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be occupied exclusively by Turks。 The population of the town is now
about 600； but the Greek element is increasing since the British
Convention ensured their protection。
Our camp was daily visited by the women of both Turks and Cypriotes； who
came to indulge their curiosity； and my wife had some difficulty in
receiving the increasing circle of acquaintance。 The want of a female
interpreter was at first acutely felt； as the conversation was much
restricted when Georgi was the only medium。 After a few days this
shyness on the part of the Turkish ladies wore off； and Georgi； who was
a good； painstaking young fellow； became a favourite； some of these
ladies were exceedingly gracious； and took off their veils when in the
tent with Lady Baker and myself； and conversed upon various subjects
with much intelligence。 A few were decidedly pretty； all were studiously
clean and well dressed； and they formed a marked contrast in appearance
and general style to the Cypriote women； the breed was superior； their
hands were delicate and well cared for； but disfigured by the prevalent
habit of staining the nails and palms with henna。 This plant is called
shenna by all Turks and Cypriotes； and it is imported from Syria for the
purpose of dyeing the hair； and also the feet and hands of Turkish
women。 It is not a production of Cyprus； as has been erroneously stated
by some authors； I made particular inquiries in all portions of the
island； and of all classes； upon this subject。 The henna； or shenna； is
only to be met with in some few gardens； where it is cultivated as an
ornamental shrub； in the same manner that the arbutus may be seen in the
shrubberies of England。 The Turkish women are very particular in dyeing
their hair； and use various preparations。 The shenna produces a glossy
red； which some years ago was the fashionable tinge in England。 There is
also a small seed of a plant which is prepared by roasting until burnt；
like coffee； and then reducing to powder； which is formed into a paste
with oil； this is a well…known dye； which turns the hair into a deep
black。 There was a sudden rush for information when the British
occupation of Cyprus was announced to the startled public； and books
were rather hurriedly put together； compiled from various authorities；
which； although yielding valuable information upon many points；
unfortunately perpetuated errors by reproducing erroneous statements。
The asserted existence of henna as 〃an indigenous shrub which originated
the name of Cyprus；〃 is an instance of such mistakes； similar to the
descriptions of 〃HEATH…covered surface；〃 when no such plant exists upon
the island。
The longer I remained in the neighbourhood of Kyrenia the deeper was my
regret that the arrivals of strangers should take place in the southern
ports； instead of receiving their first impressions of Cyprus by an
introduction to this lovely coast。 I was never afloat on the northern
side； but the view must be strikingly impressive； as the trees； ever
green almost to the water's edge； shadow the rocky coves； and clothe the
surface to the base of the mountains； whilst； at a short distance from
the land these must appear as though rising abruptly from the sea。 The
castles upon the extreme summits form unmistakable landmarks； resembling
sentries on either side the fort and harbour of Kyrenia。
On 6th April the general rendezvous was the monastery of Bellapais；
three and a half miles distant from Kyrenia； in response to the
invitation of Major McCalmont； 7th Hussars； on the staff of Sir Garnet
Wolseley； who had taken immense trouble for the gratification of his
guests by sending tents； baggage； and sleeping accommodation for two
nights； in addition to every kind of necessary refreshments。
The route from Kyrenia lay through a country of the brightest shades of
green； parallel with the sea； about a mile and a half distant； towards
which a succession of deep ravines； which formed river…beds in the rainy
season； drained from the mountains at right angles with the path。 This
side of the Carpas range formed a strong contrast with the parched
southern slopes； as every garden and farm was irrigated by water
conducted from the mountains in artificial channels； which would
otherwise have been absorbed and lost in the wide and stony stream…beds
if left to its natural course。 We passed through sombre groves of very
ancient olives of immense girth； then through villages concealed among a
luxuriant growth of fruit…trees； the almonds being already large； and
eaten eagerly by the inhabitants； although still unripe。 The oranges in
heavy crops weighed down the dark green branches； the deep yellow fruit
contrasting brightly with the foliage； and the fields of barley that had
benefited by artificial irrigation looked like green carpets spread
between the neighbouring villages and gardens。 Having crossed several
deep and wide stream…beds； in one of which the water still trickled in a
clear but narrow channel； we commenced a steep ascent among scattered
but numerous caroub…trees； which gave a park…like appearance to the
country； and upon gaining an eminence we came suddenly upon the view of
Bellapais。 The monastery was not more than 600 yards distant； but a deep
hollow intervened between the opposing heights； which necessitated a
circuit of more than a mile before we could reach the village。 It would
be impossible to select a more beautiful position for a house than the
flat summit of the height upon which we stood。 The valley at our feet
nursed a rippling stream deep in the bottom of a precipitous gorge； the
rough sides clothed with myrtles； which now occupied basket…makers who
were completing their work upon the spot where they cut their wands of
this tough wood in lieu of willow。 The fine old Gothic building stood
before us on the opposite height upon the extreme edge； surrounded by
trees of various kinds； including tall poplars which unfortunately were
not yet in leaf。 This grand old pile was an impressive contrast to the
scene around； there were neat villages with flat…topped roofs of clay；
down in the vale far beneath； with the intense blue sea washing the
rocky shore： there was also the adjoining village at the rear； occupying
the same plateau as the monastery； with its rich gardens and groves of
orange…trees； the ruined walls and towers of Buffavento upon the highest
crags dominated our position by more than 2；500 feet； and the castle of
St。 Hilarion stood upon a still higher elevation on the western sky…line
behind Kyrenia。 There was nothing modern that appeared compatible with
the style and grandeur of Bellapais。 When this monastery was erected；
Cyprus must have been a flourishing and populous country worthy of such
architecture； but the present surroundings； although harmonising in
colouring； and in a quiet passiveness of scene； in no way suggested a
connection with a past that gave birth either to the Gothic building or
to the important castles of Buffavento and St。 Hilarion。
Having skirted the amphitheatre upon the monastery level； we passed
through an orange…garden and entered the courtyard。 The church occupies
the right side； and the wall is fro