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nearly land…locked； was sheltered from every wind。 A small island；
every inch of which was covered with fortifications； appeared to
swim upon the waters； whose dark blue denoted their immense depth；
tall green hills； which ascended gradually from the shore； formed
the background to the west； they were carpeted to the top with turf
of the most vivid green； and studded here and there with woods；
seemingly of oak； there was a strange old castle half…way up the
ascent； a village on a crag … but the mists of morning were half
veiling the scene when I surveyed it； and the mists of time are now
hanging densely between it and my no longer youthful eye； I may not
describe it； … nor will I try。
Leaving the ship in the cove； we passed up a wide river in boats
till we came to a city； where we disembarked。 It was a large city；
as large as Edinburgh to my eyes； there were plenty of fine houses；
but little neatness； the streets were full of impurities； handsome
equipages rolled along； but the greater part of the population were
in rags； beggars abounded； there was no lack of merriment； however；
boisterous shouts of laughter were heard on every side。 It
appeared a city of contradictions。 After a few days' rest we
marched from this place in two divisions。 My father commanded the
second； I walked by his side。
Our route lay up the country； the country at first offered no very
remarkable feature； it was pretty； but tame。 On the second day；
however； its appearance had altered； it had become more wild； a
range of distant mountains bounded the horizon。 We passed through
several villages； as I suppose I may term them； of low huts； the
walls formed of rough stones without mortar； the roof of flags laid
over wattles and wicker…work； they seemed to be inhabited solely by
women and children； the latter were naked； the former； in general；
blear…eyed beldames； who sat beside the doors on low stools；
spinning。 We saw； however； both men and women working at a
distance in the fields。
I was thirsty； and going up to an ancient crone； employed in the
manner which I have described； I asked her for water； she looked me
in the face； appeared to consider a moment； then tottering into her
hut； presently reappeared with a small pipkin of milk； which she
offered to me with a trembling hand。 I drank the milk； it was
sour； but I found it highly refreshing。 I then took out a penny
and offered it to her； whereupon she shook her head； smiled； and；
patting my face with her skinny hand； murmured some words in a
tongue which I had never heard before。
I walked on by my father's side； holding the stirrup…leather of his
horse； presently several low uncouth cars passed by； drawn by
starved cattle： the drivers were tall fellows； with dark features
and athletic frames … they wore long loose blue cloaks with
sleeves； which last； however； dangled unoccupied： these cloaks
appeared in tolerably good condition； not so their under garments。
On their heads were broad slouching hats： the generality of them
were bare…footed。 As they passed； the soldiers jested with them in
the patois of East Anglia； whereupon the fellows laughed； and
appeared to jest with the soldiers； but what they said who knows；
it being in a rough guttural language； strange and wild。 The
soldiers stared at each other； and were silent。
'A strange language that！' said a young officer to my father； 'I
don't understand a word of it； what can it be？'
'Irish！' said my father； with a loud voice； 'and a bad language it
is； I have known it of old； that is； I have often heard it spoken
when I was a guardsman in London。 There's one part of London where
all the Irish live … at least all the worst of them … and there
they hatch their villainies and speak this tongue； it is that which
keeps them together and makes them dangerous： I was once sent
there to seize a couple of deserters … Irish … who had taken refuge
amongst their companions； we found them in what was in my time
called a ken； that is a house where only thieves and desperadoes
are to be found。 Knowing on what kind of business I was bound； I
had taken with me a sergeant's party； it was well I did so。 We
found the deserters in a large room； with at least thirty ruffians；
horrid…looking fellows； seated about a long table； drinking；
swearing； and talking Irish。 Ah！ we had a tough battle； I
remember； the two fellows did nothing； but sat still； thinking it
best to be quiet； but the rest； with an ubbubboo like the blowing
up of a powder…magazine； sprang up； brandishing their sticks； for
these fellows always carry sticks with them even to bed； and not
unfrequently spring up in their sleep； striking left and right。'
'And did you take the deserters？' said the officer。
'Yes；' said my father； 'for we formed at the end of the room； and
charged with fixed bayonets； which compelled the others to yield
notwithstanding their numbers； but the worst was when we got out
into the street； the whole district had become alarmed； and
hundreds came pouring down upon us … men； women； and children。
Women； did I say！ … they looked fiends； half naked； with their hair
hanging down over their bosoms； they tore up the very pavement to
hurl at us； sticks rang about our ears； stones； and Irish … I liked
the Irish worst of all； it sounded so horrid； especially as I did
not understand it。 It's a bad language。'
'A queer tongue；' said I； 'I wonder if I could learn it。'
'Learn it！' said my father； 'what should you learn it for？ …
however； I am not afraid of that。 It is not like Scotch； no person
can learn it； save those who are born to it； and even in Ireland
the respectable people do not speak it； only the wilder sort； like
those we have passed。'
Within a day or two we had reached a tall range of mountains
running north and south； which I was told were those of Tipperary；
along the skirts of these we proceeded till we came to a town； the
principal one of these regions。 It was on the bank of a beautiful
river； which separated it from the mountains。 It was rather an
ancient place； and might contain some ten thousand inhabitants … I
found that it was our destination； there were extensive barracks at
the farther end； in which the corps took up its quarters； with
respect to ourselves； we took lodgings in a house which stood in
the principal street。
'You never saw more elegant lodgings than these； captain；' said the
master of the house； a tall； handsome； and athletic man； who came
up whilst our little family were seated at dinner late in the
afternoon of the day of our arrival； 'they beat anything in this
town of Clonmel。 I do not let them for the sake of interest； and
to none but gentlemen in the army； in order that myself and my
wife； who is from Londonderry； may have the advantage of pleasant
company； genteel company； ay； and Prote