按键盘上方向键 ← 或 → 可快速上下翻页，按键盘上的 Enter 键可回到本书目录页，按键盘上方向键 ↑ 可回到本页顶部！
————未阅读完？加入书签已便下次继续阅读！
have been powerful aid from Pobedonostzeff。 So much of goodand；
indeed； of great good we may attribute to him as highly
probable； if not certain。
But； on the other hand； there would seem to be equal reason for
attributing to him； in these latter days； a fearful mass of evil。
To say nothing of the policy of Russia in Poland and elsewhere；
her dealings with Finland thus far form one of the blackest spots
on the history of the empire。 Whether he originated this iniquity
or not is uncertain； but when； in 1892； I first saw the new
Russian cathedral rising on the heights above Helsingfors；a
structure vastly more imposing than any warranted by the small
number of the 〃orthodox〃 in Finland；with its architecture of
the old Muscovite type； symbolical of fetishism； I could not but
recognize his hand in it。 It seemed clear to me that here was the
beginning of religious aggression on the Lutheran Finlanders；
which must logically be followed by political and military
aggression； and； in view of his agency in this as in everything
reactionary； I did not wonder at the attempt to assassinate him
not long afterward。
During my recent stay in Germany he visited me at the Berlin
Embassy。 He was； as of old； apparently gentle； kindly； interested
in literature； not interested to any great extent in current
Western politics。 This gentle； kindly manner of his brought back
forcibly to my mind a remark of one of the most cultivated women
I met in Russia； a princess of ancient lineage； who ardently
desired reasonable reforms； and who； when I mentioned to her a
report that Pobedonostzeff was weary of political life； and was
about to retire from office in order to devote himself to
literary pursuits； said： 〃Don't； I beg of you； tell me that； for
I have always noticed that whenever such a report is circulated；
it is followed by some new scheme of his； even more infernal than
those preceding it。〃
So much for the man who； during the present reign； seems one of
the main agents in holding Russian policy on the road to ruin。 He
is indeed a study。 The descriptive epithet which clings to
him〃the Torquemada of the nineteenth century〃he once
discussed with me in no unkindly spirit； indeed； in as gentle a
spirit as can well be conceived。 His life furnishes a most
interesting study in churchmanship； in statesmanship； and in
human nature； and shows how some of the men most severely
condemned by modern historiansgreat persecutors； inquisitors；
and the likemay have based their actions on theories the world
has little understood； and may have had as little conscious
ferocity as their more tolerant neighbors。
CHAPTER XXXVII
WALKS AND TALES WITH TOLSTOIMARCH； 1894
Revisiting Moscow after an absence of thirty…five years； the most
surprising thing to me was that there had been so little change。
With the exception of the new gallery of Russian art； and the
bazaar opposite the sacred gate of the Kremlin； things seemed as
I had left them just after the accession of Alexander II。 There
were the same unkempt streets； the same peasantry clad in
sheepskins； the same troops of beggars； sturdy and dirty； the
same squalid crowds crossing themselves before the images at the
street corners； the same throngs of worshipers knocking their
heads against the pavements of churches； and above all loomed；
now as then； the tower of Ivan and the domes of St。 Basil；
gloomy； gaudy； and barbaric。 Only one change had taken place
which interested me： for the first time in the history of Russia；
a man of world…wide fame in literature and thought was abiding
thereCount Leo Tolstoi。
On the evening of my arrival I went with my secretary to his
weekly reception。 As we entered his house on the outskirts of the
city； two servants in evening dress came forward； removed our fur
coats； and opened the doors into the reception…room of the
master。 Then came a surprise。 His living…room seemed the cabin of
a Russian peasant。 It was wainscoted almost rudely and furnished
very simply； and there approached us a tall； gaunt Russian；
unmistakably born to command； yet clad as a peasant； his hair
thrown back over his ears on either side； his flowing blouse kept
together by a leathern girdle； his high jack…boots completing the
costume。 This was Tolstoi。
Nothing could be more kindly than his greeting。 While his dress
was that of a peasant； his bearing was the very opposite； for；
instead of the depressed； demure； hangdog expression of the
average muzhik； his manner； though cordial； was dignified and
impressive。 Having given us a hearty welcome； he made us
acquainted with various other guests。 It was a singular
assemblage。 There were foreigners in evening dress； Moscow
professors in any dress they liked； and a certain number of
youth； evidently disciples； who； though clearly not of the
peasant class； wore the peasant costume。 I observed these with
interest but certainly as long as they were under the spell of
the master they communicated nothing worth preserving； they
seemed to show 〃the contortions of the sibyl without the
inspiration。〃
The professors were much more engaging。 The University of Moscow
has in its teaching body several strong men； and some of these
were present。 One of them； whose department was philosophy；
especially interested and encouraged me by assurances that the
movement of Russian philosophy is 〃back to Kant。〃 In the strange
welter of whims and dreams which one finds in Russia； this was to
me an unexpected evidence of healthful thought。
Naturally； I soon asked to be presented to the lady of the house；
and the count escorted us through a series of rooms to a salon
furnished much like any handsome apartment in Paris or St。
Petersburg； where the countess； with other ladies； all in full
evening dress； received us cordially。 This sudden transition from
the peasant cabin of the master to these sumptuous rooms of the
mistress was startling； it seemed like scene…shifting at a
theater。
After some friendly talk； all returned to the rooms of the master
of the house； where tea was served at a long table from the
bubbling brazen urnthe samovar； and though there were some
twenty or thirty guests； nothing could be more informal。 All was
simple； kindly； and unrestrained。
My first question was upon the condition of the people。 Our
American legation had corresponded with Count Tolstoi and his
family as to distributing a portion of the famine fund sent from
the Uni