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of the dead in Cyprus。 For several centuries the tombs had been
excavated and pillaged in the hopes of discovering objects of value。 The
first robbers were those who were simply influenced by the gold and
other precious ornaments which were accompaniments of the corpse； the
modern despoilers were resurrectionists who worked with the object of
supplying any museums that would purchase the funeral spoil。
It is a curious contradiction in our ideas of propriety； which are
measured apparently by uncertain intervals of time； that we regard as
felonious a man who disinters a body and steals a ring from the fingers
of the corpse a few days after burial in an English churchyard； but we
honour and admire an individual who upon a wholesale scale digs up old
cemeteries and scatters the bones of ancient kings and queens； princes；
priests； and warriors； and having collected the jewellery； arms； and
objects of vanity that were buried with them； neglects the once honoured
bones； but sells the gold and pottery to the highest bidder。 Sentiment
is measured and weighed by periods； and as grief is mitigated by time；
so also is our respect for the dead； even until we barter their ashes
for gold as an honourable transaction。
The most important object of antiquity that has been recently discovered
by excavations at Dali is the statue of Sargon； king of Assyria； 707
B。C。； to whom the Cypriote kings paid tribute。 This was sent to the
Berlin Museum by Mr。 Hamilton Lang； and is described in his interesting
work upon Cyprus during the term of several years' consulship。
The ruins of ancient cities offer no attraction to the traveller in this
island； as nothing is to be seen upon the surface except disjointed
stones and a few fallen columns of the commonest description。 The
destruction has been complete； and if we wish to make discoveries； it is
necessary to excavate to a considerable depth； but as all such
explorations are prohibited； the subject remains fruitless。 General di
Cesnola； whose work upon the antiquities of Cyprus must remain
unrivalled； describes the tombs as from forty to fifty…five feet beneath
the present surface； and even those great depths had not secured them
from disturbance； as many that he opened had already been ransacked by
former explorers。
On the 7th of February the thermometer at eight A。M。 was only 40
degrees。 The oxen were put into their yokes； and after a discussion
concerning the best route to Lefkosia； it was agreed that Georgi should
be the responsible guide； as he was a native of the country。
When travelling on horseback through the district of Messaria there is
no difficulty of roads； provided you know the country thoroughly； as you
may canter； in the absence of enclosures； in any direction you may
please； but the Cypriotes have an awkward habit of leading their
watercourses straight through any route that may exist for wheeled
conveyances； and you suddenly arrive at a deep ditch and high bank；
which block the thoroughfare。 Georgi had assured us that no difficulty
would delay us between Dali and the high road from Larnaca to Lefkosia；
which we should intersect about half…way between the two termini。
Instead of this； after travelling for a couple of miles along a good
hardened track； we arrived at a series of trenches which effectually
stopped all progress。 Each van had a pickaxe and shovel； therefore we
all set to work in rapid relief of each other to level the obstructions；
and by this hard exercise the thermometer appeared to rise quickly from
the low temperature of the morning。 The oxen were good； and by dint of
our united exertions in heaving the wheels and pushing behind； we
dragged the vans through the soft ground that had filled the ditches；
and then slowly travelled across ploughed fields and alternate plains of
a hard surface covered with abominable thistles。
We passed on our left a large farm that exhibited a wonderful contrast
to the general barrenness of the country。 The fields were green with
young wheat and barley； and numerous sakyeeahs or cattle…wheels for
raising water supplied the means of unfailing irrigation。 I believe this
property belonged to Mr。 Mattei； and there could be no stronger example
of the power that should be developed throughout this island to render
it independent of precarious seasons。 It is a simple question of a first
outlay that is absolutely necessary to ensure the crops。 Throughout the
barren plain of Messaria water exists in unfailing quantity within a few
yards of the parched surfacethus at the same time that the crops are
perishing from the want of rain； the roots are actually within a few
feet of the desired supply。 The cattle…wheels of Cyprus are very
inferior to the sakyeeah of Egypt； but are arranged upon a similar
principle； by a chain of earthenware pots or jars upon a rope and wheel；
which； revolving above a deep cistern； ascend from the depth below； and
deliver the water into a trough or reservoir upon the surface。 From the
general reservoir small watercourses conduct the stream to any spot
desired。 This is the most ancient system of artificial irrigation by
machinery； and it is better adapted for the requirements of this country
than any expensive European inventions。 As I shall devote a chapter
specially to the all…important question of irrigation； I shall postpone
further remarks upon the cattle…wheel； but the farm in question which
formed a solitary green oasis in the vast expanse of withered surface
was a sufficient example of the necessity； and of the fruitful result of
this simple and inexpensive method。 It is a mere question of outlay； and
the government must assist the cultivators by loans for the special
erection of water…wheels。 But of this more hereafter。
At about six miles from Dali we struck the road between Larnaca and
Lefkosia （or Nicosia）。 The newly…established mail…coach with four horses
passed us； with only one passenger。 We met it again on the following
day； with a solitary unit； and it appeared that the four horses on many
occasions had no other weight behind them than the driver and the
letters。 With this instance of inertia before their eyes； certain
lunatics （or WISE CONTRACTORS） suggested the necessity of a railway for
twenty…eight miles to connect the two capitals！ The mail had an
ephemeral existence； and after running fruitlessly to and fro for a few
months； it withdrew altogether； leaving an abundant space in Cyprus for
my two vans； without the slightest chance of a collision upon the new
highway； as there were no other carriages on the roads； excepting the
few native two…wheeled carts。
We halted five miles from Lefkosia； where a new stone bridge was in
process of construction and was nearly completed。 We had already passed
a long and extremely narrow Turkish bridge across the river about four
miles in our rear。 By pacing I made the new bridge twenty…nine feet； the
same width as the road； and I could not help thinking that a much less
expensive commencement would have been sufficient to meet the
requirements of the country。 In Cyprus the rainfall is generally slight
and the earth is tenacious； and in dry weather exceedingly hard；