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Varoschia is not much healthier than Famagousta； as it suffers from the
same cause； in addition to an enormous accumulation of filth on the
heights at the rear of the town。 If this were carefully stored to manure
the numerous gardens； it would be profitably utilised； but it belongs to
nobody in particular； and is a public nuisance。 A fine should be
inflicted upon the municipal authorities in the sanitary interests of
the population； and the refuse of the neighbourhood should be
periodically collected into heaps and burned。 Captain Inglis and the
various British officials moved their quarters from Famagousta to the
healthy village of Derinia； about three miles distant； during our stay
near Varoschia。 The new station is to the south…west of the port； and
completely beyond the influence of the marshes； the elevation being
about 250 feet above the sea。 Should this locality become a permanently
healthy settlement； the sanitary difficulty of our position will be
considerably modified； as the troops might be quartered at Derinia in
time of peace； and even during war they would be immediately within
call。
A lake exists about three miles inland from Famagousta； which is between
four and five miles in circumference； the water is fresh； but
exceedingly shallow and impure； the edges covered with high reeds； which
extend for several hundred yards from the shore。 This lake swarms with
varieties of water…fowl； which can only be shot by wading and waiting
concealed in the high cover of rushes and tamarisk； as they are
exceedingly wary。 Commander Hammond； of H。M。S。 Torch； bagged thirty…five
ducks to his own gun upon one occasion； by thus challenging the fever
and remaining hip…deep in the muddy water for some hours。 I did not feel
disposed to risk the chances of malaria； as the effluvium from the mud
was sufficiently offensive even when walking round the margin； and I
already felt some warning symptoms of the heavy atmosphere of
Famagousta； which might； if neglected； have terminated in ague。 I shot a
fine specimen of the glossy ibis； and I otherwise contented myself with
watching the variety of ducks； coots； teal； and other water…fowl through
my glass； as they enjoyed themselves in flocks upon the surface of the
lake at a great distance。
Having exhausted the sights of Famagousta； we started on the 22nd of
March for Kuklia； twelve miles distant； where we had left our vans in
charge of the headman during our absence in the Carpas country。 Upon our
arrival we found them untouched or unharmed； and we were met not only by
the headman himself； but by our two bullock…drivers Georgi and Theodori；
who had come from Lithrankomi。 Georgi had recovered from the despair
which had overpowered him when we last parted； and he was almost
triumphant when he related the success of his mission to Gallibornu with
the mysterious paper written in English； that I had given him in order
to terrify the purchaser of his bullock。 He had exhibited this
awe…inspiring epistle； which nobody could either read or understand； and
Georgi had taken advantage of his opportunity to threaten the sharp
cattle…dealer with a long list of imaginary punishments that would be
inflicted by English law should he refuse to return the bullock； which
had been hired for a special service by an Englishman。 The paper was
closely scrutinised； and being in an unknown character； Georgi felt his
advantage； and expounded the contents so forcibly that he worked upon
the fears of the inhabitants of Gallibornu； who insisted that the Turk
should compromise the affair and return the handsome bullock； receiving
in exchange his own half…starved old animal； in addition to a present
of half a sovereign。 Georgi was only too delighted to immediately clench
the bargain。 I advised him in future to manage his own cattle…dealing
instead of confiding in his able friend Theodori； and I ordered the oxen
to be put in the yokes at once； and to draw the vans to our old
camping…place beneath the hawthorn…tree。 Upon arrival at the spot a
great change had taken place； the hawthorns were a mass of blossom； and
scented the air for a considerable distance； the groves of fig…trees
had broken into leaf； the trefoil had grown to a height of two feet； and
numerous cattle were tethered in the rich field； to feed upon the few
square yards that each owner had purchased at a high price to save his
animals from starvation。 A field of broad…beans that we had left in
early blossom twenty…four days before now produced our well…known
vegetable for dinner； and I observed that the native children； with
their usual liking for uncooked food； were eating these indigestible
beans raw！
There had been no rain since our departure； and every crop that was not
irrigated was absolutely destroyed。 The aspect of the country was
pitiable； it should have been at this season a waving sea of green
barley and young wheat； but it was a withered desert with a few
patches of verdure like oases in a thirsty wilderness。 This terrible
calamity extended throughout the entire district or plain of Messaria；
and exhibited a sad example of the great necessity of Cyprus〃an
organised system of artificial irrigation。〃
We remained some days at Kuklia； during which I strengthened the
gipsy…van by lashing the frame…work with raw bull's…hide and securing
the blocks of the springs to the axles with the same material。 It is
worthy of note 〃that a fresh hide should never be used for lashing； but
a skin that has been already dried should be soaked for twenty…four
hours； and then cut into a strip as carefully and as long as the size
will permit。 When thus prepared； it should be re…soaked for four or five
hours； and used while wet as a lashing； drawn as tight as possible。 The
power of contraction is enormous； and when dry the skin becomes as hard
as wood； but a fresh hide has not the same contractive power； and will
stretch and become loose when subject to a severe strain。〃 It was a
great comfort to return to the luxury of the gipsy…van； which looked the
picture of neatness； the gorgeous Egyptian lantern had ceased to exist
as an object of value； as it had several times been upset and thrown
completely off its hook by the jumpings and bumpings of the vehicle when
forcibly dragged over the steep banks and watercourses。 It was now
reduced to an 〃antique；〃 and looked as though it had been recovered from
the ruins of an ancient temple。
The post was kindly forwarded from Famagousta by the chief commissioner；
and we revelled in newspapers； which during our stay in the Carpas had
been a complete blank。 Our cook Christo had also received letters which
disconcerted him。 After dinner at about 8。30 P。M。 he suddenly appeared
at the tent door with a very large breakfast…cup in his hand。 〃I beg
your pardon； sir； but I'm sorry to say my mother has just fallen down
and broken her leg！〃 was his first announcement； and he continued； 〃she
is an old woman； past fifty； sir； and a broken leg is a very bad thing；
I have come to ask for some brandy； and I've brought a cup。〃
〃Your mother broken her leg； Christo？ Why； where is she？〃 I replied。
〃She is at Athens； sir； and I want a drop of brandy