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ne has heard ofthat has dimly lived in the mind like a dreamand now to see it realised in fact。 It suddenly starts into life； as it were； surrounded by its natural associations。 I hate your professional guides and their constant chatter。 Much better to come with a mind prepared with some history to fall back upon； and thus be enabled to compare the present with the past； the living with the dead。
I climbed up some of the hills surrounding Genoafor it is a city of ups and downs。 I wandered about the terraced palaces surrounded by orange groves and surveyed the fortified heights by which the place is surrounded。 What exquisite bits of scenery there were to sketch； what a rich combination of nature and art！ And what a world of colour； with the clear blue sea in the distance！ Altogether； that one day at Genoathough but a succession of glimpses formed a bright spot in my life； that neither time nor distance can dim or tarnish。
I returned to the harbour two hours before the steamer was to leave。 To commemorate my visit； I mounted the top of the paddle…box； took out my sketch book； and made a panoramic view of Genoa as seen from the harbour。 I did it in pencil at the time； and afterwards filled it up with ink。 When the pages of the sketch book had been joined together the panoramic view extended to about eight feet long。 The accuracy of the detail； as well as the speed with which the drawing was done； were perhaps rather creditable to the draughtsmanat least so my artistic friends were pleased to tell me。 Indeed； many years after； a friend at court desired to submit it to the highest Lady in the land； and； being herself an artist； she expressed herself as highly gratified with the performance。
＇Image＇ A monk on board
The next station the steamer touched at was Leghorn。 As the vessel was not to start until next day； there was sufficient time for me to run up to Pisa。 There I spent a delightful day principally in wandering about that glorious group of buildings situated so near to each other the Cathedral； the Baptistery； the Campo Santo； and the Campanile or Leaning Tower。 What interested me most at the Cathedral was the two bronze lamps suspended at the end of the nave； which suggested to the mind of Galileo the invention of the pendulum。 Thousands had seen the lamps swinging before them； but he alone would know 〃the reason why。〃 The one swung at a different rate as compared with the other； being the result of the chains being hung of different lengths。 Hence Galileo's discovery of the principle or Law of the Pendulum。 This paved the way for Newton's law of gravitationone of the grandest laws of the universe。
Some of the finest works of Andrea del Sarto； son of the Tailor； are found here。 Indeed； the works of that great painter are little known out of Pisa and Florence。 I was reluctant to tear myself away from Pisa； but the Ercolano could not wait； and I was back in good time； and soon under weigh。
The next port we touched at was Civita Vecchia； one of the most dreary places that can be imagined； though at one time an Etruscan city； and afterwards the port of Trajan。 I did not land； as there were some difficulties in the way of passports。 We steamed on； and next morning when I awoke we were passing the coast of Ischia。 We could scarcely see the island for a thick mist had over…spread the sea。 Naples was still hidden from our sight； but over the mist I could observe the summit of Vesuvius vomiting forth dense clouds of white smoke。 The black summit of the crater appeared floating in the clear blue sky。 But the heat of the sun shortly warmed the mist； and it floated away like a curtain。
＇Image＇ Distant view of Vesuvius
A grand panorama then lay before us。 Naples looked bright and magnificent under the sunlight。 The sea was so smooth that the buildings and towers and convents and spires were reflected in the water。 On our left lay the Bay of Baiae； with its castles and temples and baths； dating from the days of the Roman Republic。 To the right lay Castellamare； Sorrento； and the island of Capri。 But the most prominent object was Vesuvius in front； with its expanding cloud of white smoke over the landscape。 On landing； I took up my quarters at the Hotel Victoria。 I sallied forth to take my first hasty view of the Chiaia； the streets； and the principal buildings。 But； in accordance with my motto of 〃Duty first； pleasure second；〃 I proceeded to attend to the business respecting which I had visited Naples。 That； however； was soon disposed of。 In a few days I was able to attend to pleasure。 I made my way to the Museo Borbonico； now called the National Museum。 I found it a rich mine of precious treasures； consisting of Greek； Etruscan； and Roman antiquities of every description。 Not the least interesting part of the Museum is the collection of marbles； pictures； and articles of daily use； dug from the ruins of the buried city of Pompeii。 Every spare hour that I could command was occupied in visiting and revisiting this wonderful Museum。
Herculaneum and Pompeii were also visited； but； more than all； the crater of Vesuvius。 During my visit the mountain was in its normal state。 I mounted the volcanic ashes with which it is strewn； and got to the top。 There I could look down into the pit from which the clouds of steam are vomited forth。 I went down to the very edge of the crater； stood close to its mouth； and watched the intermittent up…rushing of the blasts of vapour and sulphureous gases。 To keep clear of these I stood to the windward side； and was thus out of harm's way。
What struck me most was the wonderfully brilliant colours of the rugged lava rocks forming the precipitous cliffs of the interior walls of the crater。 These brilliant colours were the result of the sublimation and condensation on their surfaces of the combinations of sulphur and chloride of iron； quite as bright as if they had been painted with bright red； chrome； and all the most brilliant tints。 Columns of all manner of chemical vapours ascended from the clefts and deep cracks； at the bottom of which I clearly saw the bright hot lava。
I rolled as big a mass of cool lava as I could to the edge of the crater and heaved it down； but I heard no sound。 Doubtless the depth was vast； or it might probably have fallen into the molten lava； and thus made no noise。 On leaving this horrible pit edge； I tied the card of the Bridgewater Foundry to a bit of lava and threw it in； as token of respectful civility to Vulcan； the head of our craft。
I had considerably more difficulty in clambering up to the top edge of the crater than I had in coming down。 Once or twice； indeed； I was half choked by the swirls of sulphureous and muriatic acid vapour that environed me before I could reach the upper edge。 I sat down in a nook； though it was a very hot one； and made a sketch or two of the appearance of the crater。 But I feel that it is quite beyond my power either by pen or pencil； to convey an idea of the weird unearthly aspect which the funnel…shaped crater of Vesuvius presented at that time。 An eruption of unusual violence had occurred shortly before I saw it。 Great rounded blocks of lava had been thrown high into the