按键盘上方向键 ← 或 → 可快速上下翻页，按键盘上的 Enter 键可回到本书目录页，按键盘上方向键 ↑ 可回到本页顶部！
————未阅读完？加入书签已便下次继续阅读！
chronic somnolency was most annoying； and I had to drive his mule into a
faster walk by poking its hind…quarters with my stick。 The animal would
then break into a sudden trot； which would awaken the rider to the fact
that he had been dreaming； upon which he burst into some peculiar song
that was intended to prove that he was wide awake； but after a few bars
the ditty ceased； the head once more nodded and swung from side to side；
the mule relaxed its pace 。 。 。 Iiani was asleep again！
In another sense he was very wide…awake。 He had represented to me that
he was the proprietor of the seven camels and five mules； but I quickly
discovered that he was only the owner of a completely worn…out old camel
and four mules： he had hired the other animals at a considerably lower
rate than I had agreed to pay him； therefore I should have the
difficulty of several discontented owners instead of one。 However； we
had started before this fact was explained by my factotum Christo。
The route lay along the sea…shore through a forest of caroub…trees and
olives； occasionally varied by patches of cereals。 Upon our right to the
sea…margin were tolerable crops of barley； most of which had been
irrigated by water conducted from the hills。 At about four miles
distance from Kyrenia the caroubs and olives of all growths exhibited
the effects of north…easterly gales； as they inclined to south…west； and
those nearest to the sea； which acted as screens； and received the full
unbroken force of the wind； were seriously damaged。 As we proceeded
towards Lapithus the trees became widely scattered； the slopes were
steeper； and the strip of level ground to the sea…margin narrowed to
only half a mile。 The mountains rose rapidly from this base； and an
extra deep tinge of green showed the effect of streams； which in this
happy spot of Cyprus are perennial。 Many little villages were dotted
about the mountain sides with groves of olives and other fruit…trees；
which appeared to be in danger from the impending cliffs； huge masses
having fallen and rolled to various distances at the bottom。 The country
reminded me of the prettiest portions of South Italy。
At eight miles from Kyrenia we arrived at the thriving town of Karava；
built upon the mountain slope and watered by powerful streams diverted
into artificial channels from the parent bed。 The large population of
this neighbourhood is principally engaged in the production of silk； for
which the locality has long been famous。 Every garden that surrounded
the houses was rich in mulberry…trees； together with oranges and lemons
and the luxuriant foliage of the almond。 We rode along steep paved lanes
within the town； through which the water was rushing in refreshing
streams； until we at length reached the precipitous edge of the ravine；
which in the rainy season becomes an important torrent。 Although some
flour…mills are worked； I observed a terrible waste of water…power；
which might be turned to account for machinery。 I heard the usual excuse
for this neglect； 〃The people have no money！〃
We had ridden fast； and were far ahead of the baggage animals； we
accordingly halted to lunch beneath a shady caroub…tree near the edge of
the ravine； about fifty feet below。 A French game…bag； with net and
numerous pockets； always contained our meals； which consisted of a cold
fowl； some eggs boiled hard； and a loaf of native brown bread or
biscuits。 This was luncheon and breakfast； as we never indulged in more
than two meals a day； merely taking a cup of cafe au lait； or cocoa； in
the early morning； and our lunch or breakfast at any hour that
travelling made convenient。 This depended upon the attraction of some
pretty spot or wide…spreading tree that suggested a halt。
We now remounted and rode to Lapithus； a mile and a half distant； and；
avoiding the town； selected a camping…place on the flat ground within
300 yards of the sea。
There was little difference between Lapithus and Karava。 A succession of
mountain streams nourished the higher grounds； and having fertilised the
gardens and plots of cereals； were subsequently led into the fields
below。
Lapithus has been celebrated from an ancient date in like manner with
Kythrea； owing to the unfailing supply of water from its
mountain…springs； and； under the Ptolemies； B。C。 295； it became one of
the four provinces into which Cyprus was divided。 Lapithus； north；
Amathus； south； Salamis； east； Paphos （now Baffo）； west。
On the following morning our muleteer Iiani； having indulged in
cigarettes and sleep； was not ready to start at the proper hour； neither
were the animals forth…coming。 We accordingly started on foot and
threaded our way through paved lanes； which twisted and turned in
various directions according to the positions of the houses and
innumerable gardens。 The people were very civil； and directed us in the
right direction； although evidently surprised at our journeying on foot；
which is most unusual even among the poorer classes。 We walked for more
than a mile through the town： the air was fresh and enjoyable； the
thermometer was 53 degrees at 7 A。M。 Streams of clear water gushed
through the lanes in many places； which had created the flourishing
aspect around。 With such a picture of prosperity before us； due entirely
to the presence of never…failing streams； it seemed incredible that the
great central district of Messaria should be left to the chance of
seasons when the means of artificial irrigation lie close beneath the
surface。
Upon quitting Lapithus the country on the west was almost devoid of
trees； and we walked for four miles and a half before we could procure a
shade。 At this distance we halted to await the mules beneath a clump of
three caroub…trees close to the road side。 Beneath this group were
several masses of rock which appeared to have rolled at some remote
period from the mountain side； as blocks of all sizes strewed the ground
in every direction。 I was at once struck with a beautiful block of dark
green marble； and upon examining the neighbourhood I discovered many
pieces of the same material； all of which had evidently fallen from the
mountain's side； thus proving that the parent mass would be found in
situ were the high cliffs investigated。 The mules arrived； and I
directed attention of Iiani to the fact； in order that I might procure a
specimen by sending him to the spot upon a future occasion。 We now
entered upon groves of caroub…trees； and the ground was covered with
blocks of limestone and of marbles。 As we proceeded the shore became
exceedingly narrow； as the base of the steep mountain sprang from within
a short distance of the sea。 The quantity and varieties of marbles
increased； the dark green was present in large blocks； and several
masses of bright rose…colour suggested that rare and valuable qualities
might be profitably worked and exported； as great facilities existed in
the presence of snug little coves within only a few yards； where in the
summer months native vessels of twenty or thirty tons might anchor in
security。
The country now became exceedingly wild and rugged。 The sea was in many
places exactly below us as we skirted the cliffs and