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that 〃plain evening dress;〃 which these partizans of Jeffersonian
simplicity laud and magnify; and which is the only alternative to
a uniform; is worn by table…waiters the world over。
Yet; having conceded so much; truth compels me to add that;
having myself never worn anything save 〃plain evening dress〃 at
any court to which I have been accredited; or at any function
which I have attended; I have never been able to discover the
slightest disadvantage to my country or myself from that fact。
Colleagues of mine; clad in resplendent uniforms; have; indeed;
on more than one occasion congratulated me on being allowed a
more simple and comfortable costume; and though such expressions
are; of course; to be taken with some grains of allowance; I have
congratulated myself with the deepest sincerity on my freedom
from what seems to me a most tiresome yoke。
The discussion of a question of such vast importanceto the
censors above referred towould be inadequate were mention not
made of a stumbling…block which does not seem to have been
adequately considered by those who propose a return to the
earlier practice of our Republic and this is; that the uniform
is; at any European court; but a poor thing unless it bears some
evidence of distinguished service; in the shape of stars;
crosses; ribbons; and the like。 A British ambassador; or minister
plenipotentiary; in official uniform; but without the ribbon or
star of the Bath or other honorable order; would appear to little
advantage indeed。 A representative of the French Republic would
certainly prefer to wear the plainest dress rather than the most
splendid uniform unadorned by the insignia of the Legion of
Honor; and; in a general way; the same may be said of the
representatives of all nations which approve the wearing of a
diplomatic uniform。
But our own Republic bestows no such 〃decorations;〃 and allows
none of its representatives; during their term of office; to
receive them; so that; if put into uniform; these representatives
must appear to the great mass of beholders as really of inferior
quality; undistinguished by any adornments which indicate good
service。
All this difficulty our present practice avoids。 The American
ambassador; or minister; is known at once by the fact that he
alone wears plain evening dress; and this fact; as well as the
absence of decorations; being recognized as in simple conformity
with the ideas and customs of his country; rather adds to his
prestige than diminishes it; as far as I have been able to
discover。 Perhaps the well…known case of Lord Castlereagh at the
Congress of Vienna is in point。 In the midst of the throng of his
colleagues; all of them most gorgeously arrayed in uniforms;
stars; and decorations of every sort; he appeared in the simplest
evening attire; and the attention of Metternich being called to
this fact; that much experienced; infinitely bespangled statesman
answered; 〃Ma foi! il est bien distingue。〃
Of course we ought to give due weight to the example set by
Benjamin Franklin when presented to Louis XVI; and the fact that
his simple shoe…strings nearly threw the court chamberlains into
fainting…fits; and that his plain dress had an enormous influence
on public opinion; but; alas! we have also to take account of the
statement by an eminent critic to the effect that Franklin; at
his previous presentation to Louis XV; had worn court dress; and
that he wore similar gorgeous attire at various other public
functions; with the inference that he was prevented from doing
so; when received by Louis XVI; only by the fact that somehow his
court dress was inaccessible。'10'
'10' See Sainte…Beuve; 〃Causeries du Lundi;〃 Vol。 VII; Article of
November 29; 1852。
All these facts; conflicting; but more or less pertinent; being
duly considered; I would have the rule regarding dress remain as
it is; save in the rare cases when the sovereign of a country; at
some special function; requests some modification of it。 In such
case the Secretary of State might; one would suppose; be allowed
to grant a dispensation from the ordinary rule without any danger
to American liberty。
For the more profound considerations which this vast subject
suggests; the judicious reader may well consult 〃Sartor
Resartus。〃