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until they formed the horizon on the south…west and west。 The soil was
extremely fertile； but as usual covered with stones； the debris of
decayed limestone of the post…tertiary period； such as is found
throughout the Messaria。 The flat valley below was about thirteen miles
across due north； and was bounded by the Carpas range； which extended to
the east beyond telescopic view。 In our front was a cheering scene；
towards which we hastened with all speed； as sailors rush on deck at the
first cry of 〃Land ahead！〃 we hurried forward at the unusual sight；
〃Green trees！〃 Groves of tall cypress； poplars； and other varieties；
springing from a base of exquisite verdure； formed a rare and
unmistakable landmark。 This was Kuklia； our halting…place； the property
of Monsieur Richard Mattei。
Upon arrival at the village we selected a pretty spot upon elevated
ground which overlooked the entire country； and from which we could
faintly distinguish Famagousta； twelve miles distant。 Upon our right；
within a hundred and twenty yards； was an aqueduct of masonry supported
upon arches； which conveyed a powerful stream to turn a large overshot
water…wheel in the valley immediately below。 The surplus water； after
having worked the mill； was used for the irrigation of extensive
cotton…grounds； beyond which it flowed into the marshes and formed a
swamp。 On the opposite side of this narrow valley were heights and
undulating ground； corresponding to those upon which we stoodall
treeless and cold； while upon our right； close to the aqueduct； was the
bright green of high cultivation； and groves of tall trees which towered
above gardens of oranges and lemons now bending beneath the burden of
yellow fruit。 The village was disappointing； as the houses were of a low
order and much neglected； the lanes were occupied by the usual filth and
noisy dogs； but the agreeable view of bright green fields and real
thriving trees was a delightful change； and exhibited a picture of what
Cyprus might become when developed by capital and enterprise。 While the
camp was being arranged I took my gun and strolled with the dogs into
the narrow valley below the mill。 The waterwheel was at work； and the
people were engaged in cleaning cotton； as the machinery was adapted for
both purposes of grinding corn or of ginning cotton when required。 There
were plenty of snipe in the marshes below the cotton…fields； for which
rushes； low bushes of tamarisk and other shrubs； afforded excellent
cover。 I quickly bagged two couple and my first Francolin partridge； and
was just in time； before dark； to assist the dinner。
At sunrise on the following morning the view was interesting； as the sea
glittered brightly to the south； while the bold rocks and wall…like
sides of the Carpas mountains stood out in sharply…defined edges and
varying colours on the north。 To the east we looked over the broadest
portion of a dead flat created by the deposit from inundations of the
eccentric river Pedias； which； although dry at the present time；
periodically floods the country and converts the valley into an
extensive lake。 It was about twenty miles across this broad flat to the
important town of Trichomo； and the ruins of Salamis were discernible
with the telescope about midway； close to the seashore。
There was an extent of several miles of marsh around the heights of
Kuklia； in some portions of which cotton was cultivated in considerable
quantities； but I was surprised at the inferiority of the quality； and
at the apparent weakness of the plants where the water…supply was
plentiful。 On closer examination I observed great carelessness in the
absence of drainage； the plants were allowed to perish in stagnant
water； which soured the land。 Upon a longer acquaintance with M。
Mattei's farm； I found the same fault generally。 Many portions of
valuable land were chilled and rendered fruitless by too much water；
which remained in the ground for want of the most simple drains。 I shot
plenty of snipe in the fields of barley； although they were not supposed
to be under irrigation。 M。 Mattei is well known as the largest landed
proprietor in Cyprus； and the representative of agricultural progress；
but his bailiff at Kuklia could hardly have expected a prize at an
exhibition； although every facility exists for creating a perfect
model…farm。 The springs which supply the water…power were discovered in
three different positions about three miles distant。 The usual chains of
wells （already described） were sunk； and at a convenient spot they
converged into a single line； until a lower level introduced the channel
to the surface。 The water was then received into a stone aqueduct； and
led with great judgment in a half circle beneath the higher ground which
was occupied by the village； at a level which not only enabled it to
command the extensive flats beneath； but eventually passed beyond the
village； and turned an overshot wheel of more than twenty feet diameter。
This great work was at the sole expense of the proprietor。 After a
considerable outlay and perfect success in the engineering； it is to be
regretted that greater care is not bestowed upon the land； although the
gardens contain a mass of fruit…trees； large groves of figs； and relieve
the eye by their cheerful aspect； only enough has been attained to
exhibit the great power that exists for producing a still greater
abundance under proper administration。
Having examined the neighbourhood thoroughly； I changed the position of
our camp and halted a mile and a half up the aqueduct on the higher side
of the village； at a point where the water first issued from its
subterranean channel into the conduit of masonry and cement。 We thus
secured a supply in its original purity； before it should be
contaminated by any washing of clothes in passing through the village in
an open channel； which from its convenience offered an irresistible
invitation。 Such a tempting stream； running through a canal upon a broad
wall of masonry open to all comers would； in any European country； have
been the natural resort of boys； who would have revelled in the freedom
of nakedness and the delight of bathing in forbidden waters； but in
Cyprus I have never once seen a person washing himself in public。 This
is not from any sense of indecent exposure； but from their absolute
dislike to the operation。 I had subsequently in my service a remarkably
fine man who was always carefully dressed； and in fact was quite a dandy
in exterior； but during the hot weather when he on one occasion saw my
Abyssinian Amarn swimming in the sea； he declared that； 〃rather than
bathe； he would prefer to cut his throat。〃
I had arranged the camp close to a hawthorn…tree； which was already
green in its first spring leaves； and had formed blossom…buds that would
open in a few days。 There were a considerable number of the same species
scattered in the vicinity； but they had been defaced by the mutilations
usual throughout Cyprus。 If a man requires a stick or a piece of wood
for any purpose； he hacks unsparingly at the first tree； whether it
belongs to him or to another proprietor。 The ground sloped gradually to
the lowest level of the