 I have
had some experience of lay phalansteries； of an artistic； not to
say a bacchanalian character； and seen more than one association
easily formed and yet more easily dispersed。 With a Cistercian
rule； perhaps they might have lasted longer。 In the neighbourhood
of women it is but a touch…and…go association that can be formed
among defenceless men； the stronger electricity is sure to triumph；
the dreams of boyhood； the schemes of youth； are abandoned after an
interview of ten minutes； and the arts and sciences； and
professional male jollity； deserted at once for two sweet eyes and
a caressing accent。 And next after this； the tongue is the great
divider。
I am almost ashamed to pursue this worldly criticism of a religious
rule； but there is yet another point in which the Trappist order
appeals to me as a model of wisdom。 By two in the morning the
clapper goes upon the bell； and so on； hour by hour； and sometimes
quarter by quarter； till eight； the hour of rest； so
infinitesimally is the day divided among different occupations。
The man who keeps rabbits； for example； hurries from his hutches to
the chapel； the chapter…room； or the refectory； all day long：
every hour he has an office to sing； a duty to perform； from two；
when he rises in the dark； till eight； when he returns to receive
the comfortable gift of sleep； he is upon his feet and occupied
with manifold and changing business。 I know many persons； worth
several thousands in the year； who are not so fortunate in the
disposal of their lives。 Into how many houses would not the note
of the monastery bell； dividing the day into manageable portions；
bring peace of mind and healthful activity of body！ We speak of
hardships； but the true hardship is to be a dull fool； and
permitted to mismanage life in our own dull and foolish manner。
From this point of view； we may perhaps better understand the
monk's existence。 A long novitiate and every proof of constancy of
mind and strength of body is required before admission to the
order； but I could not find that many were discouraged。 In the
photographer's studio； which figures so strangely among the
outbuildings； my eye was attracted by the portrait of a young
fellow in the uniform of a private of foot。 This was one of the
novices； who came of the age for service； and marched and drilled
and mounted guard for the proper time among the garrison of
Algiers。 Here was a man who had surely seen both sides of life
before deciding； yet as soon as he was set free from service he
returned to finish his novitiate。
This austere rule entitles a man to heaven as by right。 When the
Trappist sickens； he quits not his habit； he lies in the bed of
death as he has prayed and laboured in his frugal and silent
existence； and when the Liberator comes； at the very moment； even
before they have carried him in his robe to lie his little last in
the chapel among continual chantings； joy…bells break forth； as if
for a marriage； from the slated belfry； and proclaim throughout the
neighbourhood that another soul has gone to God。
At night； under the conduct of my kind Irishman； I took my place in
the gallery to hear compline and SALVE REGINA； with which the
Cistercians bring every day to a conclusion。 There were none of
those circumstances which strike the Protestant as childish or as
tawdry in the public offices of Rome。 A stern simplicity；
heightened by the romance of the surroundings； spoke directly to
the heart。 I recall the whitewashed chapel； the hooded figures in
the choir； the lights alternately occluded and revealed； the strong
manly singing； the silence that ensued； the sight of cowled heads
bowed in prayer； and then the clear trenchant beating of the bell；
breaking in to show that the last office was over and the hour of
sleep had come； and when I remember； I am not surprised that I made
my escape into the court with somewhat whirling fancies； and stood
like a man bewildered in the windy starry night。
But I was weary； and when I had quieted my spirits with Elizabeth
Seton's memoirs … a dull work … the cold and the raving of the wind
among the pines （for my room was on that side of the monastery
which adjoins the woods） disposed me readily to slumber。 I was
wakened at black midnight； as it seemed； though it was really two
in the morning； by the first stroke upon the bell。 All the
brothers were then hurrying to the chapel； the dead in life； at
this untimely hour； were already beginning the uncomforted labours
of their day。 The dead in life … there was a chill reflection。
And the words of a French song came back into my memory； telling of
the best of our mixed existence：
'Que t'as de belles filles；
Girofle！
Girofla！
Que t'as de belles filles；
L'AMOUR LET COMPTERA！'
And I blessed God that I was free to wander； free to hope； and free
to love。
THE BO