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Larnaca； about eight miles distant from the first head。 The British
authorities propose to substitute iron pipes for the present aqueduct；
but it is to be hoped that the new scheme will be an independent and
additional work； that will in no way interfere with the important gift
of Cheflik Pacha； which has existed for nearly two centuries； and which；
if kept in repair； will supply the necessary volume。
CHAPTER III。
ROUTE TO NICOSIA。
Having proved that any further progress west was quite impracticable by
vans； I returned to the new main road from Larnaca； and carefully
avoiding it； we kept upon the natural surface by the side drain； and
travelled towards Dali； the ancient Idalium。
The thermometer at 8 A。M。 showed 37 degrees； and the wind was keen。 The
road lay through a most desolate country of chalk hills completely
barren； diversified occasionally by the ice…like crystals of gypsum
cropping out in huge masses。 In one of the most dreary spots that can be
imagined the eye was relieved by a little flat…topped hut on the right
hand； which exhibited a sign； 〃The Dewdrop Inn。〃 The name was hardly
appropriate； as the earth appeared as though neither dew nor rain had
blessed the surface； but I believe that whisky was represented by the
〃Dewdrop；〃 and that the word was intended to imply an invitation；
〃Do…drop…in。〃 Of course we dropped in； being about an hour in advance of
our vans； and I found the landlord most obliging； and a bottle of Bass's
pale ale most refreshing in this horrible…looking desert of chalk and
thistles that had become a quasi…British colony。 This unfortunate man
and one or two partners were among those deluded victims who had
sacrificed themselves to the impulse of our first occupation； upon the
principle that 〃the early bird gets the worm。〃 Instead of getting on；
the partners went off； and left the representative of the 〃Dewdrop〃 in a
physical state of weakness from attacks of fever； and the good
industrious man with little hope of a golden future。
Passing on after a conversation with our landlord； which did not cheer
me so much as the pale ale； we continued through the same desolate
country for about two miles； and then turned off on the left hand
towards Dali。 We passed through a narrow valley of several hundred acres
planted in vineyards； and we counted four olive…trees； the first green
objects or signs of trees that we had seen since Larnaca！ We then
continued through white barren hills for another two miles； and
descended a steep hill； halting for the night upon hard flat gypsum rock
opposite a village named 〃Lauranchina；〃 above the dry bed of a torrent；
twelve miles from Larnaca。
On the following morning； after a slight shower； we started for Dali。
The narrow valleys were more or less cultivated with vines； and about
three miles from the halting…place we entered the fertile plain of Dali。
This is about six miles long； by one in width； highly cultivated； with
the river flowing through the midst。 As far as we could see in a direct
line groves of olives； vineyards； and ploughed land； diversified by
villages； exhibited the power of water in converting sterility into
wealth。
I always make a rule that the halting…place shall be at a considerable
distance from a village or town for sanitary reasons； as the environs
are generally unclean。 All travellers are well aware that their servants
and general entourage delight in towns or villages； as they discover
friends； or make acquaintances； and relieve the tedium of the journey；
therefore an antagonistic influence invariably exists upon the question
of a camping…ground。 It is accordingly most difficult to believe the
statements of your interpreter： he may have old friends in a town to
which you believe him to be a stranger； he may have the remains of an
old love； and a wish to meet again； or he may have a still more powerful
attraction in the remembrance of an agreeable cafe where he can refresh
himself with liquor； revel in cigarettes； and play at dominoes。 It is
therefore necessary to be upon your guard when approaching a town； which
should be looked upon as the enemy's camp。
My amiable bullock…driver； the big Georgi； had always assured me that
〃game abounded in the immediate neighbourhood of Dali；〃 of course I knew
that the happy hunting…ground contained some special interest for
himself。 Upon arrival on the outskirts I ordered the vans to pass on the
outside of the town； and I would seek a camping…place up…stream。 Instead
of this I was assured that we should pass through the town； and find a
lovely grove of olive…trees by the river…side； the perfection of a
halting…place。 For the first time I now discovered that Georgi's wife
and family lived in Dali； and that he was not such a fool as he looked。
In a few minutes we were descending a lane so narrow that the gipsy van
only cleared the walls of the houses on either side by three or four
inches。 This lane had been paved centuries ago with stones of all sizes；
from a moderate grindstone to that of a football。 When people had wished
to build a new house； they had taken up a few stones to make a
foundation； the street was a series of pitfalls filled with mud and
filth； including miniature ponds of manure…coloured water。 The surface
appeared impassable； the projecting water…spouts from the low roofs
stuck out like the gnarled boughs of trees。 Here was a pretty mess！all
because Georgi's wife was in town。 It was impossible for anything larger
than a perambulator to turn； and as the springs yielded to the uneven
ground； the van bumped against the walls of the houses and threatened
destruction。 〃Halt！〃 was the only word； and as the drag…shoe was on the
wheel； we stopped。 At this moment of difficulty a priest and some old
women appeared with earthen vessels smoking with burning olive leaves；
they immediately passed the smoke beneath the nostrils of the oxen； then
around the van； and lastly ourselves。 At the same time some good young
women threw orange…flower water over my wife and myself from pretty
glass vases with narrow necks as a sign of welcome。 The incense of the
priests was supposed to avert the 〃evil…eye〃 from the gipsy van and our
party。 I felt much obliged for the good intention； but I did not mind
the 〃evil eye〃 so much as the water…spouts。 In my experience of
travelling I never met with such kind and courteous people as the
inhabitants of Cyprus。 The Dali population had already blocked the
narrow streets from curiosity at our arrival； and soon understanding the
cause of our dilemma； they mounted the housetops and tore off the
obstructing water…spouts； where these projections were too strong； they
sawed them off close to the eaves。 A crowd of men pushed the van from
behind； and guided the oxen； while others assisted by digging up the
large paving…stones that would have tilted it against the house…walls。
In this manner we arrived without serious accident upon the bank of the
river which ran through the town。 There was an open space here which was
crowded with women and girls； who； with feminine curiosity； had
assembled to see the English lady。 Among these was the prettiest young
woman I have seen