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expenditure； the whole atmosphere of the country seems to
paralyze energy。 During my stay at St。 Petersburg I traveled over
the line between that city and Berlin six or eight times； and
though there was usually but one express…train a day； I never saw
more than twenty or thirty through passengers。 When one bears in
mind the fact that this road is the main artery connecting one
hundred and twenty millions of people at one end with over two
hundred millions at the other； this seems amazing； but still more
so when one considers that in。 the United States； with a
population of； say； eighty millions in all； we have five great
trunk…lines across the continent； each running large
express…trains several times a day。
There was apparently little change as regards enterprise in
Russia； whatever there might be as regarded facilities for
travel。 St。 Petersburg had grown； of course。 There were new
streets in the suburbs； and where the old admiralty wharves had
stood；for the space of perhaps an eighth of a mile along the
Neva；fine buildings had been erected。 But these were the only
evident changes； the renowned Nevskii Prospekt remaining as
formerlya long line of stuccoed houses on either side； almost
all poor in architecture； and the street itself the same unkempt；
shabby； commonplace thoroughfare as of old。 No new bridge had
been built across the Neva for forty years。 There was still but
one permanent structure spanning the river； and the great stream
of travel and traffic between the two parts of the city was
dependent mainly on the bridges of boats； which； at the breaking
of the ice in the spring； had sometimes to be withdrawn during
many days。
A change had indeed been brought by the emancipation of the
serfs； but there was little outward sign of it。 The muzhik
remained； to all appearance； what he was before： in fact； as our
train drew into St。 Petersburg； the peasants； with their
sheepskin caftans； cropped hair； and stupid faces； brought back
the old impressions so vividly that I seemed not to have been
absent a week。 The old atmosphere of repression was evident
everywhere。 I had begun my experience of it under Nicholas I； had
seen a more liberal policy under Alexander II； but now found a
recurrence of reaction； and everywhere a pressure which deadened
all efforts at initiating a better condition of things。
But I soon found one change for the better。 During my former stay
under Nicholas I and Alexander II； the air was full of charges of
swindling and cheatery against the main men at court。 Now next to
nothing of that sort was heard； it was evident that Alexander
III； narrow and illiberal though he might be； was an honest man；
and determined to end the sort of thing that had disgraced the
reigns of his father and grandfather。
Having made the usual visit to the Foreign Office upon my
arrival； I was accompanied three days later by the proper
officials； Prince Soltykoff and M。 de Koniar； on a special train
to Gatchina； and there received by the Emperor。 I found
himthough much more reserved than his fatheragreeable and
straightforward。 As he was averse to set speeches； we began at
once a discussion on various questions interesting the two
nations； and especially those arising out of the Behring Sea
fisheries。 He seemed to enter fully into the American view；
characterizing the marauders in that sea as 〃ces poachers
la〃using the English word； although our conversation was in
French； and on my saying that the Russian and American interests
in that question were identical； he not only acquiesced； but
spoke at considerable length； and earnestly； in the same sense。
He alluded especially to the Chicago Exposition； spoke in praise
of its general conception and plan； said that though in certain
classes of objects of art it might not equal some of the European
expositions； it would doubtless in very many specialties surpass
all others； and on my expressing the hope that Russia would be
fully represented； he responded heartily； declaring that to be
his own wish。
Among the various subjects noted was one which was rather
curious。 In the anteroom I had found the Greek Archbishop of
Warsaw arrayed in a purple robe and hatthe latter adorned with
an exceedingly lustrous cross of diamonds； and； engaging in
conversation with him； had learned that he had a few years before
visited China as a missionary； his talk was that of a very
intelligent man； and on my saying that one of our former American
bishops； Dr。 Boone； in preparing a Chinese edition of the
Scriptures had found great difficulty in deciding upon a proper
equivalent for the word 〃God；〃 the archbishop answered； 〃That is
quite natural； for the reason that the Chinese have really no
conception of such a Being。〃
Toward the close of my interview with the Emperor； then； I
referred to the archbishop； and congratulated the monarch on
having so accomplished and devoted a prelate in his church。 At
this he said； 〃You speak Russian； then？〃 to which I answered in
the negative。 〃But；〃 he said； 〃how then could you talk with the
archbishop？〃 I answered； 〃He spoke in French。〃 The Emperor seemed
greatly surprised at this； and well he might be； for the
ecclesiastics in Russia seem the only exceptions to the rule that
Russians speak French and other foreign languages better and more
generally than do any other people。
This interview concluded； I was taken through a long series of
apartments filled with tapestries； porcelain； carvings；
portraits； and the like； to be received by the Empress。 She was
slight in figure； graceful； with a most kindly face and manner；
and she put me at ease immediately； addressing me in English； and
detaining me much longer than I had expected。 She； too； spoke of
the Chicago Exposition； saying that she had ordered some things
of her own sent to it。 She also referred very pleasantly to the
Rev。 Dr。 Talmage of Brooklyn； who had come over on one of the
ships which brought supplies to the famine…stricken； and she
dwelt upon sundry similarities and dissimilarities between our
own country and Russia； discussing various matters of local
interest； and was in every way cordial and kindly。
The impression made by the Emperor upon me at that time was
deepened during my whole stay。 He was evidently a strong
character； but within very unfortunate limitsupright； devoted
to his family； with a strong sense of his duty to his people and
of his accountability to the Almighty。 But more and more it
became evi