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sea a spring of water issues from the ground and nourishes a small
valley of red soil； which slopes downwards towards the monastery； two
miles distant。 The shrubs were vividly green； and formed so dense a
crest that several partridges which I shot remained sticking in the
bushes as they fell。 I never saw such myrtles as those which occupied
the ravines； through which it was quite impossible to force a way。 The
principal young trees were Pinus maritima； dwarf…cypress； mastic；
caroub； arbutus； myrtle； and wild olive。 The name Cupressus horizontalis
has been given to the dwarf…cypress； but in my opinion it is not
descriptive of the tree： a cypress of this species； if uninjured； will
grow perfectly straight in the central stem for a height of twenty feet
without spreading horizontally。 It is probable that the misnomer has
been bestowed in ignorance of the fact that an uninjured tree is seldom
met with； and that nearly every cypress has been mutilated for the sake
of the strong tough leader； which； with one branch attached； will form
the one…fluked anchor required for the roofs of native dwellings already
described。 In the absence of its leader the tree extends laterally； and
becomes a Cupressus horizontalis。 The wood of this species is extremely
dense and hard； and when cut it emits a resinous and aromatic scent； it
is of an oily nature； and extremely inflammable。 The grain is so close
that； when dry； it somewhat resembles lignum vitae （though of lighter
colour）； and would form a valuable material for the turner。 There are
two varieties of cypress in this island； the second has been erroneously
called a 〃cedar〃 by some travellers； and by others 〃juniper。〃 This tree
is generally met with； at altitudes varying from three to six thousand
feet； upon the Troodos range； it seldom exceeds a height of thirty feet；
but attains a girth of six or even seven。 The wood is by no means hard；
and possesses a powerful fragrance； closely resembling that of cedar （or
of cedar and sandal…wood combined）； which may have given rise to the
error named。 It splits with facility； and the peculiar grain and
brownish…red colour； combined with the aroma； would render it valuable
for the cabinet…maker in constructing the insides of drawers； as insects
are believed to dislike the smell。 The foliage of this species exactly
resembles that of the Cupressus horizontalis。 The cedar may possibly
have existed at a former period and have been destroyed； but I should be
inclined to doubt the theory； as it would surely have been succeeded by
a younger growth from the cones； that must have rooted in the ground
like all those conifers which still would flourish were they spared by
the Cypriote's axe。 The native name for the cypress is Kypreses； which
closely resembles the name of the island according to their
pronunciation Kypris。 The chittim…wood of Scripture； which was so much
esteemed； may have been the highly aromatic cypress to which I have
alluded。
After a ramble of many hours down to the monastery upon the rocky shore；
along the point； and then returning through the woods over the highest
portions of the promontory； I reached our camp； which commanded a view
of the entire southern coast with its innumerable rocky coves far beyond
telescopic distance。 From this elevation I could distinguish with my
glass the wreck of the stranded steamer in the bay at Volokalida。 We
were camped on the verge of the height that we had ascended by the
precipitous path from the lower valley。 As the country was a mass of dry
fire…wood we collected a large quantity； and piled two heaps； one for
the camel…owners and the servants； and another before the door of our
own tent to make a cheerful blaze at night； which is a luxury of the
bivouac seldom to be enjoyed in other portions of this island。 While we
were thus engaged an arrival took place； and several people suddenly
appeared upon the summit of the pass within a few yards of our tent。 An
old woman formed one of the party； and a handsome but rather
dirty…looking priest led the way on a remarkably powerful mule。 Upon
seeing us he very courteously dismounted； and I at once invited him to
the tent。 It appeared that this was the actual head of the monastery and
the lord of all the promontory who was thus unexpectedly introduced。
Cigarettes； coffee； and a little good cognac quickly cheered the good
and dusty priest （who had travelled that day from some place beyond
Rizo…Carpas）； and we established a mutual confidence that induced him to
give me all the information of his neighbourhood。
I had observed hundreds of cattle； goats； sheep； and many horses；
donkeys； &c。； wandering about the shrub…covered surface during my walk；
and I was now informed that all these animals were the property of the
monastery。 These tame creatures are the objects described in some books
upon Cyprus as 〃the wild oxen and horses of the Carpas district； the
descendants of original domestic animals〃！ The monastery of Cape St。
Andrea forms an exception to all others in being perfectly independent；
and beyond all control of bishops。 This wild country； far from all
roads； and forming the storm…washed extreme limit of the island； was
considerately out of the way of news； and the monk was absolutely
ignorant of everything that was taking place in the great outer world。
He had heard that such mischievous things as newspapers existed； but he
had never seen one； neither had that ubiquitous animal the
newspaper…correspondent ever been met with in the evergreen jungles of
Cape St。 Andrea。 His monastery was his world； and the poor inhabitants
who occupied the few miserable huts within sight of his church were his
vassals。 Although the bell of the monastery tolled and tinkled at the
required hours； he informed me that 〃nobody ever attended the service；
as the people were always engaged in looking after their animals。〃
During the conversation a sudden idea appeared to have flashed upon him；
and starting from his seat； he went quickly to his mule； and making a
dive into the large and well…filled saddle…bags； he extracted an
enormous wine…bottle that contained about a gallon； this he triumphantly
brought to us and insisted upon our acceptance。 It was in vain that we
declined the offering； the priest was obdurate； and he placed the bottle
against the entrance of the tent； which； if any one should have
unexpectedly arrived； would have presented a most convivial appearance。
Upon questioning the good monk respecting the destruction of forests
upon his domain； he informed me that 〃during the Turkish administration
he had been annually pillaged by hundreds of vessels which arrived from
the neighbouring coasts of Asia Minor and of Egypt for the express
purpose of cutting timber to be sold by weight as fire…wood at their
various ports。 He had protested in vain； there were no police； nor any
means of resistance at Cape St。 Andrea； therefore the numerous crews had
defied him； and small presents from the owners of the vessels to the
Pacha at headquarters were sufficient to ensure immunity。〃 I asked him
〃why they wasted so much excellent fire…wood； and left the boughs to
hamper the surface？〃 He re