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absence of carts。
The people were as usual dressed in cotton stuffs of home manufacture；
and were ignorant of such a material as flannel； the children were only
half…clad； and shivering； their food was generally raw； comprising
olives； oil； onions； and wild vegetables； such as artichokes； wild
mustard； and a variety of trash that in England would only be regarded
as 〃weeds。〃 There were some pretty intelligent little girls and boys；
some of these were chewing mastic gum； a white leathery substance which
they gathered from incisions in the bark of this common shrub。 My wife
found fault with the neglect of cleanliness； as their teeth； although
even； were totally uncared for。 On the following morning they all
assembled and exhibited a show of nice white teeth； as they had followed
her advice and cleaned them with wood…ashes and their forefingers； in
lieu of a toothbrush。 We saw these children again a month afterwards
upon our return； and they ran across the fields to meet us； at once
opening their mouths to show that they had not forgotten the lesson； and
that their teeth were properly attended to。 I pitied all these poor
people： they are downtrodden and miserable in mind and body。 Instead of
squeezing them for taxes they should be supported and encouraged by
government assistance in every manner possible。 Centuries of oppression
and neglect in addition to a deceptive climate have rendered them the
mere slaves of circumstances； but they exhibit a patience and stolid
endurance which is beyond all praise； and when Cyprus shall belong
absolutely to Great Britain； so that the Cypriotes shall feel that they
are British subjects； they will become the most amenable and contented
people in the Empire。
The usual difficulty exists in passing through this island which is felt
by most English travellers in wild countries。 The sick invariably
assemble； believing that your medical knowledge will produce miraculous
cures； and the lame； halt； and blind besiege you even cripples from
their birth are brought by their hopeful mothers to receive something
from your medicine…chest that will restore them to strength。 It was in
vain that I explained to these afflicted people that spleen…disease
required a long course of medicine； and could not be cured in a day。 It
was equally in vain that I assured them that raw vegetables were
unwholesome for children； and that sea…bathing was invigorating to the
system： they hated bathing； so did the children； and they liked raw
vegetables。 I was obliged to give them some trifle which could neither
do harm nor good； and they went away contented。
I now discovered from the head…men of the village the cause of the wreck
which was lying in the bay。 An Austrian steamer was conveying 1200
Circassians from Constantinople to some port on the coast of Asia Minor；
when the wild horde of emigrants mutinied and threatened to murder the
chief officers。 The captain accordingly ran the vessel ashore upon this
coast； having ordered the engineer to blow up the boilers。
A great number of the mutineers perished in the attempt to land； but the
captain and officers were hospitably received by the people of
Volokalida and forwarded to Famagousta。 The vessel was pierced amidships
by a rock that had completely impaled her； otherwise she might have been
saved and repaired。
We left this village on March 4th； a heavy but welcome shower on the
preceding day having laid the dust and freshened the vegetation。 The
route lay through a hilly and rocky country covered with the usual
evergreens。 We quickly lost our way and arrived at a complete cul…de…sac
in the corner of a narrow swampy valley。 Retracing our steps we met two
men mounted on donkeys； who with extreme civility turned from their own
direction and became our guides。 We passed over a hill of solid
crystallised gypsum； which sparkled in the sun like glass； and after a
march of about ten miles through a lovely country we ascended to the
plateau of Lithrankomi and halted at the monastery。 The priest was an
agreeable； well…mannered man； and as rain had begun to fall he insisted
upon our accepting his invitation to await the arrival of our luggage
under his roof。 We visited his curious old church； which is sadly out of
repair； and the mosaic； of a coarse description； which covered an arched
ceiling； has mostly disappeared。
This was the most agreeable position that I had seen in Cyprus。 A very
extensive plateau about 400 feet above the sea formed a natural terrace
for seven or eight miles； backed by the equally flat hill…tops which
rose only half a mile behind the monastery。 These were covered with the
Pinus Maritima； none of which exceeded twenty feet in height； and
resembled a thriving young plantation in England。 From the flat
pine…covered tableland I had a very beautiful view of the sea on either
side this narrow portion of the island； and of the richly…wooded slopes
both north and south； cut by deep and dark water…riven gorges； with
white cliffs which descended to the shore。 Villages and snow…white
churches lay beneath in all directions； and the crops had a far more
favourable appearance than those of the Messaria； as this portion of the
country had experienced a superior rainfall。
It is much to be regretted that the total absence of roads excludes this
district from general communication。 We were struck by the fantastic
scenery of deep ravines； rocks covered with evergreens of varying
colours； and handsome caroub…trees which would have ornamented an
English park； mulberry…trees were very numerous； but at this season they
were barren of leaves； the only want lay in the absence of oranges and
lemons； which the priest assured me would not thrive in this locality。
For the last two months I had cordially detested Cyprus； but I was now
converted to a belief that some portions of the country were thoroughly
enjoyable； provided that a traveller could be contented with rough fare
and be accustomed to the happy independence of a camp…life with a good
tent and hardy servants。 The temperature was a little too low for
out…door existence； as it averaged 48 degrees at 7 A。M。 and 54 degrees
at 3 P。M。； which is the hottest hour of the day； but we were all well；
and free from colds； the servants had plenty of warm blankets； and the
false floor that I had arranged added greatly to their comfort when
camping upon the sodden ground。
I had become convinced that 〃the man of ability〃 Theodori had deceived
me； and that it would be impossible for the two…wheeled carts； or any
other conveyance； to travel through this country。 Our last two marches
had proved that not only would the delay be serious； but the luggage
would be destroyed by the extreme jolting over rocks and ruts； which had
already injured several of our boxes and broken some useful articles。
Every package seemed to assume an individual vitality and to attack its
neighbour； the sharp…cornered metal boxes endeavoured to tunnel through
the cases of wine and liquors； which in retaliation bumped against and
bruised their antagonists； and a few marches had already caused more
mischief than a twelvemonth's journey by camels。 The priest assured m