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by the blaze。
The husband had begun life as a muleteer； and when I came to charge
Modestine showed himself full of the prudence of his art。 'You
will have to change this package；' said he； 'it ought to be in two
parts； and then you might have double the weight。'
I explained that I wanted no more weight； and for no donkey
hitherto created would I cut my sleeping…bag in two。
'It fatigues her； however；' said the innkeeper； 'it fatigues her
greatly on the march。 Look。'
Alas； there were her two forelegs no better than raw beef on the
inside； and blood was running from under her tail。 They told me
when I started； and I was ready to believe it； that before a few
days I should come to love Modestine like a dog。 Three days had
passed； we had shared some misadventures； and my heart was still as
cold as a potato towards my beast of burden。 She was pretty enough
to look at； but then she had given proof of dead stupidity；
redeemed indeed by patience； but aggravated by flashes of sorry and
ill…judged light…heartedness。 And I own this new discovery seemed
another point against her。 What the devil was the good of a she…
ass if she could not carry a sleeping…bag and a few necessaries？ I
saw the end of the fable rapidly approaching； when I should have to
carry Modestine。 AEsop was the man to know the world！ I assure
you I set out with heavy thoughts upon my short day's march。
It was not only heavy thoughts about Modestine that weighted me
upon the way； it was a leaden business altogether。 For first； the
wind blew so rudely that I had to hold on the pack with one hand
from Cheylard to Luc； and second； my road lay through one of the
most beggarly countries in the world。 It was like the worst of the
Scottish Highlands； only worse； cold； naked； and ignoble； scant of
wood； scant of heather； scant of life。 A road and some fences
broke the unvarying waste； and the line of the road was marked by
upright pillars； to serve in time of snow。
Why any one should desire to visit either Luc or Cheylard is more
than my much…inventing spirit can suppose。 For my part； I travel
not to go anywhere； but to go。 I travel for travel's sake。 The
great affair is to move； to feel the needs and hitches of our life
more nearly； to come down off this feather…bed of civilisation； and
find the globe granite underfoot and strewn with cutting flints。
Alas； as we get up in life； and are more preoccupied with our
affairs； even a holiday is a thing that must be worked for。 To
hold a pack upon a pack…saddle against a gale out of the freezing
north is no high industry； but it is one that serves to occupy and
compose the mind。 And when the present is so exacting； who can
annoy himself about the future？
I came out at length above the Allier。 A more unsightly prospect
at this season of the year it would be hard to fancy。 Shelving
hills rose round it on all sides； here dabbled with wood and
fields； there rising to peaks alternately naked and hairy with
pines。 The colour throughout was black or ashen； and came to a
point in the ruins of the castle of Luc； which pricked up
impudently from below my feet； carrying on a pinnacle a tall white
statue of Our Lady； which； I heard with interest； weighed fifty
quintals； and was to be dedicated on the 6th of October。 Through
this sorry landscape trickled the Allier and a tributary of nearly
equal size； which came down to join it through a broad nude valley
in Vivarais。 The weather had somewhat lightened； and the clouds
massed in squadron； but the fierce wind still hunted them through
heaven； and cast great ungainly splashes of shadow and sunlight
over the scene。
Luc itself was a straggling double file of houses wedged between
hill and river。 It had no beauty； nor was there any notable
feature； save the old castle overhead with its fifty quintals of
brand…new Madonna。 But the inn was clean and large。 The kitchen；
with its two box…beds hung with clean check curtains； with its wide
stone chimney； its chimney…shelf four yards long and garnished with
lanterns and religious statuettes； its array of chests and pair of
ticking clocks； was the very model of what a kitchen ought to be； a
melodrama kitchen； suitable for bandits or noblemen in disguise。
Nor was the scene disgraced by the landlady； a handsome； silent；
dark old woman； clothed and hooded in black like a nun。 Even the
public bedroom had a character of its own； with the long deal
tables and benches； where fifty might have dined； set out as for a
harvest…home； and the three box…beds along the wall。 In one of
these； lying on straw and covered with a pair of table…napkins； did
I do penance all night long in goose…flesh and chattering teeth；
and sigh； from time to time as I awakened； for my sheepskin sack
and the lee of some great wood。
OUR LADY OF THE SNOWS
'I behold
The House； the Brotherhood austere …
And what am I； that I am here？'
MATTHEW ARNOLD。
FATHER APOLLINARIS
NEXT morning （Thursday； 20th September） I took the road in a new
order。 The sack was no longer doubled； but hung at full length
across the saddle； a green sausage six feet long with a tuft of
blue wool hanging out of either end。 It was more picturesque； it
spared the donkey； and； as I began to see； it would ensure
stability； blow high； blow low。 But it was not without a pang that
I had so decided。 For although I had purchased a new cord； and
made all as fast as I was able； I was yet jealously uneasy lest the
flaps should tumble out and scatter my effects along the line of
march。
My way lay up the bald valley of the river； along the march of
Vivarais and Gevaudan。 The hills of Gevaudan on the right were a
little more naked； if anything； than those of Vivarais upon the
left； and the former had a monopoly of a low dotty underwood that
grew thickly in the gorges and died out in solitary burrs upon the
shoulders and the summits。 Black bricks of fir…wood were plastered
here and there upon both sides； and here and there were cultivated
fields。 A railway ran beside the river； the only bit of railway in
Gevaudan； although there are many proposals afoot and surveys being
made； and even； as they tell me； a station standing ready built in
Mende。 A year or two hence and this may be another world。 The
desert is beleaguered。 Now may some Languedocian Wordsworth turn
the sonnet into PATOIS： 'Mountains and vales and floods； heard YE
that whistle？'
At a place called La Bastide I was directed to leave the river； and
follow a road that mounted on the left among the hills of Vivarais；
the modern Ardeche； for I was now come within a little way of my
strange destination； the Trappist monastery of Our Lady of the
Snows。 The sun came out as I left the shelter of a pine…wood； and
I beheld suddenly a fine wild landscape