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flying machines-第11章

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steerable; except to a limited extent; and moves only in

one directionagainst the wind。 Besides this its power

of flotationsuspension in the airis circumscribed。



Larger Surface Area Required。



The real flying machine is the glider enlarged; and

equipped with motor and propeller。 The first thing to

do is to decide upon the size required。 While a glider

of 20 foot spread is large enough to sustain a man it

could not under any possible conditions; be made to rise

with the weight of the motor; propeller and similar

equipment added。 As the load is increased so must the

surface area of the planes be increased。 Just what this

increase in surface area should be is problematical as

experienced aviators disagree; but as a general proposition

it may be placed at from three to four times the area of

a 20…foot glider。'3'



'3' See Chapter XXV。



Some Practical Examples。



The Wrights used a biplane 41 feet in spread; and 6 1/2

ft。 deep。 This; for the two planes; gives a total surface

area of 538 square feet; inclusive of auxiliary planes。

This sustains the engine equipment; operator; etc。; a total

weight officially announced at 1;070 pounds。 It shows

a lifting capacity of about two pounds to the square

foot of plane surface; as against a lifting capacity of

about 1/2 pound per square foot of plane surface for the

20…foot glider。 This same Wright machine is also reported

to have made a successful flight; carrying a total

load of 1;100 pounds; which would be over two pounds

for each square foot of surface area; which; with auxiliary

planes; is 538 square feet。



To attain the same results in a monoplane; the single

surface would have to be 60 feet in spread and 9 feet

deep。 But; while this is the mathematical rule; Bleriot

has demonstrated that it does not always hold good。

On his record…breaking trip across the English channel;

July 25th; 1909; the Frenchman was carried in a

monoplane 24 1/2 feet in spread; and with a total sustaining

surface of 150 1/2 square feet。 The total weight of

the outfit; including machine; operator and fuel sufficient

for a three…hour run; was only 660 pounds。 With

an engine of (nominally) 25 horsepower the distance of

21 miles was covered in 37 minutes。



Which is the Best?



Right here an established mathematical quantity is

involved。 A small plane surface offers less resistance

to the air than a large one and consequently can attain

a higher rate of speed。 As explained further on in this

chapter speed is an important factor in the matter of

weight…sustaining capacity。 A machine that travels one…

third faster than another can get along with one…half the

surface area of the latter without affecting the load。 See

the closing paragraph of this chapter on this point。 In

theory the construction is also the simplest; but this is

not always found to be so in practice。 The designing

and carrying into execution of plans for an extensive

area like that of a monoplane involves great skill and

cleverness in getting a framework that will be strong

enough to furnish the requisite support without an undue excess

of weight。 This proposition is greatly simplified

in the biplane and; while the speed attained by the latter

may not be quite so great as that of the monoplane; it

has much larger weight…carrying capacity。



Proper Sizes For Frame。



Allowing that the biplane form is selected the construction

may be practically identical with that of the

20…foot glider described in Chapter V。; except as to size

and elimination of the armpieces。 In size the surface

planes should be about twice as large as those of the

20…foot glider; viz: 40 feet spread instead of 20; and 6 feet

deep instead of 3。 The horizontal beams; struts; stanchions;

ribs; etc。; should also be increased in size proportionately。



While care in the selection of clear; straight…grained

timber is important in the glider; it is still more important

in the construction of a motor…equipped flying

machine as the strain on the various parts will be much

greater。



How to Splice Timbers。



It is practically certain that you will have to resort to

splicing the horizontal beams as it will be difficult; if not

impossible; to find 40…foot pieces of timber totally free

from knots and worm holes; and of straight grain。



If splicing is necessary select two good 20…foot pieces;

3 inches wide and 1 1/2 inches thick; and one 10…foot long;

of the same thickness and width。 Plane off the bottom

sides of the 10…foot strip; beginning about two feet back

from each end; and taper them so the strip will be about

3/4 inch thick at the extreme ends。 Lay the two 20…foot

beams end to end; and under the joint thus made place

the 10…foot strip; with the planed…off ends downward。

The joint of the 20…foot pieces should be directly in the

center of the 10…foot piece。 Bore ten holes (with a 1/4…

inch augur) equi…distant apart through the 20…foot

strips and the 10…foot strip under them。 Through these

holes run 1/4…inch stove bolts with round; beveled heads。

In placing these bolts use washers top and bottom; one

between the head and the top beam; and the other between

the bottom beam and the screw nut which holds

the bolt。 Screw the nuts down hard so as to bring the

two beams tightly together; and you will have a rigid

40…foot beam。



Splicing with Metal Sleeves。



An even better way of making a splice is by tonguing

and grooving the ends of the frame pieces and enclosing

them in a metal sleeve; but it requires more mechanical

skill than the method first named。 The operation of

tonguing and grooving is especially delicate and calls

for extreme nicety of touch in the handling of tools; but

if this dexterity is possessed the job will be much more

satisfactory than one done with a third timber。



As the frame pieces are generally about 1 1/2 inch in

diameter; the tongue and the groove into which the

tongue fits must be correspondingly small。 Begin by

sawing into one side of one of the frame pieces about 4

inches back from the end。 Make the cut about 1/2 inch

deep。 Then turn the piece over and duplicate the cut。

Next saw down from the end to these cuts。 When the

sawed…out parts are removed you will have a 〃tongue〃

in the end of the frame timber 4 inches long and 1/2 inch

thick。 The next move is to saw out a 5/8…inch groove in

the end of the frame piece which is to be joined。 You

will have to use a small chisel to remove the 5/8…inch bit。

This will leave a groove into which the tongue will fit

easily。



Joining the Two Pieces。



Take a thin metal sleevethis is merely a hollow tube

of aluminum or brass open at each end8 inches long;

and slip it over either the tongued or grooved end of one

of the frame timbers。 It is well to have the sleeve fit

snugly; and this may necessitate a sand…papering of the

frame pieces so the sleeve will slip on。



Push the sleeve well back out of the way。
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