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island； this excess to be calculated and determined by
the average of the last five years。〃
and：
〃That if Russia restores to Turkey Kars and the other
conquests made by her in Armenia during the last war；
the island of Cyprus will be evacuated by England； and
the Convention of the fourth June； 1878； will be at an
end。〃
I knew nothing of Cyprus； but I felt sure that the Turks had the best of
the bargain； as they would receive the usual surplus revenue from our
hands； and be saved the trouble and onus of the collection； they would
also be certain of a fixed annual sum； without any of those risks of
droughts； famine； and locusts； to which the island is exposed； and which
seriously affect the income。
Although there would only be a wildly remote chance of Russia ever
relinquishing her Asiatic prey； the bare mention of the words 〃will be
evacuated by England〃 was a possible contingency and risk； that would
effectually exclude all British capital from investment in the island。 I
could not discover any possible good that could accrue to England by the
terms of the Convention。 If Cyprus had been presented as a 〃bonus〃 by
the Porte to counterbalance the risk we should incur in a defensive
alliance for the protection of Asia Minor； I could have seen an addition
to our Colonial Empire of a valuable island； that would not only have
been of strategical value； but such that in a few years； money and
British settlers would have entirely changed its present aspect； and
have created for it a new era of prosperity。
If England had purchased Cyprus； I could have understood the plain；
straightforward； business…like transaction； which would have at once
established confidence； both among the inhabitants； who would have
become British subjects； and through the outer world； that would have
acknowledged the commencement of a great future。
But； if we were actually bound in defensive alliance with Turkey in case
of a war with Russia； why should we occupy Cyprus upon such one…sided
and anomalous conditions； that would frustrate all hopes of commercial
development； for the sake of obtaining a strategical position that would
have been opened to our occupation AS AN ALLY at any moment？ On the
other hand； if we distrusted Turkey； and feared that she might coquet
with Russia at some future period； I could see a paramount necessity for
the occupation of Cyprus； and even Egypt； but we were supposed to be；
and I believe were； acting in absolute and mutual good faith as the
protector of Asiatic Turkey； in defensive alliance with the Sultan。 In
that position； should we have entered into a war with Russia； there was
no necessity for the occupation and responsibility of any new position；
as every port of the Ottoman dominions； even to the Golden Horn of
Constantinople； would have welcomed our troops and boats with
enthusiasm。
Turkey is a suspicious Power； and the British government may have had to
contend with difficulties that are unknown to the criticising public； it
may have been impossible to have obtained her sanction for the
occupation under other conditions。 The possibility of future
complications that might terminate in a close alliance between the
conquered and the victor； may have suggested the necessity for securing
this most important strategical position without delay； upon first
conditions that might subsequently receive modifications。 At first sight
the political situation appeared vague； but I determined to examine the
physical geography of Cyprus； and to form my own opinion of its
capabilities。
CYPRUS AS I SAW IT IN 1879。
CHAPTER 1。
ARRIVAL AT LARNACA。
On the morning of the 4th January we sighted Cyprus at about fifty miles
distance； after a smooth voyage of twenty…six hours from Alexandria。 The
day was favourable for an arrival； as the atmospherical condition
afforded both intense lights and shadows。 The sky was a cobalt blue； but
upon all points of the compass local rain…clouds hovered in dark patches
near the surface； and emptied themselves in heavy showers。 The air was
extremely clear； and as we steamed at ten knots each hour brought out in
prominent relief the mountain peaks of Cyprus； Olympus was capped with
clouds。 Passing through a rain…cloud which for a time obscured the view；
we at length emerged into bright sunshine； the mists had cleared from
the mountain range； and Troodos； 6；400 feet above the sea…level； towered
above all competitors。
We were now about ten miles from the shore； and the general appearance
of the island suggested a recent snowfall。 As the sun shone upon a bare
white surface； the sterile slopes and mountain sides were utterly devoid
of vegetation； and presented a sad aspect of desolation； which reminded
me of the barren range on the shores of the Red Sea。
First impressions are seldom correct； but the view of Cyprus on arrival
from the south was depressing； and extinguished all hopes that had been
formed concerning our newly…acquired possession。 This was the treasure
acquired by astute diplomacy！
For about twenty miles we skirted this miserable coast； upon which not a
green speck relieved the eye； at length we sighted the minaret which
marked the position of Larnaca； the port or roadstead to which the mail
was bound； and in the town we distinguished three or four green trees。
We cast anchor about half a mile from the shore。 Nine or ten vessels；
including several steamers； were in the roadstead； and a number of
lighters were employed in landing cargoes。
Disappointment and disgust were quickly banished by the reflection that
at this season （January） there was nothing green in England： the
thermometer in that dreary land would be below freezing…point； while on
the deck where we stood it was 64 degrees Fahr。 We were quickly in a
boat steering for the landing…place。
All towns look tolerably well from the sea； especially if situated
actually upon the margin of the water。 The town represented a front of
about a mile； less than five feet above the level of the sea； bordered
by a masonry quay perpendicular to the surface； from which several
wooden jetties of inferior and very recent construction served as
landing…places。
The left flank of Larnaca was bounded by a small Turkish fort；
absolutely useless against modern artillery upon the walls the British
flag was floating。 We landed upon the quay。 This formed a street； the
sea upon one side； faced by a row of houses。 As with all Turkish
possessions； decay had stamped the town： the masonry of the quay was in
many places broken down； the waves had undermined certain houses； and in
the holes thus washed out by the action of water were accumulations of
recent filth。 Nevertheless； enormous improvements had taken place since
the English occupation。 An engineer was already employed in repairing
the quay； and large blocks of carefully faced stone （a sedimentary
limestone rock of very recent formation） were being laid upon a bed of
concrete to form a permanent sea…wall。 The houses which lined the quay
were for the most part stores； warehouses； and liquor…shops。 Among these
the Custom House； the Club； Post O