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which in some instances overpowered the foliage by a preponderance of
yellow。 Lefka supplies the whole western district with lemons； in
addition to the market of the capital； Lefkosia。 As usual； I observed
that the fruit…trees were ridiculously crowded； thus preventing the
admission of the necessary air and light。 I forbear at present to
describe the fruit； as none existed at this season； excepting oranges
and lemons； and I wish to introduce my readers to every scene and object
precisely as they met my eye in travelling through the country。 The
lemons are some of the best I have ever tasted； but the oranges are full
of seeds； with thick skins； and although juicy and refreshing in this
hot climate； they would be rejected in the English market。
A very cursory view of Lefka was sufficient to explain its agricultural
importance； and to （for the hundredth time） awaken the reflection that
most portions of the island might equal such exceptional prosperity； if
special attention were bestowed upon the development of artificial
irrigation。
On 16th April we left Caravastasi； and rode over almost the worst road；
but one of the most picturesque in Cyprus。 It was a succession of the
steepest ups and downs through and over mountain spurs； to cut off the
promontories which projected into the sea at right angles with our
route。 It seemed impossible that loaded animals should be able to
traverse such steep and dangerous defiles； and I made up my mind that
Iiani's ancient camel would terminate its career； together with that of
our possessions upon its back； by rolling several hundred feet into the
dark angle of some precipitous ravine。 Even Iiani kept awake； and
presently I heard a faint exclamation from behind； and upon turning
round I discovered Lady Baker upon the ground； the saddle having twisted
beneath her mule in descending a steep and rocky gulley； fortunately she
fell upon the wall…side of the path； instead of upon the edge of the
precipice； and she was unhurt。
Although the route was abominable it was most interesting。 As the
drainage of the mountains was at right angles； we crossed a succession
of heights which afforded short glimpses of the sea some 600 feet
beneath； with the perpendicular rock…bound coast below us； and then
alternately descended into the depths of the intervening gullies。 This
peculiarity exhibited to perfection the geological formation。 We had
entered upon trap rocks and the greenstone； all of which showed traces
of copper。 Notwithstanding the wild and dangerous route； every available
plot of ground was cultivated； although no villages were perceptible。
The peasants carried their light ploughs upon donkeys from considerable
distances； and with these exceedingly useful implements they ploughed
inclines that would have been impossible to cultivate with any European
implement except the hoe。 At length we descended to the sea…beach； and
marching through heavy sand for about a mile； we arrived at Pyrgos； our
halting…place； twelve miles from Caravastasi。
This is one of the wildest portions of Cyprus。 There is no village； but
the position is simply marked by the presence of one building above the
sea…beach； which has been a depot for the spars and poles of pine that
have periodically been delivered from the mountains by the torrents；
when heavy rains have swollen them sufficiently to enable them to force
the timber towards the sea。 As the mountains upon this portion of the
coast descend in many places actually to the shore； while in no places
are they more than half a mile distant； the rivulets are numerous； as
there is no time； or area； sufficient for their absorption by the soil。
Within a hundred and fifty paces of the timber store beautiful streams
of clear water issued from the ground in three different places； which
converged into a brook abounding with water…cresses； and this； after
passing through a small and thick jungle of tamarisk…bushes； formed a
pool above the sea…beach which overflowed upon the shingle； and met the
waves。 We ascended the stream for a short distance； until； tempted by
two or three large plane…trees； we halted for luncheon beneath their
shade。 The river； which occasionally flooded sufficiently to bring down
heavy timber when felled among the mountains； flowed through an
extremely rich but narrow valley； which extended into a glen between
their precipitous slopes until it became a mere ravine。 The mass of
mountains in this district； which form a succession of wild and
impassable steeps； is marked upon Kiepert's map as 〃unexplored。〃 They
were originally pine…forests； but the destruction of timber has been
carried to such an excess that comparatively few trees remain。 With my
glass I could distinguish large trunks that lay rotting upon the ground；
where they had pitched among the stems； and roots of trees that had been
already felled； these had been rolled from the steep heights above； but
having been caught in their descent to the torrent below by the opposing
stumps； they had been abandoned； and other trees had been felled in
their stead； where the inclination was more favourable for their
transport。
This portion of the coast should be thoroughly explored by practical
miners； as it is rich in minerals。 I procured some fine specimens of
pyrites of copper； which the natives mistook for silver； and should a
mineralogical investigation be made by the authorities； I feel sure that
the metallic wealth of Cyprus will be discovered between Caravastasi and
Poli…ton…Krysokhus。
It was late before our baggage animals appeared； and when they at length
arrived； Iiani's venerable camel was missing。 It appeared that this
worn…out old creature had been performing acrobatic feats in tumbling
throughout the difficult journey； and had rolled； together with its
load； down several places that had threatened its destruction。 It had
delayed the march several hours； as it had been many times released from
difficulties by unloading； reloading； and dividing the heavier portions
of baggage among the other camels which received a smaller pay。 At
length； upon arriving upon the deep sand of the beach； about a mile
distant； it had fallen down； and given up everything except the ghost。
It was a natural annoyance to the owners of the other camels that Iiani
should be paid highly for a useless animal； while they had to carry its
load divided among them assisted by a division of the smaller weights
among the servants' riding mules。 The evening was passed in grumbling：
everybody was in a bad humour。 It was declared impossible to pitch the
tent upon the sandy beach by the pool of fresh water； as there was no
holding…ground for the tent…pegs。 I quickly instructed them in making
faggots of tamarisk…boughs which； tied to the ropes and buried in the
sand； were much more secure than pegs in the hardest soil； and the tent
was at length arranged。 A small species of curlew tempted its fate by
visiting the fresh…water margin just before our dinner…hour； I bagged
it； and as the cook was in a bad humour； I made a fire of driftwood；
with which the beach was strewed； and when the glowing embers had
succeeded to the flame and formed