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shriveled mimosas； cacti； and dwarf palms。 Twenty yards away； along the
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course of a ravine； stones were gleaming whitely like a long line of
scattered bones。 They told me that was the bed of a stream。
I had been fifteen days in Sicily。 On coming into the Bay of Palermo
which opens between the two mighty naked masses of the Pelligrino and
the Catalfano； and extends inward along the 〃Golden Conch〃the view
inspired me with such admiration that I resolved to travel a little in this
island； so ennobled by historic memories； and rendered so beautiful by the
outlines of its hills； which reveal the principles of Greek art。 Old pilgrim
though I was； grown hoary in the Gothic OccidentI dared to venture
upon that classic soil； and； securing a guide； I went from Palermo to
Trapani； from Trapani to Selinonte； from Selinonte to Sciaccawhich I left
this morning to go to Girgenti； where I am to find the MS。 of Clerk
Alexander。 The beautiful things I have seen are still so vivid in my mind
that I feel the task of writing them would be a useless fatigue。 Why spoil
my pleasure…trip by collecting notes？ Lovers who love truly do not write
down their happiness。
Wholly absorbed by the melancholy of the present and the poetry of
the past； my thoughts people with beautiful shapes； and my eyes ever
gratified by the pure and harmonious lines of the landscape； I was resting
in the tavern at Monte…Allegro； sipping a glass of heavy； fiery wine； when
I saw two persons enter the waiting…room； whom； after a moment's
hesitation； I recognised as the Prince and Princess Trepof。
This time I saw the princess in the lightand what a light！ He who has
known that of Sicily can better comprehend the words of Sophocles： 〃Oh
holy light！。。。 Eye of the Golden Day！〃 Madame Trepof； dressed in a
brown…holland and wearing a broad…brimmed straw hat； appeared to me a
very pretty woman of about twenty…eight。 Her eyes were luminous as a
child's； but her slightly plump chin indicated the age of plenitude。 She is； I
must confess it； quite an attractive person。 She is supple and changeful；
her mood is like water itselfand； thank Heaven！ I am no navigator。 I
thought I discerned in her manner a sort of ill…humour； which I attributed
presently； by reason of some observations she uttered at random； to the
fact that she had met no brigands upon her route。
〃Such things only happen to us！〃 she exclaimed； with a gesture of
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discouragement。
She called for a glass of iced water； which the landlord presented to
her with a gesture that recalled to me those scenes of funeral offerings
painted upon Greek vases。
I was in no hurry to introduce myself to a lady who had so abruptly
dropped my acquaintance in the public square at Naples； but she perceived
me in my corner； and her frown notified me very plainly that our
accidental meeting was disagreeable to her。
After she had sipper her ice…water for a few momentswhether
because her whim had suddenly changed； or because my loneliness
aroused her pity； I did not knowshe walked directly to me。
〃Good…day； Monsieur Bonnard；〃 she said。 〃How do you do？ What
strange chance enables us to meet again in this frightful country？〃
〃This country is not frightful； Madame；〃 I replied。 〃Beauty is so great
and so august a quality that centuries of barbarism cannot efface it so
completely that adorable vestiges of it will not always remain。 The
majesty of the antique Ceres still overshadows these arid valleys； and that
Greek Muse who made Arethusa and Maenalus ring with her divine
accents； still sings for my ears upon the barren mountain and in the place
of the dried…up spring。 Yes； Madame； when our globe； no longer inhabited；
shall； like the moon； roll a wan corpse through space； the soil which bears
the ruins of Selinonte will still keep the seal of beauty in the midst of
universal death； and then； then； at least there will be no frivolous mouth to
blaspheme the grandeur of these solitudes。〃
I knew well enough that my words were beyond the comprehension of
the pretty little empty…head which heard them。 But an old fellow like
myself who has worn out his life over books does not know how to adapt
his tone to circumstances。 Besides I wished to give Madame Trepof a
lesson in politeness。 She received it with so much submission； and with
such an air of comprehension； that I hastened to add； as good…naturedly as
possible；
〃As to whether the chance which has enabled me to meet you again be
lucky or unlucky； I cannot decide the question until I am sure that my
presence be not disagreeable to you。 You appeared to become weary of my
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company very suddenly at Naples the other day。 I can only attribute that
misfortune to my naturally unpleasant mannersince； on that occasion； I
had had the honour of meeting you for the first time in my life。〃
These words seem to cause her inexplicable joy。 She smiled upon me
in the most gracious； mischievous way； and said very earnestly； holding
out her hand； which I touched with my lips；
〃Monsieur Bonnard； do not refuse to accept a seat in my carriage。 You
can chat with me on the way about antiquity； and that will amuse me ever
so much。〃
〃My dear；〃 exclaimed the prince； 〃you can do just as you please； but
you ought to remember that one is horribly cramped in that carriage of
yours； and I fear that you are only offering Monsieur Bonnard the chance
of getting a frightful attack of lumbago。〃
Madame Trepof simply shook her head by way of explaining that such
considerations had no weight with her whatever； then she untied her hat。
The darkness of her black curls descended over her eyes； and bathed them
in velvety shadow。 She remained a little while quite motionless； and her
face assumed a surprising expression of reverie。 But all of a sudden she
darted at some