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that form the chief industry of Limasol。
At a distance of a mile from our camp we entered the new government road
which connected Limasol with Platraes； thirty miles distant。 The country
quickly assumed an agreeable character； undulations and watercourses
were more or less covered with trees； and the road scarped out of the
steep sides exhibited the cretaceous formation similar to that between
Larnaca and Lefkosia。 Wild lavender was just blooming upon many portions
of the way； while along the rocky courses of ravines the oleanders were
in the richest blossom。 The road was furnished with mile…posts； and the
mules ambled along at a little more than five miles an hour。 I found
considerable fault in the low gradients （one in thirty）； which had
produced a road unnecessary for the vehicles of the country； at a
proportionate outlay； it was altogether too good； and would have been
excellent trotting…ground for a light phaeton and pair。 As there was no
such vehicle in the island； the beautifully traced highway exhibited a
model of engineering that was scarcely appreciated by the natives； who
invariably took the short and direct cuts to avoid the circuitous
zigzags in descending the numerous valleys and in rounding the deep
ravines。 After a ride of twelve miles through a beautiful country； well
wooded； and comprising a succession of wild hills and deep gorges； which
formed torrents in the wet season； we arrived at a river flowing in a
clear but extremely shallow and narrow stream beneath cliffs of
cretaceous limestone。 The banks were richly clad with rosy oleanders；
myrtles； mastic shrubs； and the shade of several fine old plane…trees in
full foliage invited us at once to halt immediately upon the edge of the
rippling stream。 This spot was known as Zigu； where an ancient stone
bridge； with pointed arches； crossed the ravine about a hundred paces
above the new wooden bridge erected by the Royal Engineers。 This was a
most charming spot for luncheon； and the dense shade of the planes was
far more agreeable than the shelter of a wooden military hut that stood
upon the height above and by no means improved the beauty of the view。
Our dogs seemed to enjoy the change； and raced up and down the river's
bed； delighted with the cold water from the mountains； fresh from the
highest springs of Troodos Some cold roast pigeons； young and fat； and
some hard…boiled eggs； formed our luncheon； together with bread and
cheese。 These were quickly despatched and the carpets being spread
beneath the trees； an hour's nap was good for man while the mules rolled
and then dozed in luxury upon the turf…like surface of the glen。 I was
awakened by the clatter of horse's hoofs； and Mr。 Allen； the chief
officer of the police of Limasol； appeared； having most kindly ridden
after us with the post just arrived from England。 Unfortunately not a
crumb of luncheon remained； the dogs having swallowed our leavings。 We
now saddled； and continued the journey upon the firm surface of the new
road。
When about fourteen miles from Limasol we entered upon a grand scene；
which exhibited the commencement of the wine…producing district。 The
road was scarped from the mountain side several hundred feet above the
river； which murmured over its rocky bed in the bottom of the gorge。 We
were skirting a deep valley； and upon either side the mountains rose to
a height of about 1400 feet； completely covered with vineyards from the
base to the summit； this long vale or chasm extended to the Troodos
range； which towered to upwards of 6000 feet； at a distance of about
fourteen miles immediately in our front。 The vines were all green with
their early foliage； and the surface of the hill…sides was most
cheering； contrasting with the yellow plain we had left at Limasol。
The good road rendered travelling delightful after the stony paths that
we had traversed for some months in Cyprus； and the time passed so
rapidly that we could hardly believe the distance marked upon the
nineteenth milestone； where it was necessary to halt for the arrival of
our baggage animals。 After waiting till nearly dark we found they had
quitted the new road and preferred a short cut across country； which had
led them to the village of Menagria down in the glen nearly a mile below
us。 We walked down the steep hill and joined the party； pitched the
tent； and made ready for the night。
On the following morning； instead of adhering to the new road； we
descended to the bottom of the gorge and crossed the river near some
water…mills； as the bridge was not yet completed in the distant angle of
the glen。 We now ascended an exceedingly steep hill from the river's
bed； which severely tried our animals； until； after passing a succession
of cereal crops and vineyards； we arrived at the summit； about 1200 feet
above the valley。 From this point the view was magnificent。 The
pine…covered sides of Troodos appeared close before us； and a valley
stretched away to our right richly clothed with trees below the steep
vine…covered sides of the surrounding mountains。 Keeping to our left and
passing through several insignificant villages； we commenced a most
dangerous descent； with an occasional deep precipice on the right of the
extremely narrow path； until we reached a contracted but verdant glen。
This was a remarkable change： we had suddenly entered one of those
picturesque vales for which Devonshire is famous。 The vegetation had
changed to that of Europe； as we were now nearly 3000 feet above the
sea。 Apple and pear trees of large size were present； not in orchards；
but growing independently as though wild。 Dog…roses of exquisite colour
were in full bloom； and reminded us of English hedges。 Beautiful
oak…trees scattered upon the green surface gave a park…like appearance
to the scene； and numerous streams of clear water rippled though the
myrtle…covered banks； over the deep brown rocks of the plutonic
formation； which had now succeeded to the cretaceous limestone。
It was a curious geological division； limited by the glen： on the left；
the hills and mountains were the usual white marls and cretaceous
limestone； while on the right everything was plutonic or granitic；
including gneiss； syenite； and metamorphous rocks of various characters。
The soil of the glen was red； and the villages； built of sun…baked
bricks of this colour； harmonised with the dark green of rich crops of
wheat that had been irrigated by the never…failing water…power。 We had
now rejoined the English road； which passed along the bottom of the
glen； and which was yet incomplete； several gangs of men were working at
intervals； and in the scarps； where deep cuttings had been necessary； I
remarked a considerable amount of ironstone。
A few miles through this interesting scenery brought us to the village
of Mandria； where a strong working party was engaged in erecting a
wooden bridge upon masonry piers。 We now turned off to the left； over
rough but richly…wooded hills； leaving the English road； which extended
direct to Platraes； as our course was altered towards the large village
of Phyni； situated at the foot of the Troodos mountain。 There could
hardly be a worse or more danger