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At eleven o'clock the next morning； court carriages having taken
us over to the palace； we were going up the grand staircase in
full force when who should appear at the top； on his way down；
but the Spanish ambassador with his suite！ Both of us were； of
course； embarrassed。 No doubt he felt； as I did； that it would
have been more agreeable just then to meet the representative of
any other power than of that with which war had just been
declared； but I put out my hand and addressed him； if not so
cordially as usual； at least in a kindly way； he reciprocated the
greeting； and our embarrassment was at least lessened。 Of course；
during the continuation of the war； our relations lacked their
former cordiality； but we remained personally friendly。
In my brief speech on delivering President McKinley's letter I
tendered to the King and Queen the President's congratulations；
with thanks for the courtesies which had been shown to my
countrymen。 This was not the first occasion on which I had
discharged this latter duty； for； at a formal presentation to
these sovereigns some time before； I had taken pains to show that
we were not unmindful of their kindness to our compatriots。 The
festivities which followed were interesting。 There were dinners
with high state officials； gala opera； and historical
representations； given by the city of Dresden； of a very
beautiful character。 On these occasions I met various eminent
personages； among others the Emperor of Austria and his prime
minister； Count Goluchowsky； both of whom discussed current
international topics with clearness and force； and I also had
rather an interesting conversation with the papal nuncio at
Munich； more recently in Paris； Lorenzelli； with reference to
various measures looking to the possible abridgment of the war。
On the third day of the festivities came a great review； and a
sight somewhat rare。 To greet the King there were present the
Emperor of Germany； the Emperor of Austria； and various minor
German sovereigns； each of whom had in the Saxon army a regiment
nominally his own； and led it past the Saxon monarch； saluting
him as he reviewed it。 The two Emperors certainly discharged this
duty in a very handsome； chivalric sort of way。 In the evening
came a great dinner at the palace； at which the King and Queen
presided。 The only speech on the occasion was one of
congratulation made by the Emperor of Austria； and it was very
creditable to him； being to all appearance extemporaneous； yet
well worded； quiet； dignified； and manly。 The ceremonies closed
on Sunday with a grand 〃Te Deum〃 at the palace church； in the
presence of all the majesties；the joy expressed by the music
being duly accentuated by cannon outside。
I may say； before closing this subject； that Thomas Jefferson's
famous letter to Governor Langdon； describing royal personages as
he knew them while minister to France before the French
Revolution； no longer applies。 The events which followed the
Revolution taught the crowned heads of Europe that they could no
longer indulge in the good old Bourbon； Hapsburg； and Braganza
idleness and stupidity。 Modern European sovereigns； almost
without exception； work for their living； and work hard。 Few
business men go through a more severe training； or a longer and
harder day of steady work； than do most of the contemporary
sovereigns of Europe。 This fact especially struck me on my
presentation； about this time； to one of the best of the minor
monarchs； the King of Wurtemberg。 I found him a hearty； strong；
active…minded manthe sort of man whom we in America would call
〃level…headed〃 and 〃a worker。〃 Learning that I had once passed a
winter in Stuttgart； he detained me long with a most interesting
account of the improvements which had been made in the city since
my visit； and showed public spirit of a sort very different from
that which animated the minor potentates of Germany in the last
century。 The same may be said of the Grand Duke of Baden； who； in
a long conversation； impressed me as a gentleman of large and
just views； understanding the problems of his time and thoroughly
in sympathy with the best men and movements。
Republican as I am； this acknowledgment must be made。 The
historical lessons of the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries；
and the pressure of democracy； are obliging the monarchs of
Europe to fit themselves for their duties wisely and to discharge
them intelligently。 But this is true only of certain ruling
houses。 There seems to be a 〃survival of the fittest。〃 At various
periods in my life I have also had occasion to observe with some
care various pretenders to European thrones； among them the
husband of Queen Isabella of Spain； Prince Napoleon Victor； the
heir to the Napoleonic throne； the Duke of Orleans； Don Carlos；
the representative of the Spanish Bourbons； with sundry others；
and it would be hard to conceive persons more utterly unfit or
futile。
As to the conduct of Germany during our war with Spain； while the
press； with two or three exceptions； was anything but friendly；
and while a large majority of the people were hostile to us on
account of the natural sympathy with a small power battling
against a larger one； the course of the Imperial Government；
especially of the Foreign Office under Count von Bulow and Baron
von Richthofen； was all that could be desired。 Indeed； they went
so far on one occasion as almost to alarm us。 The American consul
at Hamburg having notified me by telephone that a Spanish vessel；
supposed to be loaded with arms for use against us in Cuba； was
about to leave that port； I hastened to the Foreign Office and
urged that vigorous steps be taken； with the result that the
vessel； which in the meantime had left Hamburg； was overhauled
and searched at the mouth of the Elbe。 The German Government
might easily have pleaded； in answer to my request； that the
American Government had generally shown itself opposed to any
such interference with the shipments of small arms to
belligerents； and had contended that it was not obliged to search
vessels to find such contraband of war； but that this duty was
incumbent upon the belligerent nation concerned。 This evidence of
the fairness of Germany I took pains to make known； and in my
address at the American celebration in Leipsic on the Fourth of
July declared my belief that the hostility of the German people
and press at large was only temporary； and that the old good
relations would be restored。 Knowing that my speech would be
wide